Jump to content

ptwothree

Members
  • Posts

    659
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by ptwothree

  1. What seal are you using. Sector shafts are interchangeable. You might be able to use the better of the two shafts along with the right seal to solve your problem and keep the '50 column. Roberts motor parts or bernbaum have bushings, bearings and such. I'm currently using the best parts from two boxes and cutting my own gaskets.
  2. Try this....Insert the steering shaft/ worm assembly with bearings into the box. Temporarily install the steering wheel. It only goes on one way. When it lines up the way you want it, drop in the sector shaft so it engages the worm gear. Mine is all apart now, need to make a new gasket and paint the whole mess then assemble. If you come up with a better way, let us know. Btw...I'm using 90 wt oil in mine as I noticed that the sector has roller bearings that might be hard to lube with grease as others have used here.
  3. It also keeps debris that gets into the steering tube from diluting the gear box lube.
  4. Here is what mine looked like...seal the steering shaft. I can only guess it is there to keep oil from getting into the steering wheel / horn button area and leaking 90 wt during shipping. Can't see oil working it's way up there when it's installed in the car.
  5. I'm in the middle of refurbishing a steering box and need some help. Can't find the shaft seal that seals the column to the box. I have a '51 and a '52 box I'm working on. The '52 was dry as a bone when disassembled and that seal crumbled to bits when I removed it. The '51 was half full of oil and most of the parts are in good condition cept this seal. I has no part # on it and is very brittle. I'd sure like to find a replacement but so far no luck. Btw...Most of the seals listed at Rockauto for these boxes are for power steering boxes. I'll have a write up when it's back together including part #'s. Any help with this will be much appreciated!
  6. They are an Acme thread...but I don't know the size.
  7. I would also check the fuel pressure at the carb inlet whether you choose to run a stock carb or the one you already have.
  8. My 218 crank had what looks like poc marks, small depressions, around the circumference of where the main seal would be. These looked like factory markings. This on a standard size crank. My guess is they are there to hold a small amount of lube for the seal, be it rope or neoprene.
  9. Update: I haven't decided on where the windshield rubber will come from. But I got some new body mount rubber from Robert's. They are sized differently from stock and $9 for two but will work with some mods. There is a hole where the steel sleeve and bushing go thru that is larger then stock. So a new piece of tubing, cut to length, and new 7/16" cap screws, 3/8 are stock, and it will work. I still have to replace the ones at the very back just aft of the gas tank.
  10. Unless it's a total rust bucket or it is totaled, bent frame etc. I would not part it.
  11. Might have some junk in the gas tank after all this time.
  12. You didn't pay THAT mechanic with trust to "go thru" your engine. You probably paid with cash or something like it. If he delivered an engine with a knock in, you should be hot on his or her tail to make it right. Just my 2 sense.....
  13. I like the way you went about lowering your ride. The right combo of parts. I seem to remember a friend of mine from long ago, liked to use 4" rear blocks and a torch on the front to get "the stance". Turned a mediocre handling car into a real pig. I was no better....long shackles and coil spring spacers for that "gasser" look. Looked good but a wild ride in a corner. How we survived? I still don't have a clue! I would bet that your wagon handles nice....watch out for the speed bumps
  14. Check out "the hamb". There are threads that are devoted to 'the lowered car'..Not my thing, but, to each his own.....
  15. Yup....The few ruining things for the many....lots of that going around these days. So sorry to hear of this..........
  16. Thanks for the reply's. Andy, I can't imagine trying to deal with a vendor from as far away as you are. I'm more concerned with the fit and quality of the windshield gasket as that has to be right. Doing a search here, it seems not to many are happy, a few were, with the offerings from Ab, nothing from Roberts and some were happy with Steele. I know if I call each one I'll be told what a great product they have, so that isn't much help. The body mounts (rubber biscuits) are a little more generic as opposed to the w/s gasket which is model and year specific. Anyone get a w/s gasket that works like it should?
  17. Finally got around to installing the engine and trans for my '52 Cranbrook. Noticed a few clearance problems involving the throwout fork and floor pan. Also the bell housing and trans to floor pan is really tight. With new motor mounts installed, it looks like the rubber body mounts are in need of replacing. Found some new ones at Roberts and AB.....about the same price. Just wondering if one vendor has it over the other as far as quality and and willingness to make it right if they ship the wrong ones. I've decided to go with Steele for the windshield gasket. Anyone buy from these guys?
  18. Anyone know of a source for a 1" carb spacer for a carter bb? Or is this a diy project. Looking to use it as a drill and tap mount for a pcv valve. I don't want to reinvent the wheel in case one exist all ready.
  19. Rislone freed up an intake valve stuck open....Engine sat around for a long time after a rebuild. Would toss gas and backfire thru the carb on acceleration.. Poured a half qt thru the carb at fast idle. Choked the engine till it quit running with the last inch or so in the can. Let it soak in overnite. Fired it up the next day and it was cured. Ran really well after that. That was 51 yrs ago. The EPA types would object today as it gets pretty smokey for the first five minutes or so!
  20. I just did mine last week. The upper had some play that disappeared after I tightened up the pinch bolt.
  21. Yes. It's a square cut cork gasket. 1st pic above. Fits in the groove. I'm taking it to the hardware store to get a rubber gasket in case I need one in the future. Also comes with a new clamping ring but the stocker is a better (tighter) fit with the cork gasket.
  22. Ordered this thru Rockauto on the advice of one of the other members. Only mods are a trimming of the straight edge of the sender body and flatting out of the locating tab. The float will point just to the right of the stock filter that sits almost dead center. Next chore is to calibrate this to the guage, then paint and reinstall with a new fuel line. $43 w/tax. This is listed as fitting a '73 jeep Wagoneer.
  23. The shiny area is where I hit it with a wire wheel just to clean it up for the pic. The issue is that both upper and lower retaining nuts were finger tight. I replaced the lower pin and bush assembly on the drivers side. It came with a castellated nut. If I can't find any then I guess it'll be done up with Locktite and the 'shake proof' washers. Andydodge....Thanks for the explanation on the use of Acme threads on these parts...makes sense!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use