JBNeal

additional information - double clutch shifting by feel

additional information - welch plug installation

I had been contemplating getting an oscillating tool for years but couldn't justify the expense...until last summer, when one of my elderly widow neighbors hired me to replace her 3 garage doors from the 80s that were falling apart. There was considerable water damage at the base of the door trim that extended upwards 24" that needed to be removed, and it wasn't until I got into it that I realized under all of those flaking off layers of paint that the majority of the trim work was 2x6 framing pine...apparently the doors were not framed correctly so the builders slapped 2x6s over the huge gaps and called it good. So I needed to use something with more oomph than the wood chisels I had in order to make a lot of plunge cuts. I opted for a Dremel MM-50 as the angled head was perfect for getting in tight corners...the quick release blades were nice in that I could change the orientation of the blades to 90° as needed in corners. I let the blades do the work and took my time, went through a few blades in the process as they do wear out, but was quite pleased with the tool. I'm glad I had ear plugs for the work as plunge cutting can get quite loud

additional information - OSHA guidelines on split lock ring tire installation additional information - OSHA chart on split lock ring tire installation additional information - how to install tire on split lock ring rim additional information - split lock ring rim tire install demonstration additional information - split lock ring rim tire install anecdote

additional information - crank pulley nut

additional information - drop center replacement 1-ton wheels

additional information - brake sleeving testimonial

I gave up on the HAMB a few years ago when the inmates began running the insane asylum...shortly thereafter, photobucket decided to hold everyone's pics hostage with their bait and switch policy, so a LOT of useful information on the HAMB has lost its usefulness with the replacement of detailed pics with NOT AVAILABLE cards...what has been posted and linked to here fills in some gaps ?

Specifically, get a new generic gas cap that fits and has an economical price

200hp can be had but only in fantasyland...it takes work but 150hp is attainable ?

Them old cork gaskets get cracks in them when they dry out, so might as well replace'm all while ya can ?

what if ya sourced a replacement cap to swap out gaskets... ?

I remember reading about this on the HAMB about the same time as the linked post, where the machinist went into detail with sketches on original oil flow and modified oil flow...this was on a hot rod 230 where they also cross drilled the crankshaft to increase connecting rod oiling...effectively, the block was tapped for full flow oil filter port re-routing on the pump boss; the block pressure galley is bored out slightly to accept a concave plug, so that the plug is installed between the two new tapped ports; with the oil pump reinstalled, the concave plug blocks oil flow from traversing into the block internals directly, as oil flow is redirected out of the block to the full flow filter, then returns to the other tapped port to lubricate the block internals. I recall the HAMB machinist actually installed 2 concave plugs, doubled up for insurance. He reported later that engine ran like a scalded dog ?

additional information - full flow oil filter conversion at pump

YIKES...these disaster stories make me wonder if the orientation of the pump + the addition of the distributor amplifies something in these new oil pumps out of tolerance ?

Paint it blue so when ppl ask what you're a-doin' to that buggy, you can tell'm that you're gonna smurf it up

Be sure ya have that oil bath air filter clamp tightened down good before going for a shakedown cruise that involves a sharp right turn

The casting dates for the block and head are found along a vertical line with the distributor...dates that are within a few days of each other are likely indicative of a matched set... additional information - flathead identification additional information - engine casting painting additional information - forum flatheads

additional information - milling chart + volume verification

I believe if ya put a torque wrench on the belt pulley nut, with the spark plugs in place, the engine should only need 40-60 ft-lbs to turn...the high torque needed sounds like a spun connecting rod bearing, which effectively wedges the connecting rod on the crankshaft. As for costs of services, it varies from machine shop to shop sometimes depending on their work load...I had some head work done one year that was cheaper than my previous project as the guys were kinda slow that summer. Engine specs are in the factory shop manual, so ya need to study that to get started and check a few things before ya get it down to the machine shop. If the engine was bored, then the replacement pistons should be stamped on top their overbore, i.e. 030.

after looking a little closer at the connecting rod and cap pics, I see a few problems. Those connecting rod bearings should have a pronounced bent corner that locks into the corresponding notches on the cap and connecting rod, to keep the bearings from spinning when the caps are torqued down to the connecting rods. Also, the hole in those bearings should line up to the oil hole on the connecting rod. As for those strange marks, that appears to be a spalling defect, where the bearing material is actually coming apart...that could be from a manufacturing defect or poor quality, or from a lack of lubrication. Looks like ya caught a serious problem before it got ugly ?

Machine shops might be swamped this time of year, but ya might want to go all the way and strip that engine down, hot tank it, and get the block, head, and maybe crankshaft magnafluxed for cracks...I'd hate to see a ton of work put into an engine and the thing 'splode on a highway cruise outta town. As for valve guides, a quick rule of thumb is to pull the springs out and listen if the valves rattle in the guides when jiggled by hand...they're not supposed to be super tight but if I hear them clicking around, I replace them all. But definitely go over the entire engine with a fine tooth comb, checking for flaws and dims out of tolerance...it's way easier to deal with it now in it's stripped down state. Those pistons look OK, if there are scratches along the side or chunks missing from the ring areas, then those are kaput. If rings appear flawless (no cracks or carbon buildup or material missing), then they may be OK if they measure to specs...tho if the block needs to be honed because of cylinder taper, then you'll need new pistons and rings anyways. If ya had a way to accurately check the top of the block and the head with a true straight edge, that might be an option, but typically a machine shop has equipment that can do that by machining off .002" or so to clean up mating surfaces. Better yet, find a machine shop that can do the work, they can tell ya what they can do and go from there. Of course, then ya might get into the discussion of trying to get 9:1 CR, but that might be too aggressive. Lots to consider, but definitely consider looking at your CR to see if ya can squeeze a few more hp out of that flathead

one trick I picked up over the years while working on tractors with spin-on filters is to make a catch-carrier for a hot filter out of a plastic 1 gallon milk jug with a hole cut in the top/side that still retains the jug handle...the plastic is flexible enough that it can fit around a filter in a tight spot, break the filter loose then unscrew it, any spillage is contained by the jug, then the filter drops into the jug to be carried out by the jug handle. Used butter tubs, Cool-Whip containers, any type of plastic food container will do, but generally these types of plastics are not durable so they can only be used a time or 2. Gallon oil containers are more durable but less flexible, but may be used if the opening is cut adequately. This carrier helps to keep the oil spills to a minimum in the engine compartment and work floor ?

I took a look at one of my spare flatheads to jog my fuzzy memory...if the o-ring is a square profile, it looks like these 1.125" sections would go in that piece that is bolted into the block and through the timing chain cover: as for the pickup tube, it appears to have a tapered pipe thread into the block, so that would benefit from a quality thread sealant.

Could ya clarify the dimensions, material etc of these o-rings? What were the specific instructions included with the gasket set regarding the front main cap seals?