Dodgeb4ya

I don't think anyone makes interior kits for 1946-48 Chrysler's...The carpet was hogshair with a sparse white fleck through it. Bill Hirsch use to sell it...not sure if anymore.. The lower line Royal's used a rubber mat in the front floor area....carpet in the back. Trunk was a woven mat..some models used a rubber mat like in the 3 passenger cpe. There is a guy selling the trunk woven mats online....either ebay or elsewhere.

It's wonderful you prove these MoPar flatheads are very reliable by driving yours every week in all weather conditions. As originally built with no modern high tech ignition or fuel system... Stock brakes, transmission and suspension too! Always enjoy your posts!

My higher end 1950 Chrysler's ... ( NewYorker/Town and Country) came from the factory with the super thick sound deadener on the underside of the floor pan....none at all on the frame or gas tank. It's also found inside of the doors and 1/4 panels...also on the underside of the trunk lid and on the floor. It makes a huge difference in the noise level inside of the car.

Very effective with the proper woven lining and adjusted right.

A lot of guesses but no correct answers. I'll add another wild ass guess to it.....I don't think it's MoPar.

If it runs well I would not get into putting a different carb on it. Rust on the base means possibly icing up at times in cold weather...caused by a stuck heat riser. The carb looks pretty clean and might of already had a back yard rebuild with a too high of float setting or a slightly leaky needle and seat after engine shut down. Leaking a small amount of fuel down onto the throttle plate and shaft....that being probably what you are seeing. Also the carb top cover looks to be sweating a very small amount of fuel too. The carb top needs to be sanded flat on a piece of glass. Easy commonly done fix on the B&B 1 barrel carbs. These carbs are very easy to rebuild....if you know what to do and how to do it. And...they work very well and trouble free when serviced right.

I have never seen a clip like that on any 1946-52 MoPar car/ truck or in a parts list photo. I agree as to being a linkage clip. Maybe for a Frasier.?

Thanks for the great educational reading Rich! I love reading old technical bulletins.

It is a cable tach drive. This engine has the cast housing adapter tach drive. The other style tach drive is built right into the distributor like in my "Big Red" truck.

This is a pic of a DT 413 six.... The engine block has extra lower reinforcement to support the crankshaft journal webbing. Also adds extra stiffness to the block in general. Seven main bearings. Tocco hardened crank, Nickel Chrome Molybdenum block/head etc. Hydraulic lifters. The design of this engine looks similar to the large displacement engines of the 30's that Chrysler built. The Chrysler straight eights... 323, 385 are designed very similar to the above moly block 413. The 385 had nine main bearings...the 323 had five. The 413 shown above has seven main bearings. 3" main journals. This engine weighs right at 1100 lbs. When I can get to it I'll load some pics of the Chrysler eights...

A quicker way to remove the body....

Never have had any issues with any the B&B carbs on any of my 1948 - 53 MoPar cars and trucks over the last 40 years. All work fine..have rebuilt them in the past...simple fast and easy. Now as to the Stromberg Fluid Drive carbs...after many miles...they belong in the recycle bin.

That B-4-HMA should have a 250 ci engine in it from the factory.

Pull the front drum grease cap off...many magnetic caster/camber gauges attach magnetically directly to the machined surrounding flat area where the grease cap fits.

BTW.....This post/thread should be moved/combined with the same in the truck section.

Saddle tanks...right/left were offered as an option too.

B3J truck tank is the same as a 1948-52 pick up. A 1953 B4 tank is slightly different in the fuel line pick up tube. Pickup is at the top on B4 trucks. Moparpro......? Supposedly has the correct tanks for the B series trucks. Will be $$$$$$

You have to use the correct bulb for that E-Brake light....not very common one either. Wrong bulb could be your issue. The correct bulb is a 6V # 1110.. Double filament 21/21 CP is required.

Is it a pea green or dark blue 39 convert? A friend of mine had both in Seattle.

Maybe a MaxJax would be better...depending on concrete etc... https://www.maxjax.com/?gclid=CjwKCAiAjeSABhAPEiwAqfxURWZKcV0pq2Dz1OPfnEwMaLlRCp2oDHgy78qRz6gti4JzWKD8crzHNBoCKksQAvD_BwE

The single blue fuel tank sender wire (1949-52) ends up at the back of the fuel gauge...usually goes up thru the drivers side roof.... down "A" pillar on to gas gauge...look for the blue wire.

Yes has to be the long one. I pulled it off the chrysler six...part # 667515 and 516. 7" OAL with 7-3/4" and 4-1/4" block to lower bell housing bolt holes ...center of hole to center of hole. .

Plastic in-line fuel filter and plastic oil lines seem like a great upgrade to me. Probably upgrade the steel and rubber oil gauge line to plastic too. Doesn't require much knowledge or effort either. A common way of doing things these days.?

I will do that later today.

I doubt many of the bigger trucks back in the 40's/50's not doing long hauls had the tires balanced. Speeds were not high enough.