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Found 8 results

  1. Help please as I am ready to install the rear glass. 1. Is a sealer still needed? If so what type, silicone, etc 2. The rubber gasket. Do I place the two ends meeting at the top, bottom, side?? Thanks all.
  2. we are looking for a rear window for a 1949 p17. we have never found one. we thought you may know of something else that would work before we end up using plexiglass or a trashbag.
  3. The 51 is coming along nicely. We just cleaned up the old busted out glass from the bottom channels and got it ready for the new side glass kit that I bought from Balls Vintage Glass in Florida. I got a quote for $1200 from a glass shop here in Arizona that specializes in vintage installs and I decided to do the job solo. So I got the mechanisms greased and its smooth. I fitted the glass in the lower channels and because I left the original C channel in the car (glad I did now) the windows are fairly tight when rolled up. So here's the question, the old sweeps were stapled in. Is there an alternative to new staples through metal? Also, I am hoping to use adhesive for the C channel on top if that seems like a good idea. Any guidance is welcomed. Thanks.
  4. I haven't done any work to my vent windows or driver and passenger glass yet so before I take everything apart, I want to post some questions that some of you guys who have done this work before can answer. Q1. I'm wondering how the window sweeper gets installed. I bought an 8 foot piece of it from Roberts (T66B). DCM has it in stock too RW-175), but the parts manual picture on page 492 doesn't use the term "window sweeper" anywhere so I'm not exactly sure where it goes or what holds it in place? Q2. How is the steel channel (23-09-52) that fits along the bottom of the side window glass cushioned from the glass? My originals look like a rubber packing or filler of some kind is wedged in between the glass and the channel. Is there a source for this filler? Q3. What cushions the vent window glass from the frame (23-64-49)? My vent windows have a rubber filler material between the frame and the glass. Is there a source for that? Q4. There's also a rubber filler material between the division bar (23-64-6) and the side glass. Is there a source for this stuff too?
  5. Hello everyone. New here. Name's Jason. Looking for some info on swapping out the vents on my 53 b4b for some one piece glass windows. I haven't ever tried doing something like this, but I like the look of the single glass and my vents are broken and the rubbers are not really there anymore. I figure it would be easier to just put one piece of glass in there. My concern was finding the parts to do this. I didn't know what I would need outside of the regulator for the one piece glass options. Im assuming I would have to change those out of course. Any and all information on how to do this and where to find some parts is helpful. I do appreciate it. Im looking to get back to work on this here soon and need to get all the parts together to get started. I have seen some places through searching the web to buy parts from, but Im sure i haven't found them all. Thanks in advance for any and all help.
  6. I have a 1937 Plymouth and I need to replace the rubber seal on the crankout windshield. I don't have the rubber yet, but I want to get a head start on learning how to do it. Also wondering if there is a rubber seal on the inside seating surface of the windshield frame as well as around the frame/glass itself. I can't seem to locate anything. It seems that there should be something there like a U channel. While on the subject of glass, how do you replace the side glass seals? Is it just the U channel and sweeper involved? What is the proper way to mount the glass frame rollers to the regulator track? Anybody come up with hardware-store supplies to replace the U channel at a fraction of the cost?
  7. Hello all, as I got here lot's of great tips I maybe have one for you. When I bought my Dodge, the speedometer and clock were really destroyed. The printed surface was deteriorated and also the printed letter of the clock and speedometr face dropped off. When I decide to restore it I tried several ways like screen printing, or find somebody who does this professional but it would all be too complicated or to expancive. As a result I will show the way I did it maybe it helps somebody. At first, I took the old clock face and layed it on the scanner of PC. After scanning I reconstructet the letters in Adobe Illustrator to create vector grafics. I made two layers, one for the white print and one for the black. I gave both files to a printing shop to plot too masking films. Better make two or three of each, you will use them propably. At first pull of release paper and stick foil to the glass. I let the glass cut in a local shop. Markings on the foil help to find the exact position Now pull off transfer foil and paint the letters and stripes. After a few tests I use color for scale models. It adheres better as glass paint, but don't ask me why. Because of the flat surface paint doesn't stick very good to glass, you have to pull of the masking film before color ist completely dry. Sometimes, if the color was too dry or it doesn't stick well to the glass, the edges of some letters are not straight. If you have a second masking film cut out the letters and stick it to the exact position to repaint the edges. If the first color is done, you have to make the black outline. That is even harder because the line is smaller then one Millimeter (sorry for the metric system :-) I found out, that you can't use the complete masking foil to stick over the white because of two reasons. 1. If you pull of the release paper, the masking foil seems to stretch a little bit. It's not much but it's enough that the tin lines won't fit 2. The masking film will rip of the thin white lines. To avoid that I took small pieces of masking film and normal paper and stick it over the thin white lines. Then I took the whole glass and glued it against a window with masking tape. This helps you to position the masking foil for the numbers because when the numbers are still on the transfer foil you really cant't look though it and it's difficult to find the right place. If you're finished, it lookes like that: Now I took black enamel paint for the outlines. Check from the other side if the lines look good and pull off masking foil quick befor color gets too dry. The finished clock face looks pretty nice. On the first look, you can't differ from the original. When I had a closer look to my old one, it wasn't sooooo exact either. Hope this will help others who have the same problem. The background I also made on Illustrator. I printed the pattern on a foil and the golden foil is aluminium foil to make christmas stars from a hobby shop. I layed it on a ripped plastic surface that I found on an old plastic casing and pressed the foil on the plastic with a rubber roll. Then I took glue and sticked it to the foil with the pattern. This really is just a compromise, because the ribbed structure ist not so fine as original and also not so exact, but it's doing it's job. Also the car istn't perfect the clock might ot be perfect too. Here in Germany we have to show Kilometers on speedometer. Normaly you have to glue stickers on the screen. When I was rebuliding the speedometer face I changed the letters into Kilometers :-) I did this to my 42 Dodge an still have the files. If anyone ist interested I could send them the EPS-Files. Hope this helps Kai
  8. I have original glass in my 1947 d24. The windshield and door glass will all eventually need replacing, but it is low on my priority list. With that being said, my driver door window has been rolled down basically since I got the car in my garage and it seems that the stress of opening and closing the doors has created a new huge set of cracks on the driver window. Is there any recommendations on slowing this inevitable process? I decided to keep the windows rolled up from now on, as I think they'll have less free play and won't wiggle quite as much. But any other advice would be helpful.
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