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Ketil

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  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1948 B1b Truck

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  • Location
    Norway
  • Interests
    Cars...

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  • Occupation
    Selfemployd Car mecanic

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  1. Close, Norway. Making a small camper for it. Wife says its the most stupid thing i have ever done...haha...If i really beleave she is going to spend a single night in the bed of that truck i can dream on... Hehe… Guess mye and the dog will have many Nice trips on Our own...
  2. How many are left of the 300000 they build? Mine are among the first i belive. In California the serienumbers started on 9227001 so i asume my 9228033 are the 1032 that was build? I Guess thats why my framenumber are on the very front of the frame, between the fender and bumper and not furter back like most seem to have. Was the Production in Detroit started at the same time? Btw engine code is T1429139 . Did a lot of work on the truck when i bought it last year only nedds minor work this Winter.
  3. The inspection went fine and i now have fresh, norwegan plates for it... The old CA plates look much nicer though... Removed 2 leaves on each side in the front and 3 on each side on the rear. It dropped less than 2" but rides much nicer. Not quite a Cadillac but you dont bounce around inside the cabin when you hit a bump anymore... Replaced the king pins. They came out without any problems, like everything else on this truck. All bolts when i removed leafsprings altso broke loose with out any problems. Tie rods are fine, some play in the steeringbox but not too bad. Has 1/4 " toe no, drives great. A teaspoon of cinnamon cured som minor leaks in the radiator. Have used it quite alot. Brakes are getting better and better. 90% of the linings apply the drums now. A few more miles and another adjustment they should be 100%.
  4. Great idea! Looking forward to see it finished.
  5. The springs for the cluch and brake goes to a small bracket on the transm.
  6. First proper test drive today! Wooop wooop! Havnt done the front end yet but steering is still quite good.Goes stright. Engine pulls fine, breakes are getting better and better. Drivetrain was pretty silent. No vibrations from propeller shaft etc.Some more work on the wiring and lights and it should be ready for inspection. Most anoying is probably the very harsh suspension. Anyone tryed out how much it will drop end soften bye removing some of the leafsprings? Grease or some other lubricant between the springs will probably help as well for a little while...
  7. Hehe, thats true. But fortunatly i can use the same number on the Norwegan plate. You can chose as long as it is not taken. Got the New brakes on the car. And it stops...at least if Your a little patient... Will take a couple of small trips and then do the adjusting presedure over again. Looked some more trying to find the Engine number that is supposed to be stamped on the left framerail near the rear kickup. Did find a 6 figure number With out a letter first, so dont think its it. Will look further tomorrow.
  8. Think i will put on the Gangster cap. And remove the pushbar.But cant quite make up my mind...Got the wipers working, and all the breakparts, kingpinkit etc arrived to day. Hopfully for a proper testdrive this weekend. I thaught i bougt Complete Wheel sylinders but only got the rebuild kit. Managed to get out the pistons by installing a grease fitting where the bleeder screw is. Bore looks good, only needed a little honing to be rustfree
  9. Dont think it took more than 1 quart. Where there is paint underneath it becomes quite shiny, but in the Places With only steel it gets pretty flat apperance. Atleast With only one layer. I Only steamcelaned the Whole truck a couple of times and lett it dry properly. took 48 houres before it was completly dry, but prettycold here...
  10. Im hoping having it title and registered will go smoothly. Being a California car the VIN number on the title is the engine numner and not the Serial number. The Serial number in the a pillar matches the Number i found on the very front of the left framerail. But since the original engine have been replaced the number in the title isnt anywere on the car... Could make problems... Hopfully the engine number is stamped on the left, rear of the frame. If not, i might have to get a bulid sheet form the Heritage center. Guess that paper will have both engine, and Serial/frame number . THe truck is #1033 build in California so its a early one-
  11. Ovatrol has been sold here in Europe for generations. CAn use it one Wood, steal etc.They probably have something simular in the US. Yes you kan mix it With Paint. Its quite thin and penetrates well into the rusted steel.You can spray, brush or roll it on. In this Pictures its not dry yet and is very shiny. You can see the before and after. For the frame and undercariage i will use Fluidfilm (Lanolin). Its probably overkill becouse its not gonne see that much rain anyway.And no salt or winterdriving on this old lady. But i dont have to feel bad it it sees rain or water. The floorboards and metal in the bed was gone so i installed som Boards intended for Porches. Not correct, but workes just fine and will last for "ever". BTW, have anyone seen a simular Pushbar? Is it home made or factory? Dealer installed maybe?
  12. Thank you. I was planning on removing one leafspring at each wheel to make it a little bit lower and softer. Removing the 3. form the top will probbably drop it 1 inch or 2? Guess many of you have done that? Dont want it to low. But im not gonna carry any heavy loads so dont need the stiff ride. Might put on the Shelby Slot mags or some other og the old style mags. Dont want anything modern looking. Concidering widening the original rims so i can still use the original hubcaps but have a little beefier tyres. If i put on mags i need longer wheelbolts. Is that easy to find? Maybe easyer to swap them out With lugstuds? The wiring is ofcorse old and the isolation isnt to good... Will buy or build a New one next Winter, for now im just planning on adding a 40 or 50 amper maxifuse on the wire between the starter and ammeter. Reduses the fire hazard a little bit . I will hook up the turnindicators as well.
  13. Hi Folks. Fell in love with this Truck at the Goodguys Autumn Get together in Plesanton CA and shipped it back to Norway. It arrived a week ago. Pretty unmolested end rustfree. Only rust is battery tray . Have made a new one. A plessure to work on, every bolt breaks loose without heat or rustpenetrator, all the lube fittings work. Made a new floor in the bed. Have new Mastersylinder and have made all new brakelines. Waiting for the rest of the brake parts and im ready for a proper test drive. Engine turns out to be from a 50 Plymouth but purres like a kitten. With rebuild carb and Petronix it starts and runs quite Nice. Altso waiting for kinkbolt kit and tierods. Im keeping the original Paint. (or whats left of it). Have painted it with Ovatrol, a rustpreventing Clear coat.
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