JBNeal

This is a common problem when ppl try to duplicate obsolete decals when using fonts available on graphics programs. The fonts used here, though similar, are not close enough to be accurate to the original artwork.

I looked in the parts manual to verify that there was a change to the lower toe board and transmission cover, and it appears that there was a serial number break in the B-2s for the updated parts. B-1/early B-2 (3spd shown): later B-2/B-3/B-4 (3spd column shift shown):

I decided to keep busy on Election Night by listening to some tunes and tracing the original decal on the Deluxe Filter...easier said than done. The decal tracing was like trying to write on 80 grit sandpaper, but 4 hours later, I have a good start for a reproduction. I would prefer to get this into a digital format now that I have a 2D representation to work with, but that's not going to happen for awhile with my upcoming work requirements...maybe next month

I had some time the other day to do some cleanup during decent weather to show off a few details. The remnants of the back window and headliner panels appear to be the light grey as described in Bunn's Bible, to contrast with the door panel's maroon color. The paint break on the cab is kinda uneven...I reckon if these areas are gonna be covered with hood lacing and out of sight, then the guys in the paint shop just slapped some masking on as needed and moved onto the next job, something similar to what I saw on my '90 Ramcharger's 2-tone brown paint break inside the rear hatch.

depending on your wheelbase, removing and installing the fuel tank is similar to changing fluorescent light bulbs in recessed housings: it takes some finagling cuz it's not a straight shot

verified in the parts manual, '51-'53 temperature gauges were in Fahrenheit or Centigrade...I believe the switch to the relative scale was done with the C-series.

I live in an area blessed with high humidity and scorching heat 6-8 months out of the year, so paper products sag from the moisture then disintegrate from the oven environment...metals and plastic interior parts last longer, but the plastic, not so much if in direct sunlight ?

Those are pinned threads that are at the top of the truck forum, some have not been active in years...gotta scroll past those to see the recently active threads. I bypass the pinned threads by going to the forum main page, and click on the date of the recent post for any forum, which takes me to that last post...after reading that, I scroll down to the Next Unread Topic link, then repeat til I'm all caught up

Ball & Ball carbs are OK and a nice bulky novelty, but them Stromberg WWs really breathe...one of my projects will be getting this upgrade to get that extra hp ?

When I mentioned Marvel Mystery Oil, it was because it works in many ways. I have been using it since the 90s in flatheads, as well as lawn equipment that sits idle for days/weeks. It stabilizes ethanol fuels, lubricates fuel pump and carburetor innards, reduces fouling in carburetor passages, fuel lines, and fuel bowls...this all leads to reduced starting times, putting less wear on batteries and starters, as well as immediate engine lubrication. Engine idle is smooth year 'round, and startup after storage is much quicker than without MMO. I used Stabil for years, but MMO can be bought by the gallon and not only used as a fuel treatment but as a potent penetrant on rusty fasteners, hinges, pivot points, etc. The startup after long storage on MMO is shockingly shorter than with Stabil, last time I checked it was a 5 second crank after 2 months of storage with MMO vs about a minute with Stabil. I also use MMO with each tank on the QuadCab, as well as the CaseIH, New Holland, and John Deere tractors, all running on diesel. Some ppl think they can make their own mixture with acetone + ATF, but the MMO comes in a handy transparent red plastic gallon jug that can be reused or recycled. From a chemical standpoint, I believe the light lubricants in MMO bond with the ethanol to form a different hydrocarbon that does not flash off readily, inherently maintaining the fuel's octane/cetane number...but that's just the word on the street P.S.: I purchase the smaller bottles of Marvel Mystery Oil as they are graduated for easier dispensing, and use them marked bottles for about a year or two, until the locking plastic cap starts to get difficult to remove. The small bottles can be refilled with the gallon jug, which saves a few bucks annually. I doctor gas cans and diesel storage as directed for bulk storage. I even reused an empty Stabil graduated squeeze bottle to fill with MMO, and wrote the dosage amount on the bottle...this smaller bottle works great for the 1 gallon fuel can I use for mixed fuels for the chainsaw, weedeater, etc

I've seen guys make glove boxes out of metal and plastic waste baskets...I can tell ya them cardboard glove boxes are real nice, but only for a few days

that cab's condition could be that it's well ventilated and has plenty of drainage ?

Skip the lead additive and put Marvel Mystery Oil in each tank per directions with any gasoline blend...it'll keep the fuel pump and carburetor gum-free and well lubricated, making for quick startups that benefit the starter and battery life

the alphanumeric above the date has something to do with the casting that I'm unsure of its meaning; there is a similar alphanumeric that appears on the head casting...both have part numbers cast into them as well. I'm not too savvy on pre-War engines, but post-War engines ya have to reference engine casting dates to determine which rear main seal to use, as well as which head gasket, as there was a significant change for '51 and up.

blue block date is May 14, 1952 rusty block date looks like March 28 but the year appears obscured or has eroded away...might need to wire brush another 3" towards the rear of the block to see any 2-digit year.

After digging through a google search, I found Arizona Parts Interchange: Mopar 672969 ==> Mopar 1139316 ==> Mopar 2409826 ==> Dorman 611-027 Mopar 672970 ==> Mopar 1139317 ==> Mopar 2409827 ==> Dorman 611-026

that replacement felt can be bought in rolls, but if yours are intact, they can be soaked in parts cleaner for several days, then wrung out by placing a heavy weight on top, repeat as necessary...

I am reminded of the used electric golf cart that Dad got for Mom when her knees started giving her trouble when she tried to get around their place. It worked for about a year then THPPPPPTTT. I get the call, take a look at a whole mess of extra wiring that bypassed the dc-dc converter, did some research and a little testing, found out that converter (replacement cost $300) was kaput, extra wiring duplicated almost the entire wiring harness to charge the 4 batteries (replacement cost $300 each)...but the converter was able to charge each battery equally, whereas the extra wiring only charged one battery, ultimately killing the other 3 batteries prematurely. To make matters worse, I figured out that the several hundred feet of extra wire added was basically only doing the work of a 2ft long jumper wire added to the original harness to bypass the converter Knowing how many old fixer uppers that I've looked at with wiring harnesses that resemble a rat's nest, and how easy it is to screw up the batteries and charging system on electric vehicles, I'd be reeeeally leery of any rebuilt electric vehicle in any form...EV system replacement parts get expensive in a hurry ?

additional information - oil pressure gauge ferrule replacement

additional information - oil pressure gauge ferrule replacement

Posting a pic of the area of confusion might allow for further insight beyond the prior information linked.

additional information - duplicate thread

additional information - B-series Express model fuel tank comparison additional information - B-series Express model fuel tank replacement additional information - Gas Tank Renu Testimonial

additional information - door check retainer replacement

there are several varieties of truck bell housings that differ in length and transmission mounts...not all bell housings are created equal.