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Sienile

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  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    Not mine, but working on a '48 Highlander.

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  • Biography
    Mechanic by necessity, not by choice.
  • Occupation
    mechanic

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  • Location
    ATL
  • Interests
    Not getting tetanus. Wish me luck. :P

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  1. Can't I just bypass the built-in relay and power the solenoid directly? Why would you need to bypass the ballast on startup? Wouldn't that fry the condenser? Looking into the process, I figure it'd just be better to grab one of the 12v ready Langdon's. http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/#!/Stovebolt-Mopar-Mini-HEI-with-Square-Coil-Included/p/1222043/category=18665978 I figure it'd cost about the same and doesn't run the risk of me destroying parts I need for it like the guy that made the guide did.
  2. Thanks for this info. Is the slant 6 distributor able to bolt straight up? Already 12v?
  3. Yeah, I know the starter itself is fine with 12v negative ground. That's how I test cranked the engine. Only concerned about the carb and distributor with reversing the ground. He's getting a full custom gauge set, so all of that is already made for 12v. And lights don't care what you feed them, except for his headlights which will be 12v LEDs.
  4. Well, crap... More missing parts to hunt down. Between the 2 cars, only 1 had inner fenders and, aside from a battery tray I would not trust to hold my coffee cup, they were bare. Got a link to that book? I searched through their site and couldn't find it. Nevermind. Found it here: Very glad I asked, then. I seem to have the complete engine bay side of the oil tube, but it looks like it's been repaired relatively recently because the hose looks almost new.
  5. These things had brake pressure switches? Just amazing how technically advanced this car is for its time. But I think for reliability and easier replaceability I'll make a pedal switch setup for it. Last thing he'd want is that diaphragm leaking.
  6. The tube coming off the carb on both engines was not connected. This seems like it is the same tube. Is that correct? And here's the transmission. Stamp on the right of the bellhousing says: 868751-5 W9
  7. I was told the engine was rebuilt a year or two ago but has never been ran since the rebuild. First task was to make sure it wasn't locked up. Hooked a battery box to it and had to crowbar the solenoid since it was seized. It spun, but it was slow. I figure the oil dropped out of the rings, so it will get a good oil soak before the next crank. A different engine isn't going to cut it for this guy's desires. The whole reason he wants it done is because his parents had one when he was little, so the sound of the engine is going to be a big thing to him. Plus he already spent on rebuilding the block. He does want A/C, which is beyond the scope of the work I'm doing. I know that's going to require custom brackets to make work with this engine, and I am not a welder. I could probably handle the rest of that task, but all I'm supposed to do is run the wiring for it. I got a few pictures of the carb, trans, and a few other things of interest. Got to do some downsizing and multi-posting to get them all uploaded. I'm guessing there's a switch somewhere on the transmission that I haven't seen yet for this to hook to? In my digging around for info I heard of something like a startup choke. I'm guessing this is it since the other is for the transmission. The post said it goes to one of the small terminals on the starter, but didn't say which. Does it matter? If so, which one: block or fender side? I know going with 12v I will need to step down the current going to both of these. Will they operate on reverse polarity? If possible, I was going to wire everything up as negative ground.
  8. Owner wants to be able to put in modern accessories, so the decision to go 12v was already made before I became involved. It's only a headache once.
  9. I did have a pic of the engine before I started. I forgot it had a carb on it, but it was seized up. Anyway, I do see that the part I was talking about is not the choke. I see that on the manifold. The parts I'm talking about are on the actual carb itself. This is a horrible picture of it and I'll get better ones tomorrow. One of the parts is partially visible at the very top of the pic. That rusty oval piece on top of the carb. That's the one that had the wire crimped directly to it.
  10. I saw your guide on the choke posted in the above mentioned thread and will be reading through it tonight. I'm confident in my abilities, I just need the knowledge. This Chrysler is WAY more complex than the similarly aged Chevys I've done. Those I could have cranked on a stand with only power to the starter and coil. Actually, they also had hand cranks, so starter was optional. This is the first time I've seen a carb with multiple wires coming from it. Know a good source for the manual? Stuff this old isn't even on AllData's radar. Owner knows it's a money pit. Apparently he doesn't care. He just wants it for pure nostalgia. He's one of those types with a 4 car garage in his backyard and a 2 car attached to the house. The guy that's doing the interior reupholstery is the one that brought me on and he gave him a price that he's fine with. Other guy bailed after stripping everything down. I'm only there to do the wiring and get the engine going and you can (or at least could a couple years ago) buy a decent used car for the price I gave him for that work. If the parts put the project overbudget, that's between him and the owner. And it might... that choke alone is $295, the cheapest price I've seen. ?
  11. Looks like I got some reading to do on old Chrysler tech. Thanks for giving me the names. I looked up the sission choke and found this thread: The one shown looks somewhat different. I'll have to get pictures of it tomorrow. But the solenoid can on top is not on the one I have. There is a insulated pin there that must connect to something inside, but doesn't look like it ever had anything outside, and the other terminal is the one with the wire crimped to it.
  12. Vehicle is a '48 Chrysler Highlander with the Spitfire straight 6. When the guy brought me to see it, it had absolutely no interior, no wiring, and most of the engine accessories are gone. Guy also owned another that was surprisingly in even worse shape, but had a few things the first was missing. So you know, it's not my car. The owner wanted it restored because his parents had one like it when he was young. If it were me, I'd hunt for one in much better shape. But he's already had the engine internals rebuilt and the body painted, so he's already invested in this one. Biggest things I need to know are with the engine electrical... Something I never thought I'd say on something this ancient. There are 2 wires on the carb, even though it's a manual choke. One attaches with a flathead bolt, the other has a wire crimped directly to a different component. Completely slipped my mind to take a picture of it. Can anyone tell me what these components are and what they should be wired to? Will it be fine to hook them to 12v, since the main thing they want done is modern 12v wiring? I've read on other sites that the distributor requires conversion to operate on 12v, but the site only referenced dead links and missing pictures so I know nothing other than it needs to be converted. I assume this is a pretty common thing to do and a guide must exist somewhere, but I've come up empty trying to find it. Did this on a Chevy of about the same age, but it was so long ago and I'm not certain if the same parts and process would work. Somewhat less important is the wiper motor. Both cars had smashed ones. Guess the dashes were pulled with crowbars and sledge hammers. ? I've found a few sources for engine parts, but I'm not seeing many body or interior components. I'd appreciate any leads on where to find it. And last of all, and this is just for aesthetics any trying to keep at least the interior as original looking as possible, the dimmer switch. First body didn't have one and the second one had what seemed to be a pretty obvious aftermarket one that was shoved through a jagged hole in the floor. It looked like a miniature football with a threaded rod sticking out. I found one on a site, but since it doesn't specify the exact models, I'm not sure if it's right. This is the one I found: https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts/k_electrical/dimmer-switch/ Is that right for a '48 Highlander?
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