Merle Coggins
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Everything posted by Merle Coggins
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Yes
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custom steering wheel, now the turn signals won't cancel.
Merle Coggins replied to Florida Marty's topic in Off Topic (OT)
I had a beeping flasher in my truck for a while to remind me to turn off the signals, as it's an aftermarket signal switch without auto cancel. However, after a while it got too annoying and I switched back to a normal flasher. I don't seem to have a problem canceling the blinkers. It's just become a part of the routine now. -
Greyhound works well, but I don't know if they'd take a 250 lb. package, as the drivers need to be able to load and unload it from the luggage bays.
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Ask for brake line. You can either buy the premade sticks and splice them together with couplers, or buy a roll of brake line and flare your own ends. If you do the "make your own" with a roll of tubing I recommend the copper/nickel tubing. It's easier to bend and work with.
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I used a Rusty Hope kit to convert my front brakes.
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For now you could just cap off that port below the thermostat so that you can fill the system and run the engine.
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Interesting... Why would one wish to shut off the thermostat bypass? And the second adapter appears to be below the thermostat, which would be hot coolant under pressure, similar to the port at the rear of the head. Was it supposed to get more coolant flow through the heater, in effect making the heater the thermostat bypass circuit with the valve closed? Can anyone find this option in a W-Series parts catalog?
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Yes, that's what I'm saying. As stated earlier the fuel level sender should have 10 Ohms of resistance at the Full position and 90 Ohms at Empty. Yours has 5 Ohms at Empty and 28 Ohms at Full. The resistance swing is backwards and the values are too low. The lower the resistance value from the sensor the stronger the electro magnet in the gauge will be to pull the needle to the Full position.
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If you don't have a heater it's best to cap off the heater ports on the engine. Normally the heater supply comes out of the back corner of the head. I can't see what's there in your picture as it's too dark in that corner. The heater return would be plumbed into that plug at the top of your thermostat to water pump housing. (above the tube in question)
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It looks like there are adapter housings under the thermostat and water pump connector. I wonder if that's part of an aftermarket accessory of some kind. I've never seen anything like that. You could probably take out both pieces and have a 'normal' engine.
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Get the correct sender
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That would be from a ‘50 or later column shift truck.
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Have you measured the resistance values of the new sender over the full range of movement? It should be around 10 Ohms at the full position and around 90 Ohms at empty. It sounds as though the resistance values may be reversed and too low.
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Plymouth? Dodge? DeSoto? Chrysler? Ford? Pontiac? Packard? ...
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46 dodge 230 Stumble but no start
Merle Coggins replied to Kevins nightmare's topic in Technical Archives
That was my thought too... -
First Foray - Just Purchased 1953 Dodge B3B
Merle Coggins replied to Oliver's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
The B3 series were manufactured in ‘51 and ‘52. Yours may have been a late ‘52 production that was sold and titled in ‘53, thus reflecting that on the title. This was common back then. Many states used the year of purchase as the model year on the title. My B2C was built in December of 1950, near the end of B2 production, likely purchased in spring of 1951, and the title says it’s a ‘51. I still refer to it as a ‘50 though as it makes more sense to us Pilot-House junkies that a B2C would be a 1950 model. -
Reminds me of this…
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Getting my 230 to run after starting
Merle Coggins replied to Salty51's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Have you tried a little throttle, or adjusting up the idle screw a few turns? Sometimes the idle circuit isn’t quite right and won’t allow the engine to idle properly, but a little throttle will get it running on the main jet. Or, a faulty ignition switch will supply ignition voltage when in crank position, but will drop it when you release to the run position. -
First Foray - Just Purchased 1953 Dodge B3B
Merle Coggins replied to Oliver's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Nice… I recommend Quiet Ride Solutions for headliner and such. https://www.quietride.com/index.html -
If it’s a 3 speed it’s out of an earlier (‘49 or earlier) truck. That’s fine as long as it performs as required and you’re happy with it.
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First Foray - Just Purchased 1953 Dodge B3B
Merle Coggins replied to Oliver's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Good looking truck, from the outside. Is it roadworthy? You imply there is still some work that it needs. We’re here to help. -
A B3B, if equipped with a 3 speed, would have column shift. A 4 speed would be floor shift. It seems that either someone has replaced the column at some time, or replaced the trans.
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Did you readjust the brake shoes after replacing the wheel cylinders? It sounds like there may be too much clearance. You can pump them out with a couple of pumps, but then when you let them fully return you need to pump them back out to get good contact again.
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That’s the shift linkage. There should be a shift lever connected at the top. Has your truck been converted to a floor shift trans?
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My previous daily driver, F150, would eat through the outer pad on the left front for no apparent reason. I even replaced the caliper and it would still do it. I would go through 2 or 3 outer pads before the rest would need to be replaced. I never figured out why it did that. Then that truck got wrecked last summer and I got a new truck... Problem gone...
