ptwothree
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Everything posted by ptwothree
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That's why the push for power steering in the early 50's to counteract the upcoming even heaver cars later that decade.
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Heat is one thing.....Heat + Humidity is a real bummer!
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Here's mine....Wix 24755 . The filter is a napa 1320 spin on bypass.
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You might check with "Astro Auto Electric" located in Lomita (310 325 1777) They might be able to convert your 6 volt to a 12 volt. I worded there many years ago so things might have changed some.
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Would a 6 volt coil survive on 12 volts through a Chrysler style ballast resistor??
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I sit corrected.....I'm 70 and my seal is not as effective as when I was younger.
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I didn't know that an accelerator pump is supposed to create vacuum....
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Most any parts store sell alignment tools for a couple of bucks. The one for my 218 was 1" x 10 tooth tool.
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Do I really need to have my radiator rodded?
ptwothree replied to '41 Fat Bottom Girl's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Not sure if a honey comb rad can be rodded out. -
Check the free play with the brake pedal. No free play will cause this.
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Stick a camera/phone up under the dash an take a pic of the back side of the instrument panel. Easy way to check the condition of the wiring around that area. Rotten wiring on a 60/70 year old car is standard equipment.
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That's how I did mine. Also, for the initial start up, set the pointer to 5 degrees before tdc then hook up a 6 or 12 volt bulb to the points side of the coil. Turn the dizzy till the bulb turns off then lock down the diz. With everything else hooked up, it should fire right up. Mine did.
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Worn out throttle shaft bushings can cause this too.
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I'd like to know what 12 volt motor out of what vehicle will interchange with the stock 6volt.....
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Forget about what's going on with #6...I think that is confusing you. What makes it go is the piston in #1 is at top dead center with both valves closed, pointer at '0' and the rotor pointing at 7 o'clock. With ignition, compression, correct firing order and fuel, it should fire right up.
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Ford used the same Gemmer box. Different housing. '41 to '48 have very similar worm and sectors. Looks like the gasket and bearing sets are the same too.The worm can be pressed off and a new one pressed on. I haven't seen these Ford parts in person but I'd check with a restoration parts house just to compare. You might want to post your location as the people on this forum have spares you might be able to make a deal with. I just went thru mine and took two boxes and make one good one.
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Yeah, I'm not too comfy with my 6 volt starter drive slamming the flywheel on 12 volts. Seems like a '56 12 volt starter is the fix vut are hard to find and $$$$ wdhen found. Maybe a shop could install 12 volt field coils but I haven't looked into that yet.
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Here's hoping your rehab and recovery goes well!
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Does anyone have a chart to convert 6 volt bulb numbers to 12 volt?
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Pull the #1 plug- Put your thumb over the hole and crank the engine till you feel compression pressure then stop cranking- look at the timing marks and pointer- rotate the crank till pointer lines up with "0". If the timing gears and chain are installed properly, you are now at top dead center compression stroke on #1 cyl. Install the dizzy with the rotor at 7 o'clock and there ya are.
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Tie a Dobie to the front bumper......
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I would opt to change to a 12 volt motor for the heater. Resistors run hot and is a mickey mouse way to solve a problem that is easily fixed. They run hot too...potential to burn down your ride. 6 volt gauge on 12 volts. Get a solid state 6 volt regulator. Part #7806. They are cheap at $3 bucks or so and will provide an unwavering 6 volts to your gauges. Simple to wire. Might need a very small heat sink as they don't produce the kind of heat a resistor would. I have done this and it works great! This is what I have used to run 6 volt gauges on 12v https://www.engineersgarage.com/electronic-components/7806-ic
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Unless this is a concours project, most housings from 60's thru 70's V8 mopars will work just fine. Under $10...chrome will be more. Works with internal bypass so it may or may not work depending on what you have.
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I have a problem with carburation and/or fuel delivery
ptwothree replied to 51PlymouthFastback's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Check the rubber hose that connects the fuel supply line to the pump for cracks. Could be sucking in air instead of gas. I had a similar problem years ago and a new hose solved it. -
I just put a floor jack under the lca and took out the 4 bolts holding the uca to the frame. Then just lower the jack and the spring comes out nice and easy. Chaining it to the frame is a good move too.
