ptwothree

Back in '67 or '68, motoring along minding my own business, a local city cop stopped me 'cuz my licence light was too BRIGHT! He also informed me that me and my car at the time, a '57 jacked up Ford hot rod with a primer grey bubble scoop, remember those, answered the description of a burglary suspect. So ....one shake down, 4 police cars and 45 minutes later, they decided I wasn't their guy. No ticket. Was sop for the cops back then. The good 'ol days........

No, looks like bare metal. That may or not be a problem. I figure it will be the next guy worry as I'm sure it will out live me. I keep the tank full when possible.

That's him. I bought one of those tanks....nice piece and fits well.

Mount the drivers seat over the front bumper.....watch the accident rates and cell phone usage go down.

I used a couple of dabs of chassis grease. It originally had grease packed in it that was hardened and dried. No wipers at all. I cleaned all the old crap out of it and greased up the vac chamber on both sides of the wiper/paddle gizmo and it worked like new. I think the grease helps seal the vac chamber and lubes the seals as well.

Too much work to clean 'em up.....looks like mine!

Me too!

Also, since the tank fitting is not threaded all the way to the seat, you will need to reuse or find a nut with a shoulder on it like in post #4. Without this feature, there is nothing bearing against the flared line so the line can not be tightened.

'48 Hudsons had 'em. Vacuum with a separate control knob.

Mopar housings for V8 engines from the 70's use one that will work on the '51 and '52 models if that helps. I think they changed the housing later on in the 50's sometime to accommodate a lower hood profile....

What is a "flangette"? Where would one obtain one? Pics?

Pretty sure they are both 1/8" npt. I'm doing this same thing myself using a Wix 24755 adapter and a wix 51320 or napa 1320 spin on filter with 90 degree fittings on the adapter.

I bought and installed this same tank...I posted some pics of the new and old. Only complaint I have is he lowered the price just after I purchased mine for $249. The local radiator shop wanted $200 just to clean and seal the old one. So not a bad deal. Btw...my old tank just has some very light surface rust on the inside and no pin holes...if anyone is interested.

I fixed the link to the pics...should be visible now.

This is the one that keeps out junk that gets between the jacket and shaft. Keeps that crap from falling into the steering box. The factory seal was very brittle so I came up with this:

I made two spacers this afternoon. Makes installing the brackets very easy.

Not sure....just hope you are good at rust repair. Probably new floors at the least.

Simple...Take off the air cleaner, do not start the engine, run the fuel pump and look down into the carb. If gas is flowing, then there is too much pressure. This is assuming the float is adjusted properly. I like to go 1/8" lower then spec as that seems to work better with today's lousy gas. Adjustable regulators that mount in front of the carb are available.

If the backfire is during acceleration, it's a timing or fuel or intake valve problem and will go pow in the intake manifold/carb area. If popping is heard while the engine is decelerating, it is usually caused by an exhaust leak.

Will these fit a P-23?

With the plugs out and the brakes released, put it in 3rd gear and rock the car back and forth...see if the engine turns.

I'm so old, I remember when rims were wheels.

There are two adjustments. One for bearing preload and one for free play. The measurements are taken at the steering wheel rim with the pittman arm disconnected. The specs and procedure for doing this op are in the shop manual.

I'm going thru my steering box right now....here's what I'm using. This is for a '51 or'52 cranbrook. Sector shaft seal. Two will fit.Nat. oil seal #240356 is the thin one and #474278 is the thicker one at.250". That is the one I'm using. Gaskets.. worm cover plate. I removed the three gaskets and measured the thickness. Bought some gasket material at the parts house and made new ones. These have to be the same thickness as the old gaskets to maintain steering shaft end play. If you are changing out the bearings, then you will have to reset end play via these gaskets. I'm going to use a little Permatex #2 there as well. There is also a seal that keeps stuff from inside the steering jacket from falling into the insides of the box. The stock one on mine was falling apart. So I'm using Nat seal # 470567. This fits the steering shaft and is retained by the spring that held the original on in place. All this should work on your p15. Hope this helps!

All you need to stop the leak is a sector shaft and bushings in good condition along with a proper oil seal. All of these steering boxes you have mentioned have sector shafts that interchange. One of them should be good. If the bushings are shot, new ones are available. Why do you want to replace the steering box? 1949/1952 Plymouth and Dodge boxes are the same.