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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. Dodgeb4ya
    Odd place to mount a temp gauge sensor bulb.
  2. Dodgeb4ya
    Note that Moparnopro's ad shows that pivot pin that always seems to fall out of the fuel pump at the worst times....
  3. Dodgeb4ya
    China.
  4. Dodgeb4ya
    The clue was going up a hill and popping back into third. Low oil level...oil pump sucking air. The trans won't burn up low on oil...reason is the car isn't really drivable maxing out at 25 mph in 3rd. People park the car until the trans issue is fixed. Glad you filled it up and it upshifts and stays in 4th.
  5. Dodgeb4ya
    A 1952 or 53 Chrysler would not have an R10 OD.... It would have the M6 trans hi/lo range 4 speed though.
  6. Dodgeb4ya
    Those special washers are called a copper 45 degree flare gasket or washer. NAPA used to sell them for doing AC line /hose end fittings. "Parker" also had them. Pretty sure the 46-48 Chrysler parts book lists those copper washer with the part# too. The fittings into the block are pipe thread...no additional sealing needed except thread sealer. The copper washers fit into the recess where the tube nut screws down into the fittings. The steel tube nut crushes the steel tube onto the 45 degree flared thin copper washer for leak free seal. Those flared 45 degree copper washers are narrow,thin and of soft.
  7. Dodgeb4ya
    More radiator cooling and offset fith fan blade to lower fan noise howling.
  8. Dodgeb4ya
    Those special copper crush washers like can be found at McMaster Carr are fairly common. Those cupped copper sealing washers are correct factory installed parts on the Chrysler six to be sure of no leaks on the 1/2" steel oil filter lines. Trying to make those 1/2" steel oil filter lines like the factory would be extremely difficult....wouldn't try it. They don't ever fail unless damaged by physical damage. I have used those same cupped copper washers when installing the 5/8" AC lines on a 60 Imperial. They come in several sizes.
  9. Dodgeb4ya
    "And a fifth blade on the fan. Where do I get that option? " Buy a Chrysler with a straight "8" and your fan will have five blades. Typical eight cylinder Chrysler fan.
  10. Dodgeb4ya
    The 1946-48 Chrysler dipstick tubes are threaded into the block... not pressed in like the 23" engines in the Plymouth and dodge cars.
  11. Dodgeb4ya
    The linkage rod lengths have been changed.....making the throttle lever tab not able to push the kd sw. plunger. The throttle linkage can be adjusted to fix this issue. But you did fine.
  12. Dodgeb4ya
    Totally agree...don't trust cheap import cast junk brake parts. Use a good usable used MoPar drum before using any offshore poor design cast drum.
  13. Dodgeb4ya
    That old Chrysler plastic...used on knobs, dashes, handles and certain mottled steering wheels.... Vomit dog doo plastic...smells just like those late 50' and 60's screw driver handles.too..awful stink when it is beginning to crack and break down and or in hot weather. Ughhh
  14. Dodgeb4ya
    The plastic insert can be removed by carefully pushing the tiny pin in just enough to be able to pull the insert out. These 1946-48 Chrysler lucite "lavalier" handles are very difficult to repair....handle with care! They also are hard to find and very costly if found. The 1949-53 all die cast chrome are very common and easy to find.
  15. Dodgeb4ya
    I did a 35 Airflow that was cracked in the exact same spot below the deck with Belzona $$...after a month it was leaking again. The engine shown above really should be replaced IMO. Lock and Stitch is a special type of locking thread( requires their own tooling drills and taps) system that pulls the two sides of the crack together. The old style tapered threaded stitch pins put some force on the repaired crack.
  16. Dodgeb4ya
    Today's import tubes are extremely low quality....and are of super thin material..half as thick as original rubber tubes. To prevent abrasion failure leakage remove all labels on the inside of tire casings.
  17. Dodgeb4ya
    http://www.locknstitch.com/index.html Not cheap!
  18. Dodgeb4ya
    JB will not stop that crack from leaking. You can try magic sealers but after awhile they will leak. A common cause of a crack close to the head deck area is tightening head bolts or studs to tight... That crack will move during hot and cold cycles....sealant won't work well. To do it right so it will not leak..... Lock and Stitch Block Repair or a system similar.
  19. Dodgeb4ya
    Oil Eater works excellent in the Ultrasonic box. Cleaned a lot of parts including carbs. Excellent for cleaning grease out from under the nails too.
  20. Dodgeb4ya
    The "Story of the Carburetor" Mr Tech is a very good watch if available online. Sorry for the sideways pics.
  21. Dodgeb4ya
    JB Weld can easily be chipped, sanded or ground off....even heat above 400 degree's it weakens quickly. Anyway if you seal the front of the shaft/case remember the shaft is driven to the rear of the case...it will pound out just fine.
  22. Dodgeb4ya
    I had a D41 3 passenger coupe. Never had a damper. The original engine was very smooth running.
  23. Dodgeb4ya
    Could be the FD coupling too. I have replaced two of them because of vibration. I have also seen rebuilt FH engines that had been rebuilt with mid throttle annoying vibrations. Both with replaced connecting rods.
  24. Dodgeb4ya
    Yes we can do that...time it right and I can show you a couple nice big Airflows too!
  25. Dodgeb4ya
    And one here too.
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