JBNeal

After digging through a google search, I found Arizona Parts Interchange: Mopar 672969 ==> Mopar 1139316 ==> Mopar 2409826 ==> Dorman 611-027 Mopar 672970 ==> Mopar 1139317 ==> Mopar 2409827 ==> Dorman 611-026

that replacement felt can be bought in rolls, but if yours are intact, they can be soaked in parts cleaner for several days, then wrung out by placing a heavy weight on top, repeat as necessary...

I am reminded of the used electric golf cart that Dad got for Mom when her knees started giving her trouble when she tried to get around their place. It worked for about a year then THPPPPPTTT. I get the call, take a look at a whole mess of extra wiring that bypassed the dc-dc converter, did some research and a little testing, found out that converter (replacement cost $300) was kaput, extra wiring duplicated almost the entire wiring harness to charge the 4 batteries (replacement cost $300 each)...but the converter was able to charge each battery equally, whereas the extra wiring only charged one battery, ultimately killing the other 3 batteries prematurely. To make matters worse, I figured out that the several hundred feet of extra wire added was basically only doing the work of a 2ft long jumper wire added to the original harness to bypass the converter Knowing how many old fixer uppers that I've looked at with wiring harnesses that resemble a rat's nest, and how easy it is to screw up the batteries and charging system on electric vehicles, I'd be reeeeally leery of any rebuilt electric vehicle in any form...EV system replacement parts get expensive in a hurry ?

additional information - oil pressure gauge ferrule replacement

additional information - oil pressure gauge ferrule replacement

Posting a pic of the area of confusion might allow for further insight beyond the prior information linked.

additional information - duplicate thread

additional information - B-series Express model fuel tank comparison additional information - B-series Express model fuel tank replacement additional information - Gas Tank Renu Testimonial

additional information - door check retainer replacement

there are several varieties of truck bell housings that differ in length and transmission mounts...not all bell housings are created equal.

Dad has one of these and it is ok but seems kinda wobbly / not sturdy. The casters do well on smooth concrete, but sidewalk finish is another story. I have found that clean cardboard works nicely to slide around on...snagging refrigerator boxes and boxes for assembled furniture (desks especially) works kinda good, with the additional benefit that if ya have your tools piled on the cardboard under the truck, you can slide out from underneath, then slide the cardboard out, grab your pile of tools and go ?

the engine block casting date is found below the distributor; the head casting date is found behind the ignition coil. additional information - Flathead Identification There may be an issue with the industrial cam as it was ground for basically 2 engine speeds: idle and WOT.

Cover should be removable in order to add/remove shims during adjustments, tho have something ready to take the cover's place while working on the tube, could be as simple as threading 2 bolts on opposing holes and wrapping some wire around them. If the tube is tight on the plate, then ya should be able to simply apply a sealant like Permatex Gear Oil RTV as needed. Seal 19 appears to keep fluids from going up into the steering shaft. B-series truck steering gearboxes are of a similar design and do not have this seal.

When I see something like this with an asking price of $X500, I'd pay that price only if there was an aluminum briefcase on the front seat filled with X grand in non-sequential Hamiltons...high prices keep away the tire kickers and only the talented negotiators step up, with the gift of gab to drive a good bargain and folding $$$ to back it up. The only time I have attempted to negotiate with a platinum dealer such as this was when I spotted the Spring Special in a Craigslist ad for a '54 Dodge pickup, price $1. When I showed up to survey this diamond in the rough, that geezer said he'd take 3 grand for it, with no title nor key nor tires that would hold air long enough to roll onto a trailer. We chatted a bit, agreed on a price, and when I showed back up with the trailer a few days later, he knocked another 200 hunnert off the price, which was still a few hunnert more than I wanted to pay for the beast...but this ol' geezer was obviously in bad health, so I justified the extra expense for his last case of Jack before he started pushing up daisies. Sure enough, a few months later, his daughter calls me up to tell me of his demise and tried to talk me into buying more of his stuff. Apparently, of all the "treasures" on his property, I was the only taker. And so it goes...

when did the "mark as solved" thread feature go away?

On the trucks, the contact kinda wedges in the insulator, especially if the contact is not straight. Since the insulator floats on the steering shaft nut, the steering wheel can be turned stop to stop with minimal twist of the wire. The wire itself had a bullet-style disconnect about 6" below where it exits through the steering gearbox, so that it could be replaced without hacking into the main wire harness on the trucks. On your application, that wire could be tied in a simple knot and/or wrapped in electrical tape to make it a tighter fit on your new insulator.

additional information - cowl vent operation

additional information - B-1 horn button assembly To replicate the horn wire contact, I bent a ring terminal as shown in the link...it's worked for going on 30 yrs. The bakelite insulator can be made from hobby store ABS plastic + epoxy, tho your hardware store sleeve looks to work nicely...as long as the plastic is hard enough to glide over the nut without snagging, it should last a good while

additional information - heater core and blower motor replacement

When I'd wind up to 50mph, the 1-ton would be shaking from the tire flat spots from being parked for several days...by the time the flat spots were massaged out, it was time to punch out for the day. I had thought about doing the FSM static balancing on the truck, but that looks really tedious...doesn't sound like all that extra work would improve the ride any, since it cruised just dandy at 45mph on the lumpy backroads

this may or may not help: http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/manual/manual.htm

additional information - Gear Oil RTV

how do ya balance the tires? Do you have a static balancer?

That Cordoba was part of Chrysler's alternative fuel program, along with their turbine engine development with roots in the 50s...turbines were shelved during the '82 bankruptcy so Chrysler could focus resources on K-cars and the almost-ready minivans, and once the company paid back the government loans, the alternative fuel program was restarted. As for the Chrysler-Volkswagen relationship, they worked together to get the Omni/Horizon to market with early versions powered by VW until the Chrysler 2.2L was ready...this car was based on a Simca design, which was the basis for the Rabbit/Golf. One concept we played with in the late 90s was based on modern diesel locomotive powertrains. Diesel trains are actually powered by electric traction motors with a battery bank recharged by diesel generators, which are much larger versions of generators used to power portable arc welding equipment. On FWD minivans, there was adequate space to power the rear wheels with electric motors, and we were looking at control systems to kill the ICE to allow electric propulsion as well as using the ICE to maintain battery voltage levels in conjunction with regenerative braking and using the ICE for power boosts such as merging with highway traffic. While working on the start/stop function, crude oil markets tanked, and the decision was made to work on something else...fast forward about 20 years, and start/stop began showing up on ICE products, which was nice to see that part of the concept didn't evaporate. So it looks like this concept might be becoming reality in the near future, as SUVs have adequate room to package more robust hybrids than small cars.

Without boring the masses with all of the details, the US was on its way to reliable domestic hybrid electric and full electric cars in the 90s, but then the price of oil dipped below $20/bbl, and all of those projects were shelved, with resources reallocated to building highly profitable muscle cars, pickups and SUVs...so profitable that the poorly managed Big 3 were pleading poverty within a decade. EV1 was successful but costs were prohibitive at the time, though GM was looking at leases instead of sales with the balance to come from DOE grants and tax incentives that eventually evaporated. Chrysler had several hybrids in Neons and Caravans, but Daimler considered these a waste of time, eliminating those development programs. Battery technology was turning the corner, with lithium ion being challenged by a new lightweight environmentally friendly design that required a space age material developed in a zero-g environment, but again DOE funding evaporated and licensing patents were purchased by large battery companies who have sat on those patents for 2 decades. Infrastructure is the biggest hurdle now, as this is government regulated and energy companies are currently not incentivized to update anything. An emerging technology would effectively turn paved roads into electrified trolley tracks, but this would require massive government investment in an era where there has been no Congressional budget in a decade, so that technology may never materialize. Self-driving cars are coming, which somewhat coincides with GM's move away from hydrocarbon fuels, but there are sure to be legal challenges to overcome with liability on property loss and casualties...there might be something like the part-time autonomy in the works like what was seen in Demolition Man. None of this is gonna happen overnight, as there is a LOT of $$$ involved, so the change in technology will be spoon-fed to the masses over time...