Merle Coggins

Years ago I got mine at Napa, but I’m not seeing them listed on napaonline now. I’ve also seen them on Rockauto, but I can’t seem to find them now. However, DCM Classics does show them. https://dcmclassics.com/brake-parts/384-br-261-48-wheel-cylinders-half-size.html

Yes, that's likely the casting date of the case. I've never seen a model ID listed for these transmissions. They're just New Process 4 speeds. I believe the later version is refered to as the NP420. Non-synchro vs. synchronized transmissions refers to how the sliding gears function. In the early spur gear, non-synchronized transmissions the gears have straight cut teeth and there are no synchronizers to aid in shifting. With these transmissions you need to learn the art of double clutching your shifts. The later, synchronized, version was introduced into the Dodge trucks in '51. This transmission has helical cut gear teeth for quieter operation and syncronizers on 3rd and 4th gears for easier shifting. Pretty much all modern transmissions are of this synchronized type now. Another way to know the difference, and how I identified this one, is that on the earlier spur gear units the PTO drive was ahead of the fill/level plug whereas the later, synchronized, units have the PTO moved rearward with the fill/level plug towards the front.

Mark pretty much said what I was thinking. I guess great minds do think alike, except when it comes to sports teams. ?

That looks like an early New Process, spur gear (not synchronized) 4 speed. And yes, the gizmo hanging off the right side is a PTO.

I used my motorcycle jack, similar to that one, when I pulled my trans to replace the clutch many years ago. It worked fairly well. It doesn't have swivel casters under the jack carriage, so it's not as maneuverable as a true tranny jack, but all I needed was to go straight back and down, then up and back in. It worked fine for that.

I believe Mercedes has a 5 cylinder diesel in some of their cars. I also know that Volvo uses a 5 cylinder engine. They’re more common than you would think.

I usually use Autolite plugs in my truck. I’m a big fan of NGK too. That’s all I use in my motorcycles. I would stay away from Champions. I’ve heard too many bad reviews on them.

I think If I had a ‘new’ pump again I would stake the pin. I’ve seen where guys have used a center punch on the housing around the pin to squeeze it tighter and it still came out. I would probably support one end of the pin and strike the other end with a center punch to mushroom the end. Repeat on the other end. This would secure it much better.

It’s a Truxedo roll up cover. They’ll do customer covers. There is a download link on their web site to get the order form. Just measure up the length and width, fill out the form, and submit it for a quote, or to order. https://truxedo.com/custom-covers The side rails are designed for modern beds, where they get clamped onto the inner lip of the bed. As we don’t have that option on these trucks I bolted the side rails to the bed sides. At the front and back I hid the bolts inside the stake pockets. Then I added 2 more through the middle, using carriage bolts with painted heads. They blend in and are barely noticeable unless you are looking for them. And they are sort of hidden by the bed flare/bed roll too. I actually did a post on this back when I installed it. I did a quick search and found the thread.

There are commercial engine degreasers sold at your local parts stores. Gunk is one brand that has something like this. They all pretty much work the same. Get the engine warmed up, spray the degreaser, let it break down the grease, hose it off... lather, rinse, repeat... until it’s squeaky clean. Just be cautious of getting your distributor or generator too wet. They’ll tolerate a little water, but I woulnd’t want to give them a direct spray with water. Once you’re all done you’ll need to relube the distributor and generator oil cups to displace any water that got in there.

3/4 ton beds are 90” (7’ 6”), at least for the B-Series. I would guess that carried over into the C-Series. I was visiting my Aunt and Uncle a few years back and he needed to transport a piece of soffit panel to a house that he was building. It wouldn’t fit in his van so I offered to take it in my truck. We tried it with the tail gate down, which supported it better, but there wasn’t a good way to secure it tight to the floor. We ended up propping it up across the top of the tail gate and hopped the wind wound’t fold it over. It survived the trip. It’s nice to have a “heavy hauler” to help out family... ?

A vacuum leak will also make for poor idling. Check for loose manifold nuts, loose carb mount nuts, bad vacuum hoses/connections.

The 218 truck engine may only have a 4 bolt crank flange that wouldn’t work if you have Fluid Drive on the car. The truck bell housing and 3 speed are different than those used in the cars.

In my opinion a rebuilt pump, with a kit from Then and Now Automotive, is far superior to any new pumps on the market. I've heard, and seen, to many horror stories of fulcrum pins coming out of new pumps. This won't be the case with a kit from Then and Now. http://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/

I believe your Coronet would have a 230 engine. Have you verified the truck engines CID? 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks used the 218. Only the 1 ton trucks used the 230. If the truck engine is a 230 it should adapt to your car's bell housing and Fluid Drive without any issues. Does the car have a 3 speed, or is it Gyro-Matic?

You seem to be focused on an ignition issue. Have you verified that you are getting full throttle travel? Have you checked the carb for possible blocked main jet, or sticking metering needle plunger?

Nice find. Even has a hitch so you can pull tandems. Now you gotta find another one. ?

A non-synchro transmission isn't too picky. Pick up some good 85W-140, or similar, and go with it.

That's cool, guys. I was just down that way recently. I was in Monroe last week, doing some work with Green County Hwy Dept., at their shop. And Yesterday I had to make a run down to Argyle to visit a customer. That event in Blue Mounds sounds interesting. I'd probably thinking about making the drive down there with my truck, but it's looking like I'll be teaching motorcycle school that weekend down in Waukesha.

Nice solid looking truck. Getting it running, be sure the brakes are good, and drive the crap out of it. (Maybe with newer tires) What part of 'Sconsin are you in? I'm in the Appleton/Fox Valley area. There's a few other Pilot-House truck guys around here too. And I know there are several others scattered around the state. The rolling hills in the background look like you're over on the western side.

My condolences regarding your loss. But it's good to see you got Tank up and running around again. Nice looking DeSoto too.

I'm not sure how the fuel gauges worked in '36, but if they are similar to the later ones there is a constant pull electro-magnet that pulls the needle to "E" and another electro-magnet that connects to the sender. This creates a variable magnet to pull the needle to "F". The fuel sensor has lower resistance at full and higher resistance at empty. Lower resistance causes the magnet to be stronger to pull towards the "F" mark. If the sensor wire is shorted out that equals Zero resistance and will peg the gauge to "F". However, I've also seen cases where the gauge housing wasn't properly grounding to the dash and this caused the constant pull magnet to be dead so there was no pull towards "E". This would also peg the gauge to "F" even though the sensor circuit was good.

Just like it shows. BAT is the power input (Battery) which likely comes from your Ammeter IGN is the wire going to your ignition coil ACC is Accessory power, for radio, wipers, heater fan, etc. ST, in the center, is Start. This would go to the starter relay, if your car is key start. If you have a start button you would ignore this one.

Did you remember to turn the key on? Sounds like a dumb questions but it’s probably happened to many of us at one time or another. (I know I’ve done it) Or maybe your ignition switch failed and isn’t getting power to the coil?

I would never do that... ? (I was in a private lot)