Florida Marty

Phosphorus as an additive is actually a good thing from what I understand. It creates a coating on yellow metal and protects it from corrosion. Just something to consider.

So I have now spent way too much time on this topic, but feel I have found out enough about what new and old lubricants are acceptable for this application. Thank you to Greg G for all his help. From my limited research, It appears Sulfur additives are the main concern and widely used in newer formulated gear oils to help control heat. The sulfur activates at somewhere above 200F and at that point, becomes most damaging to yellow metals. GL-4 gear oils, mostly DO NOT contain sulfur and are largely recommended for gear boxes containing yellow metal. At least that's what my research reveals. GL-5, does contain sulfur. Plain old GL-1 rated gear oil is still available and preffered, but harder to locate, and kinda expensive at this time. I just checked NAPA today, and they want $32.99 per gallon of GL-1, SAE 90 here locally. Other brands of non sulfurized, SAE 80-90, GL-4, I found today as low as $10 per gallon. Since yellow metal is pretty much the only concern, I surmise the GL-4 would be advantages as most if not all are EP type, recommended for gear boxes, steering gears, rear axles, conv rear diffs and rear diff's including limited slip. Maybe GL-4 would allow for just stocking 1 type gear oil for the rear diff, the OD, and the manual trans. I realize some of you are traditionalists and I respect that, but just maybe there is more than 1 correct gear oil for this application. I would love to hear other's opinions. Thank you to all!

Thank you for the information.

Like many before me, I have searched this site for a definitive answer, and cannot find it. Maybe my inexperience. I know this topic has been covered here before, but most of what I have read here, still did NOT directly answer the question. I don't mean to sound critical, far from it, I just am trying to get to the bottom of it, so I can avoid a costly mistake. I hope one of you holds the key to the confusion. I have a 1953 Meadowbrook Suburban, with original factory Flathead 6 cyl, 3 on the tree, and overdrive. The factory Dodge shop manual says to use SAE 10 W engine oil to fill both the overdrive and trans units under section 13-lubrication. Later in the book, section 18-overdrive transmission, it says to use SAE 80 lubricant. The capacities also disagree. I have searched the web, and fifthaveinternetgarage seems to be the most knowledgeable, but they say to use only SAE 90 in a BW R-10 overdrive. I inquired via email, but unfortunately Randy Rundle, the site's creator, has passed away. His widow recently explained she is unable to offer solutions other than what Randy had posted. RIP Mr. Rundle. So in closing, thank you to all of you. I hope someone can assist me, and one day I can return the favor. Thank you.

I should have been more clear. The turn signal mechanics and wiring is OEM. The solution I am hoping to find is simply a cancel cam addition/adapter that will mount to back of steering wheel and interact with the OEM mechanics of the turn signal assembly. The back of the steering wheel is aluminum and flat.

Hi, I'm brand new to the site, please be patient with me, I am not familiar with forums whatsoever. A little over a year ago, I purchased my 1st old Mopar. 1953 Dodge Meadowbrook suburban. Yep, I went and bought a rare car that needs TLC. I knew better, but I loved the car. When I took delivery, it ran and drove, and the headlights worked, and that's it! I have spent the last year getting to know her, and fixing every little thing, including a whole new rewire. The car has a custom aftermarket steering wheel, the PO installed. There is no accommodation for turn signal cancellation, at least not as far as I can tell. The car does have the original column. The turn signals now work, they just don't cancel. I understand from some research I've done, that the cancelling lobes were molded into the back of the OEM steering wheels. I was wondering, actually hoping, someone in this forum, has dealt with this, or knows someone who has solved this problem? I've seen the GM cancel cams on Amazon, and I even think I read somewhere that Dodge in some cases used GM parts. For now, I have changed out the turn signal relay to a 6v motorcycle type, that has a beeping sound when activated. At least for now, I have some kind of reminder other than just the blinking light in the speedo. I have yet to put the car on the road. I truly appreciate any advice or help, and will return the favor asap. I have made some minor electrical and mechanical mods to aid in drivability which I will share in the future. Thank you to all, and if I have repeated a topic, please forgive me, I'll do better next time. Thanks.