Merle Coggins

Like was said, use your bell housing for the 4 speed and attach to the donor engine. Also, a B3C would be a ‘51 or ‘52 model, so your ‘51 donor engine should be a perfect swap. They likely have the same engine code stamped in the S/N pad. I believe it should be T308. Lovin’ the ‘58 W100. Is that a Fire Department logo on the door?

That does look much better.

The parts truck I purchased, when building my truck, had the factory electric wipers. My truck had vacuum wipers. I pulled the electric unit, with all linkage, and put it into my truck. Piece of cake... I recall that the linkages were all different between the two which is why everything needed to be changed. I ended up giving my vacuum unit and linkage to Bill Pingel for his truck.

I was thinking the same thing. It doesn't look like the bearing caps fit into the yolk right. I questioned that u-joint earlier too, as it has internal retainer clips on those caps and external clips on the other caps. It seems to be a conversion type u-joint when it wouldn't need to be.

I'm being reminded of a similar engine failure from early on in my construction equipment mechanic career. We had Komatsu dozer that spit a rod through the block. I believe it started with an injector failure that caused piston damage. The piston seized in the cylinder bore and the con rod was ripped out the bottom, becoming a flail in the bottom of the engine. It busted a sizable hole in the block skirt. They decided to attempt repair in chassis. I dropped the oil pan and removed the remains of the con rod and discovered the crank was still good. Pulled the head and knocked out the piston and liner. The upper part of the block was still good. They brought in someone that stitch welded up the hole in the block skirt. Then I reassembled the engine with a new liner, piston, and connecting rod. We probably went through the injection system too, but I don't recall the details of that. (this was at least 30 years ago). I do remember that it ran fine when we were done with it. It at least ran long enough to go back to the customer. I never heard anything about it after that. Maybe it still runs today, or maybe not...

F.Y.I. This is the socket you’ll want/need. It has a 3/4” drive, so you may also want to have a 3/4”to 1/2” drive adapter.

That little notch in the drum is nice when adjusting your shoes. You can get a visual on what your clearances are as you spin the drum. I wish the smaller trucks had those. As for removing the axle shaft, I usually give the center of the end cap a smack with a hammer, after removing the nuts, and it will usually pop out slightly. If not, then you can use those other two holes with pusher bolts to pull it out. Once you get that out you will see the retainer nuts. There's an outer lock nut, locking washer, and inner nut. They are 8 sided, as I remember. I bought a socket for them when I was helping Kris with his brake job. They're not that expensive. If you don't have the socket wrench a hammer and punch/chisel is often used to remove the lock nut. The socket just makes it easier, and more professional. Pretty simple... much like removing the front drums once you get to that part.

You got yourself one of them fancy ventilated blocks... ?

If you plan on converting to Pertronix in the future I would recommend using their plug wires. That way you'll know you have good stuff for now, and they will be compatible when you make the swap.

You need to prime the pump as it is now empty. Best way to do that, without removing the pump from the engine, is to pack the rotor cavities with assembly lube, or Vaseline. This will allow the pump to pull up oil from the sump and start pumping again. The assembly lube, or Vaseline, will break down in the oil and won’t cause any damage.

I had a similar issue when I swapped out my differential for a 3.73 diff. When I went to reinstall the driveshaft I couldn’t get it into the yolk. I’m still unsure how I got it out on disassembly if it was that tight. Must have been some pry bar action. With a bare frame, no cab or bed installed, there wasn’t enough weight to compress the springs so the axle was in it’s most forward position. Anyway... I was working in the heavy equipment shop where I work, so I looked around for some weight to set on the frame to compress the springs so that axle would move rearward. An excavator bucket did the trick. I lowered it down onto the frame with the overhead crane until I achieved enough movement to get the job done. Also, looking at your u-joint it seems to be a combo unit with external circlips on one half and internal circlips on the other half. You’ll need to remove those internal clips to get it set into the drive yolk. And I believe the only place you’ll find those retainer brackets would be from another truck.

If the IAT 4011 is in good condition, why not just clean up that one and use it in your truck?

Reminds me of a story... Several years ago I was riding my Gold Wing down in Tennessee, coming up US441 into Gatlinburg. We were slowly catching a group of Harley riders and I soon realized that we would catch up to them right at the entrance to a tunnel. You can probably guess what they started doing. Well... I happened to have a set of air horns on my Wing, so I thumbed the horn button and held it until I came out the other end of the tunnel. When I exited the tunnel I let off the horns and keyed up the CB mic to say, to my riding buddy behind me, “I can make noise too.” He was laughing so hard he could hardly talk, but he managed to let me know those Harley guys got off the throttles and were looking around trying to figure out where the truck was. He had the same thought as we approached the other riders, and the tunnel, and he knew what I was going to do.

If you got the numbers off the bearing cone and cup, source new bearings according to those numbers. Don't rely on Amazon to tell you if they are correct for your axle. Their reference list probably doesn't go back that far. Take those Timkin numbers to your local Napa, or bearing house and get a new set.

I had a similar higher RPM issue after I changed out a set of points and didn't get the spring locked in place right. I discovered when it got over around 1500 RPM the engine would lose power. Upon further inspection I found that the ignition timing would get very erratic and retard greatly over that speed. A close review of my recent work discovered the miss-installed spring. Without the spring the points would float at higher speeds. Once that was corrected, and the dwell and timing reset, it ran like a top. Another possible cause would be fuel starvation due to clogged jets, or a fuel supply issue. But I would check the ignition first.

Low compression on #3, and excessive blow-by, would tend to indicate bad rings on #3 piston. They may just be stuck in their grooves due to extended time of non running, and may loosen up after a few more heat cycles. Or not... Maybe give it another Seafoam treatment and drive it around for a month to see what happens. (I'm all for doing simple things first) If it continues after that you may need to do a partial tear down of the engine to free, or replace, the rings on that hole. If valves were the issue you'd likely have a miss-fire, or rough running engine, and that wouldn't cause excessive blow-by. My oil pressure typically sits at just over 40 when driving down the road. 50-60 does sound a bit high, with hot oil. A sticky relief valve could very well be the culprit there too. Maybe the Seafoam treatment will help with that as well??? Otherwise you'll have to try to extract it and clean it up.

I did the same. I believe they’re called Binding Post bolts, or screws. I got them at my local hardware store.

I wouldn't put that in the "rose" category either... more like an invasive weed...

Since your truck is a military vehicle, and seeing the air filter at the oil fill pipe, I would suspect your engine would have had a a PCV setup instead of a draft tube. but if you want to use a draft tube it would have to be long enough to hang down in the air stream below the engine so that it can pull the gases out, as mentioned earlier. The also have a diagonal cut at the end with the long side towards the front.

There's no oil up in the head, or anywhere near the head bolts. Anything coming through the head bolts would be coolant.

Yes, B4B is a valid model ID for a B-series truck built in 1953. Some catalogs may just show B4, or B-4 and then reference "1/2 ton" in stead of the second "B".

Years ago I got mine at Napa, but I’m not seeing them listed on napaonline now. I’ve also seen them on Rockauto, but I can’t seem to find them now. However, DCM Classics does show them. https://dcmclassics.com/brake-parts/384-br-261-48-wheel-cylinders-half-size.html

Yes, that's likely the casting date of the case. I've never seen a model ID listed for these transmissions. They're just New Process 4 speeds. I believe the later version is refered to as the NP420. Non-synchro vs. synchronized transmissions refers to how the sliding gears function. In the early spur gear, non-synchronized transmissions the gears have straight cut teeth and there are no synchronizers to aid in shifting. With these transmissions you need to learn the art of double clutching your shifts. The later, synchronized, version was introduced into the Dodge trucks in '51. This transmission has helical cut gear teeth for quieter operation and syncronizers on 3rd and 4th gears for easier shifting. Pretty much all modern transmissions are of this synchronized type now. Another way to know the difference, and how I identified this one, is that on the earlier spur gear units the PTO drive was ahead of the fill/level plug whereas the later, synchronized, units have the PTO moved rearward with the fill/level plug towards the front.

Mark pretty much said what I was thinking. I guess great minds do think alike, except when it comes to sports teams. ?

That looks like an early New Process, spur gear (not synchronized) 4 speed. And yes, the gizmo hanging off the right side is a PTO.