Dodgeb4ya

I'd like to order that glass jug of "Fluid Drive " fluid please!

Dennis Bickford in New Mexico repairs/repaired the Town and Country flipper handles..1941 -50. I don't have his info anymore. He sells parts and some services for the T&C cars. He might have the handle parts too possibly.

It will be fine. I've had that happen too even using the correct installation tools and sealant. As long as the seal is driven in carefully with no distortion of the face all should be good.

As above ...all four windows. That info out of the 46-48 Chrysler factory parts book. Those are hard to find NOS. The higher line Windsor/ NewYorker Lavalier Lucite clear handles are 99.9% near impossible to find NOS.... Especially the shorter rear cpe and convert handles.

And from the mopar nopro guy. Great pricing for return to shelf parts.

1156238 is for 1946-48 lower line Royal and Saratoga cars.

Nice looking hoist. I need to figure out what one is in my 2-1/2 ton.

Get a straight eight 46-48 Chrysler...no need for OD. cruises fine at 70.

Any oil thicker than 10W will cause slower down shifting. Idle speed must be close to 450-500. Governor points must be wiped clean of oil too. Over the past I have always bought by the case what local 10W oil was available. Never an issue.

This series of engine...Moly Blocks...

A friend once used 10/30. Up-shifted way fast ...was slow to downshift. He liked it for his beater 48 Chrysler club cpe.

How much does that 413 six cylinder engine weigh? In ounces....18,720 oz's In lbs..............1,170 Lbs

MoPar rear axle housings make great mail box stands...

The B3/4 wiper motor is just a very common wiper motor used on 1949-52 passenger cars....used on some Dodge cars, used on all DeSoto and Chrysler cars. This is a 2 speed electric wiper motor....very reliable as long as the ground is good and the linkage is lubed.

You most likely won't get one of these four bolt rear main caps off rocking off with the bolts...bigger DT 4 bolt rear main cap....use of a plate puller required.

Brent did an amazing job bringing jimbob back to life from a neglected moldy moss covered derelict ugly looking big truck! It was cool to see it hauling ass around Tim's place!? Light duty dodge truck owners don't know what good brakes are till they drive the heavier "F" on up trucks with the brake booster. Kudos to Brent!

You are correct...to remove that seal plate all three fasteners...(the two slotted screws and a hex bolt) are accessible when the pan is removed. My loss of memory!?

Your are only replacing the two pan side rail gaskets plus the two thick cork end gaskets. An oil pan re-seal job. Those stupid O-rings never used to come in an oil pan gasket set. Now there is an area that uses two approximately 1" long by 1/16" diameter straight rubber strips. These two straight rubber seals fit into a straight groove on each side of the front of the engine aluminum seal plate. These two rubber strip seals are used to seal this aluminum plate against oil leakage between this plate and block. This aluminum plate is what the front oil pan and cork gasket seal on. For some silly reason gasket suppliers want you to cut the O- rings....straighten them out and fit them into the groove on this aluminum front oil pan sealing plate. To even remove this plate both the oil pan and timing cover must be removed to remove said plate to replace the two seals. NOT part of a oil pan gasket re-seal job!

Cap must to be vented.

Very nice tubing work!?

Briefly....It starts from the tank...up up and over the left side of the frame to the front of frame. Then wraps around the front of frame to the fuel pump area. Connects to the rubber fuel pump flex hose. Isn't your original line on your frame?

Get a group 2

If you don't have a good puller collapse it from the sides carefully as much as you need to loosen it's grip in the extension housing. Then use a sharp 1/4 to 3/8" chisel hit it from the side and angle wedge it to the rear of the housing and out. Those 7/8" thick old style seals can be pretty tight. Lucky me doing a job...

The steering wheel and shaft have splines....using one wider indexing spline to put the wheel properly on as designed by MoPar engineers. Though some people have managed to force the steering wheel down on the shaft splines incorrectly.