Dodgeb4ya
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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya
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Your carburetor should be a Carter 1 BBL model E7A1. This is stamped into the carb air horn top. Angle portion.
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D30 rims were probably 4-1/2" wide as from the factory.
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Chrysler frame mount booster cars are supposed to have only a single 1/4" brake line from the booster to only a single rear port master cylinder...NOT A DOUBLE PORT cylinder. Also it is correct to see the smaller 1/8" brake fluid return line from the booster to the top of the master cylinder reservoir. Your 1949 Chrysler has the internal valved "Vacu-Ease" booster. Rebuild parts as far as I know are not available. I have never found parts for mine.
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On the pedal return I was thinking...a long shot for sure...that a slight bind twist on the bearing sleeve because of a new spring or too strong of spring. There must be a feeling thru the clutch pedal with the noise. I don't think it's the bearing either...
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Was the noise why you did the clutch work? Have you carefully watched the bearing,cross shaft fork and clutch PP cover while someone operates the clutch? The bearing sleeve sldes smoothly on the lubed trans..... bearing retainer? It is an odd noise.
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Thanks to the site and everyone!
Dodgeb4ya replied to NiftyFifty's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Best use of an old flathead block I've ever seen.....awesome job! -
Possibly the more common style 1946-48 solid window roller steel wheels would work? Tonight I will post pictures of them separately and installed.
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Pictures please...
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Going around a corner and dropping out of high or not upshifting is a sure sign of low trans fluid. Certain bare trans wiring can ground out causing a downshift or prevent a upshift. Oily governor contacts will cause erratic shifting problems too.
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Check the transmission oil level .
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They are stamped DCPD.
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The shim is a hack clearance fix...but done back in the day. Mother MoPar in the books says do not shim flathead bearing inserts.
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This style is only used on over head valves...
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The number behind the WP probably means nothing now days....maybe to the manufacturer. Did you look for #'s behind the starter and rear or around the distributor?
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The water pump /aluminum bypass on a straight 8 is bigger than all the six cylinder flathead six engines.... Didn't know anyone made the eight cylinder bypass...
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Nope...My Old Mopar Will Not Leave The Garage This Week!
Dodgeb4ya replied to keithb7's topic in Off Topic (OT)
Cool here in the East Seattle area...90 degree's...heat wave over? -
Exact location of stamped bin on left rear frame above the axel
Dodgeb4ya replied to Mjh's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Deleted. -
Yes it's true...Darrel the owner closed it up....older and retired.?
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As mentioned the pipe should extend 1/2" up into the manifold as originally designed. Also the original flange was approximately 1/2" thick steel not 3/8" typically supplied today in the repop market. Without the pipe extension into the manifold and the thinner flange steel which curls when tightened both cause the gasket to leak.
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The straight 8's come alive from 40 mph on up to 70 mph. The rear axle ratio should be a 3.54. After you have thoroughly road tested it oil pressure stays at 45-50 above 15-20 mph drive it at 60+....have fun with it! Slow around the corners though?
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I wouldn't transport an engine on a stand either...too risky.
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Nothing like driving a long hood Chrysler st⁸raight eight long hood down a long windy farm river road...
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1946-48 Chrysler, DeSoto, Dodge and Plymouth six cylinder cars all use the same 17 gallon gas tank. And cannot be sure but maybe same back to 1941 or 42.
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This is what you will see on your straight 8 damper...after lots of sanding and using brake cleaner to clean 100% still being barely able to read the marks. All straight 8's are very very lightly and very poorly stamped . Shown is a magnified close up. Too bad you did not do it with the radiator out. 1949-50 Chrysler 8's are tight down at the crank pulley area. Access is very poor.
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Help me understand door adjustment.
Dodgeb4ya replied to Los_Control's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Clean metal...metal ground bare and bright...proper fit up...good equipment..proper machine settings...good training and practice and gas.... makes for good wire feed welding.
