Merle Coggins

I agree. Apple plays by their own rules.

Todd, It appears that the first picture, that didn't turn sideways, is more of a square format. Whereas the second one, that did turn, is a regular rectangular format. When using the standard "Photo" setting on my phone I try to always hold it horizontal with the camera lens on the upper left side. I don't have issues with the pictures flipping that way. Vertical will almost always turn them sideways. And if you do horizontal with the camera lens to the lower right the pics will turn upside down on the computer. I don't use the "Square" setting enough to have a frame of reference. But it appears that you used that setting for the first pic, which may be why it didn't turn. That's my experience, and theory anyway...

It depends on how you are holding your iPhone when you take the picture. The phone knows which way is up and will always display the picture properly, but that info doesn't always transfer to other computers.

Your seat is a bit more elaborate than mine, and probably a bit more stable as well. Also, I didn't have my fuel tank installed yet, so I have a boat tank sitting on the deck next to me. I suspect that was a good 'Initial Test' of your brakes, getting out of the driveway at your old house. ?

Do it!!! LOL!! I had a bit of a hesitation with my carb tune, which created some interesting moments on my bucket seat, but it was a blast.

I know a nice big yard in Elko, GA that would work. ?

SWMBO???

13.2 ?

I usually use my wire cutter pliers. Grab the end of the key as close to the shaft as possible with the tips of the cutter jaws. This will bite into the key enough to lift it when I pry against the shaft with the pliers. Pops them out almost every time.

I also didn’t see it as a want add. I read it as someone asking for advice on where to look for the wheels he needed.

What about adding an inline overdrive gear box, like one from Gear Vendors

The wall of tools is just a distraction as I drool over the hoist in the floor. ?

Just a quick note on the clutch job, if you're not familiar with these trucks. You don't need to remove the bell housing. In fact that would be a monumental task. Instead, remove the transmission and remove the lower inspection pan of the bell housing. You can now drop the clutch out the bottom of the bell housing. Flywheel too, if you are getting it ground for the new clutch.

A saying I picked up from a previous co-worker... "If at first you don't succeed, a bigger hammer is what you need." ?

Front sump pans will have the dipstick tube attached through the block. Rear sump pans need a dipstick tube attached to the pan, the the port in the block gets plugged.

Nice... That's either awesome planning, or just dumb luck.

I got some DPCD key blanks for my truck a few years ago. I was able to have my local True Value Hardware store grind them for me. They warned me that if the key grind didn't come out perfect, and they didn't work right, they wouldn't be able to compensate me, or correct it. I trusted them, based on earlier key replacements, and told them I wouldn't hold them liable. They've been working fine, and I'm happy. Many places don't want to cut any keys that weren't purchased from them. That's one advantage of smaller town hardware stores where they know you.

Stanley Black & Decker acquired Craftsman Tools from Sears/Kmart in 2017. Now they can sell them anywhere. I see them at Ace, but it's a limited selection. Stanley Black and Decker owns Dewalt, Irwin, Craftsman, Mac Tools, Porter Cable, Bostitch, Proto, and several others.

I wasn’t too keen on that one when it came out, but it’s grown on me, and I love the rest of the series, so it gets included by default. ?

1. Bourne Identity 2. Bourne Supremacy 3. Bourne Ultimatum 4. Jason Bourne 5. Bourne Legacy

Expanding on what 50mech drew up earlier, here's a more complete diagram. The diodes look backwards to me, but I'm also used to looking at Neg ground systems. I drew this one as Pos ground. Also, I found these 10A rated diodes on Amazon. They should be able to flow enough current for your fog lamps without burning out. https://www.amazon.com/Electronics-Salon-10SQ045-Schottky-Diodes-Rectifier/dp/B017N62QP0/ref=sr_1_67?dchild=1&keywords=diode&qid=1584619108&sr=8-67&swrs=2C67D648946E2BD38DA47F888C6208AE

If you can make a threaded stud in your lathe, why not make an adapter? 1-1/8" - 14 thread on the outside and 1/2" - 20 thread on the inside to accept your other tool. Then there's no risk of weakening the crank, or drilling into an oil passage.

That one looks like it would work great. Repeat for the other side. the direct switched wire from the fog light switch could connect to both sides, and this is where you'd want the diodes to keep from flashing both together.

Valve seats should already be hardened. If they're in good condition just touch them up, along with the valves, lap 'em in, and run it.

I would probably use relays. I'd have the turn signal circuit for each side activate a relay which would then power on the fog lamp. This would reduce the amp load on your turn signal switch and flasher relay. You could still use diodes to isolate the left and right side fog lamps, if you still want to use them as fog lamps.