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About WPVT

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • My Project Cars
    1954 Dodge C-1-B truck

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    I'm a year older than my 1954 truck.
  • Occupation
    Business owner


  • Location
  • Interests
    mechanical work, farming,woodworking

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151 profile views
  1. I installed the new mounts today. The spacer/washer assemblies were kept separated, the washer installed above, and the tubular spacer pushed up through the rubber from below to mate with the washer. What I ended up with was exactly what was there originally. Although the old mounts appeared to be in good shape, and weren't overly compressed, the new mounts made a big difference in the way the truck sounds and feels going down the road. So if somebody is wondering whether changing out the old mounts is worth it....it definitely is.
  2. Thanks. I drilled and tapped the bottom of the brass rod inside the cone, tapped the plate where it had broken off, and inserted a brass threaded stud #4-40. I added some epoxy because it wasn't as neat a job as it might sound. It works and the cone seems pretty rigid. I wouldn't bet my life on it, but I didn't want to give up. If I had known ahead of time how it all worked and went together, I think I could've have done a neater job. If it fails, at least I know who to blame.
  3. Fingers crossed. I haven't fixed it yet, but I have a plan.
  4. Thanks. I figured it out with an ohmmeter. The top wire of the coil is connected to a brass rod that passes through the center of the cone, and ends at the bottom rivet. So when it is riveted in place, the terminal is electrically connected to the top of the coil. The bottom of the coil winding is connected to nothing. I think this original old style has some advantages over the reproductions. The cone shaped winding means that the ohm variation isn't entirely linear, the way it would be if the winding were on a cylinder. Full and empty would still be accurate, but in between, less so.
  5. Thanks so much. There's a little tab brass at the top of the coil, and something similar at the bottom. I think that a brass rivet held the coil in place at the bottom and that's what breaks. What's puzzling me is where and how the coil was connected electrically. Somehow, the top of the coil was wired to the hot terminal. Are there any clues on this piece ? Thanks again.
  6. I removed the malfunctioning fuel tank sending unit from my 1954 C-1 truck. Sure enough, on opening it up, there were loose parts that fell out. Included in this was a cone shaped piece wound with resistance wire. I carefully put things back together. This is a single wire unit. The wiper contactor is grounded, one end of the cone is connected to the hot terminal. Reassembling, I tested and found that it did range from 9 oms to 90 ohms, just what the spec calls for. Unfortunately, the ohms are 90 when full and 9 when empty. So I must have inadvertently wired or installed the cone upside down
  7. Sounds just like mine. Turns out Vic's Dodger Garage has the exact match rubber. Washer/spacer/washer sounds like a more practical design when it comes to replacement. I'll reassemble mine that way. The motor mounts look the same, but the spacer design length was intended to provide with a bit of clearance...not compressing the rubber. That way they do their job a lot better. Compressing the rubber just serves to transmit the engine vibration to the frame. I'm not sure the cab mounts were intended to be left with clearance, though. They take a lot more st
  8. Thanks. I contacted Vic to ask for dimensions to see if they would work. He's a great guy to do business with.
  9. I was able to remove the steel spacers by using a punch, from above, to separate the spacer from the washer. The spacer was manufactured with a small shoulder where it was pressed into the washer and swaged. Once they were removed, I was able to jack up the cab enough to slide out the upper rubber bushing. Now it remains to find or fashion replacements. I am attaching a photo of the components. I am guessing that the the upper and lower bushings were originally identical, but the weight of the cab has distorted the upper. I think I'll be able to reuse the steel spacer by reversing the pr
  10. Thanks. I figured that the rubber might just be holding things stuck together, but I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something other than the four bolts. Tomorrow I will get them separated one way or the other.
  11. Thanks. I follow your procedure. Good news if the spacer is just pressed into the washer....I thought it might be a weld. If it's pressed in, I may be able to separate it with a punch from above. I hadn't considered that possibility. Putting a jack on the running board is also a good idea. If I jack off the floor, I may just lift the whole truck. I've located some polyurethane mounts that are the size I need. The thickness on upper one is critical if I'm not going to change the cab height. Thanks again.
  12. I have a question for you, JB. I've got all four mounts unbolted and the bolts removed, so the cab is just sitting on the upper rubber mounts. The mounts don't really look "pancaked", they're just a little harder than I'd like to see, so I have in mind to replace them. My question is this. Everything is unbolted, but the cab still feels firmly attached to the frame. You would think I could at least rock it a little. The old rubber may be acting as an adhesive, but I've actually tried rocking the cab pretty hard. Looking at the mounts, I can see that nothing has separated, not even a fract
  13. I'm replacing the cab mounts on my 1954 C-1-B6 truck. The existing stock mounts front and rear are very close to the image attached except that the lower part is 1 3/8" thick and the upper part is 1 1/8" thick. Both parts are 2 1/2" in diameter. I've seen some offered for sale that look similar, but not these dimensions. The 2 1/2" is fairly important, and the 1 1/8" dimension is also. The 1 3/8" dimension, the thickness of the lower part, could vary if need be. Does anyone know of a source that offers the mounts to these dimensions or close ? (The left front mount is different, but that does
  14. Funny you should mention that. My next project is renewing the mounts. Maybe that will help.
  15. I was all set to adjust the valves on my 1954 218ci. I removed the wheel and all the nuts and bolts holding the fender inner panel. The inner panel was still pretty firm. It's not rusty but just tightly fit into where it is located. I looked long and hard at how it would have to come out and decided it would be very difficult to get it back in. So valve adjustment has moved to low priority. How difficult have others found the inner panel removal and re-installation ? It may be that the 1954 C series is significantly different from earlier B series models. Has anyone done this on a C seri
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