jonkmahl

Thanks JB, in the network engineer world we call it FM. Frigging Magic. Just needed to find someone to commiserate with, ugh!

Hey folks, I put my old windshield and windows in with all new weatherstripping about 3 weeks ago, back window first and then windshield, both pretty easy. Side windows ended up being easy once I figured out the best way to do it but after the 3 weeks of the truck just sitting while I was doing brake work and door weatherstripping and new window glass I noticed that a small crack had developed in the passenger side windshield glass. Starting at the upper outer corner about 4" long. Now I had installed the inside windshield metal border with new screws but they point away from the glass so dont think this was the cause. While working on the door weatherstripping I did slam the doors a few few times and used my impact gun to put the door bolts back on the driver side, rust was so bad that after taking the door hinge bolts out of the body side the door would not come off because the hinges seemed to be rusted to the body. But I happened to glance up and saw the new crack. They are the original glass windshields and I didnt notice the crack until later. Any idea if I just banged the wrong place or has anyone experienced anything like that? Just trying to figure out the weirdness of it. Thanks yalll.

Thanks for the info. I am going to use a piece of angle iron and mount it where the original went then mount the new tee horizontal, should work but dang I just hate working on a big chunk gravel floor with the truck on floor jacks. I do become envious when I see folks with nice garages with concrete floors, sigh. I like the idea of using 2 to make one, didnt occur to me. I got the 4 line one from dcmclassics for $20, found one similar drawing on the other baum site, dang cant remember the name, Andy... Anyone know why your hair turns gray? I found out that its because the gray matter of my brain is oozing out!

thanks guys, Ill check that out today.

After finding that the brake tee blocks were worn, I ran into another problem. The replacement parts were different. First the rear one I received was for the 51 while my rear end is a 56 Chrysler, The 51 has 1/4" brake lines while the 56 has 3/16". I had to find 1/4"F to 3/16"F flared reducers, found them at NAPA. Odd thing about that was when I went in and asked I drew a blank stare and he said come back and look through my stiock and see if you can find what you are looking for. The next problem is the front tee where the MC line, front brakes and line to the rear end is different. The original tee which mounts on the frame, has the MC line coming out parallel to the ground, the new one it exits at the bottom perpendicular to the gournd. My first concern was having a brake line going down then turning and perhaps being in danger of getting snagged and damaged. Then I realized that because the original tee mounts in the frame with the bottom of it against the frame lll now have to cut a notch in the frame to allow the MC line to be accessable. Ill post some pictures when i get up to the truck and get back online. Anyone run into this problem and figured out a fix? Thanks yall. John

Hey folks, I am replacing the Door Window Channel along with some other things in my 51 B3B and am finding that when I raise the window to the point where the glass comes to the point at which it comes out of the door (sorry for description, after the curve of the glass is above the door) and the straight part begins to come up, the window gets really tough to raise. It feels somewhat like the new window channel is squashed there and causes a lot of friction. I can post pictures if this makes no sense. Has anyone else experienced this situation and found a resolution? Trying to get moving before August goes away. Thanks yall. John

Hey folks, thanks for all the great help here which yall are providing. Makes my life easier. Now I am replacing the vent gasket which was hard and as brittle as a piece of glass, not to mention rusty as the dickens underneath. This truck must have been in a very high water situation at some point in its life because there is a terrific amount of rust in weird places. Under the dash is very rusty and I tried taking the driver side door off and the bolts came out with effort extremely rusty. The door wont come off because of the hinge to body rust. But I digress. When I removed the two pivot bolts holding down the vent, one was a bear to get out the other had a strangely damaged nut which had about a third of it missing. I was able to get the one out successfully but the other was so rusty that I had to use a wrench to break the bolt in half. Because of the nature of this setup for the vent to be able to be levered up the two bolts are designed to have a shoulder on them to allow pivoting while the bolts are tightened. I cant find a bolt with a shoulder at my nuts n bolts a drome store but figure I can make some thing work. But before I button it all up and move to my next problem I thought I see if anyone knew of a place to get a replacement for this part. Thanks yall. John

thanks G.Dad.

Well this is most informative, and I admit a bit confusing. Seems there are several ways its been done. So thanks for all the input. The kit I received came in 3 pieces, one is the for lack of a better word fluted with a square body that attaches and a lip if you will that seals against the opposite part. This piece is long enough to go from all the way around the door save the bottom. The second piece is for the bottom and is rounded and pinched in the body area. The third as I remember is rectangular about 3/4 to 1" and is also quite long. Cheers.

Morning folks, I am trying to clear up some confusion I have on the weatherstripping position on the doors. In some videos it appears that the door weatherstripping partially surrounds the door. Using the driver side it looks to go from the top left of the door across and down to the bottom bed side of the door and is attached to the body itself. But in some pictures I've found here it is attached to the door and goes all around the door except for the bottom edge where there is a rounded piece along the body of the truck pinched between the screwed on piece at the bottom. The previous owner appears to have glued it to the door similar to the picture https://s1178.photobucket.com/user/ggdad1951/media/20130505_144308_zpsedd2e75f.jpg.htmli have no pictures on hand but can take some to clarify my description if necessary. Thanks for all the great help yall. John Can someone help clear this up for me?

Great to hear that. Cant wait to get to that point.

Thanks again! Still finishing up rusted brakes and window and door seals, replacing broken windows and fighting rust under the dash. Figured I'd get a head start on the bed as it is off and I am waiting on parts, better prepared that not. Previous owner had put down plywood and little flooring pieces so I have no old boards to go by unfortunately and they were a sodden rotten mess with ant nests in them. Nasty. Cheers yall.

Thanks a bunch Brian!

Hey folks. I started this truck being told "Oh it only needs to have the brakes bled." And as so many others theys and Maury would say, "that was a lie." master cylinder and wheel cylinders were rusted stuck. I have replaced MC and WCs and decided to try using the CU-NI brake lines but could not get any good flare fittings on these with my Lisle flare tool. I decided to get ready made lines but I have had a leak from this one also. It is leaking out of the fitting up the line, not at the tee. Its making me crazy. I decided to just get the front and rear end tee and replace them anyway. Could have gone with a brake line premade kit but didnt, kicking myself now. As an aside, the premade line has one short fitting and one long fitting which goes into the tee. From what I read this is only to allow the fitting to be accessable from recessed wheel cylinders but of course I am caustious new with the leaks. Any help or thoughts would be appreciated. Cheers yall.