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WPVT

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About WPVT

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1954 Dodge C-1-B truck

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    I'm a year older than my 1954 truck.
  • Occupation
    Business owner

Converted

  • Location
    Vermont
  • Interests
    mechanical work, farming,woodworking

Recent Profile Visitors

91 profile views
  1. As I suggested in an earlier post, disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor. Turning the engine over with the starter, there should be a good stream of fuel being pumped. If there isn't, you have a fuel problem between there and the tank. Basic troubleshooting is quicker and easier than speculating. Checking for fuel supply is a good first step.
  2. If letting off the gas for a bit temporarily cures the problem, it sounds like a fuel delivery issue. The carburetor may be running dry, and then letting off the pedal lets it build up a little more fuel in the bowl to run again. Replacing or rebuilding the fuel pump couldn't do any harm. Often they become marginal...sometimes working well enough , sometimes not. Along the same line, you might check any fuel filter that you have, as well as a restricted fuel line. The short flexible line that connects the pump with the steel line to the tank can fail. It's under suction, so it can collapse in
  3. Thanks everyone. I just completed replacing the rear engine mounts on a C-1. It took about two hours work, but 2 weeks of research. I learned some very important basic principles about this mount design that I'd like to pass along. The C series mounts are a little different than the B series, but the basics apply nonetheless. The mounts use a rubber donut and steel washer on top that the engine rests on. Then comes the frame. Then comes either another rubber donut (C-series) or a rubber washer (B series) followed by a steel washer. Running through these is a long, fine threaded bolt, and
  4. Any advice concerning replacement of the rear motor mounts would be appreciated.
  5. Good luck ! Let me know if I can be of any further help. My truck appears to be pretty original and it's the same year and model as yours.
  6. I've done my best to get the dimensions accurately. Not sure what degree of precision is needed. I'm probably within a half inch or less. I didn't remove the wheels, so I had to do a little math, but I was careful about it. The total width you are seeking is 62 1/2". Although the differential housing appears to be centered, or nearly so, the driveshaft is offset 1 1/4" from the centerline of the width I gave you. It's closer to the passenger side. I hope this is helpful to you. Are you trying to match up a replacement, or fabricating something like in your diagram ?
  7. Thanks for the clarification. I might not get back to you until this afternoon.
  8. I have a C1-B6 1954 truck. I'd be happy to check for a dimension tomorrow. Can you be any more specific about what dimension you need ? ( Maybe it will be more obvious when I'm under the truck. )
  9. The engine vibration that I am experiencing with my 1954 C-1-B6 pickup seems excessive to me. The engine runs pretty smooth, but it seems like too much engine vibration is being transmitted to the frame and thence to the steering wheel and cab. I've read everything on this forum relating to motor mounts. Mine don't look that bad, but they are undoubtedly old. So in the interest of experimentation, I loosened all of the mounts, front and rear. I jacked up the engine about an inch and started the truck. Much smoother, of course. True "floating power". I'm going to take the truck for a spi
  10. Can someone recommend a source for a complete OEM type exhaust system for a 1954 1/2 ton 218ci Dodge ? I'd like to get as close to the original as possible, quiet, not loud. I know I can go to my local muffler shop, but I'd like to keep as close to stock original as possible.
  11. I used a butyl sealant tape. It was actually more like a cord, so I flattened it out as I applied it. It's plenty sticky, but not as messy as something you'd use in a gun. It sticks and seals but you can remove it if need be.
  12. I disconnected the front mount and jacked up the engine just to see if vibration was still being transmitted to the cab. I didn't feel any difference, so I'm glad I didn't go to the trouble of replacing the mount. I checked both U-joints again and this time found some play in the front, so I replaced both front and rear universal joints. It made a big difference rolling down the road. Am I the only one who has replaced universal joints and managed to install them so that the grease fittings are inaccessible ? I don't remember having to pay attention to that detail last time I instal
  13. Thanks. I'm thinking an older front mount may transmit vibration to the frame and then to the steering column which is mounted nearby. But I don't really know. That's why I'd like to hear someone's before and after comparison. I suppose I could loosen the existing mount enough to temporarily break the hard mechanical connection and see what that feels like.
  14. I'd like to hear from anyone who has replaced their front rubber motor mount, specifically, whether it made an appreciable difference in the amount of vibration transmitted from the engine to the frame and cab. My rear mounts are still in good shape, but it's hard to assess the front mounts, as I doubt they were very cushioned to begin with. It looks like a fairly tedious job, and I don't want to do it unless it would make a difference that I could feel. Thanks.
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