tom'sB2B

Was that on 85? It's always a little squirrelly driving on that grooved concrete.

https://youtu.be/VqomZQMZQCQ

Originally my wheels matched the paint. I saw this add and thought the wheels would look good in a cream color.

I also had that problem. I lowered the carburetor float and that has helped eliminate the problem.

The jeep axle I used had the ebrake set in the center console. I have a 1950 B2B, which has the ebrake hand lever under the dash. I was hoping to use the original, but there was not enough movement in the lever under the dash to engage the jeep ebrake. So, a friend gave me ratchet style handbrake out of some unknown vehicle which I mounted to the floor. It's a little clumsy but it works until I can find a better setup. I have also seen a Jeep axle used where the ebrake was the foot action style. The owner was able to mount the foot ratchet on the side of the cab underneath the dash. I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

Here is a photo of a vacuum advance as it sits on the distributor. Photo courtesy of Don Coatney RIP

That's your vacuum advance line that runs to your vacuum advance diaphragm on your distributor.

Took a cruise up the coast today. Perfect weather. Wishing everyone a great Thanksgiving!

I like to use a thread chaser to clean the bolt holes to the point where I can easily screw it in and out with my fingers. I think it helps with not braking the bolts when tightening the head.

I got one tucked away. Going to put it in my 1950 B2B with a T5 transmission. If it's reasonably priced, I would pull the trigger on one. I don't think they're as common as it seems. IMHO.

Don't be self conscious about not having quarter windows. It's still a Pilothouse. The original purchaser was just cheap. I bet there are fewer trucks without the corner windows ...that's what I keep telling myself anyways ? Either way, you got a good looking truck.

IMHO. If you're not bending the pipe yourself, it is not uncommon or difficult for a proper exhaust shop to do dual pipes. I'm happy with how mine turned out..

It is glued to the body of the car.

Allow me to assume that as a " vato loco", you're more interested in low and slow then fast and loud. A 218/230 with a few upgrades will give you plenty of power. Does the coupe have fluid drive? This may cause you problems with an engine swap. You may also need to think about a rear axle swap. Also trans options such as a T5, BorgWarner, or keeping the 3speed if it will work with the new engine. This will help you acquire highway speeds with a flathead. I will also plug Terrill Machine in Deleon TX. for your rebuild parts Good luck on your build. I look forward to seeing your progress. ?

I bought most of my internal parts from Terrell Machine in Deleon Texas. Quality parts and will ship the next day. Much cheaper than VPW.

Forgive me if this is common knowledge, but I have found that on 25" engines the ID is stamped on top of the tab at the front of the engine. Where as the 23" engines the ID is stamped on the side of the tab at the front of the engine. I've also found this site helpful in identifying engines. https://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php

Allow me to be redundant.

There are many great build threads on this forum. This is one of my favorites. It's good you're thinking ahead.

IMHO Valves look fine. If you are getting it to run for 15 seconds, it sounds like you're close. You've found top dead center You've identified the position on your distributor for the number one spark plug. You have the plugs set for correct firing order. You have the correct points gap At top dead center, you've position the distributor slightly before or at the rise of the cam. I have also found that, having a clean fuel system and trying to draw fuel from the tank will take some cranking and will help to hold your hand over the carb to help draw the gas up into the carb. Good luck I'm sure there are forum members that will correct my procedures.

I agree. Not necessary. I ended up pulling the front clip to clean-up the frame, etc. ..Snowball. Makes it easier going in.

I would have advised to pull the front clip, but it looks like you're headed that way. Much easier to pull the engine that way. I also dropped the tranny and removed the seat and front floor panel to access clutch and trans linkage.

I agree with Patsy. Your car is the cat's meow Thanks for sharing.

Something also to consider is the emergency brake set-up. I used a 3:55 from a 89 Cherokee. The e-brake was a ratchet style between the seats. I had hoped to use the original pull handle under the dash, but found that there was not enough travel in the handle to engage the brakes. So, I found a ratchet style brake handle and mounted it to the floor. I also know someone who used the foot style e-brake near the driver's side door. Fabricated a bracket to mount it on. Works well too

This may or may not help. Disregard the arrow. You can see we're the dowl pin is located.

I have been happy with this style.