Plymouthy Adams

These are a few pictures I just took for your benefit as I decided to drive the 54 about a few miles just to say I did....once back home I ran it upon the lift to see about a noise....looks like I am going to need an isolation pad for the steering sector...get a knock crossing the railroad tracks...I know I know, stay on this side of the tracks. I chose to mount my master on a bracket I made special for the master and to also bolt direct to the transmission cross member.

a walk though a wrecking yard with a wrench or two, tape measure (caliper) and you may find just the items you need...especially if there are some 70-90's cars and light trucks in the mix. I welded my new length rod using DOM bushing stock I happened to have had on hand...that is heavy duty stuff also and being DOM...easy to slide a bolt with the head cut off for easy welding...of course you can clean the bore of common pipe with a drill and do the same job.

ok...back up time for Bonzo.....the boss that the bolt goes through is 7/8 inch wide....the bolt will need be 7/16th dia...I just got off the mower from cutting the west orchard and thought I could put my hand on a brake lever....I could, I did and the results are as posted.

place a classified ad, you risk thread deletion if asking for parts on open forum....want ad is free...link to classifieds in on the blue banner top of page.....good luck.

all day long, BUT...MSII or other grafted clip..both invasive...but I would do the clip over the MSII and the frame mods need to accept it. I have done these for under 250.00 for frame. R&P, disc brakes and sway bar incluced with the donor chassis...but you need to be a fabricator and a self starting and proactive and you will need the room to take it down in the manner it needs be. Other have taken more time...as did the first of these but the second one was mimic work. The 48 Plymouth was a bit more also but it got more than just a front clip. The one was just a weekend job for working the frame....Friday evening after work...remove body.....and measure and mark for the cuts...Saturday cut, join and weld, (join means some 32 inches of each frame segment supporting each other and in the case of the P23's on frame slides directly into the other. Sunday clean and paint frame, Monday after work body back on. Would have been nice to have some help....well I did in a way, my son wire brushed the frame after I finished a couple welds Sunday morning. Now of course I made other mods which made this a walk in the park as I also upgrade engine, tranny and in most cases the full electronics including ABS brakes, active air bag and used the donor AC/HTR as a direct bolt in. NO I DO NOT SIT THE BODY ON A DONOR FRAME...much cutting and welding involved.

I went to my pictures from when I did the upgrade and here is a picture of the bolt, return spring plate and the bolt was not as I thought self locking but indeed it was a pinned castle nut......maybe this will help you a bit...grade 8 would suffice and one could drill the hole for the cotter pin. Allow you to keep moving till you found the exact bolt you want be it aircraft or luck onto a stock setup. 1954 Ply Savoy with Automatic thus the single pedal set up.

oh heck yeah, after all, it's just sunning itself by laying on it back.....nothing to see or worry about here.....disappointed they did not have a jackhammer on the slugs......

do not understand the brake system on the firewall, the '54 has a special recess formed in the floor pan for the room/ability to mount the booster unit. You can see this dome in this picture on the '54 Plymouth....pedal/master stayed mounted onto the frame rail NOT STOCK MASTER AND PLUMBING....just show picture of the recess for the booster As an added note, the service manual was already in print and did not include such mid year items of the 54 model like power brakes, power steering and the Powerflite automatic. It was later suggested for these repairs to see the 55 model year service book. The booster which was the late 54 unit was a Kelsey Hayes unit fitted for late 54 and 55 model Plymouth. This booster did not carry forward into the 56> cars.

my error, the welded nut threw me a bit of a curve as I read it

Sam I think refers to the heavier boss pin that the pedal pivots on which I assume you have on the car already. I see you got the whole enchilada with Wilwood. My setup for the brake master rod connection was a bolt only, shouldered and the nut was on the brake pedal bell crank with the nut being self locking...snug with no binding. Yes I installed the Rustyhope disc bracket and followed along with the recommend brake flex hoses. As a note, the modern Dodge master was also 1 1/8 bore as factory. All the disc componets are new, 2 lb front and 10 pound rear residuals and I bought them in a set with the proportioning valve included. I also did the shock relocation to 'de-float' the boat so to speak and used the F1 Ford shock brackets as I found them at the swap meet 2.00 the pair. How can you go wrong, plated the frame both sides when installing the bracket. Ride and braking is so much the better. Brakes worked great stock but only after you cycled them a few times as I do not drive the car often and the drum/shoes would grab the first few uses....I would hold my foot on the pedal till I cleared my property by that time they were acting right...but it was annoying and I think brakes are an area for upgrade.

unfortunately, I did not measure the pin when I did my modern master upgrade last fall. Your rod is similar to what mine looks like, adjustable each end if needed. I used a 2006 Dodge master on mine with a universal dual remote reservoir, It was most economical, removed from a working brake system on a wrecked vehicle, an experiment if being thrifty and keeping it all Mopar....no lid to worry about either and uses the input seals where the original reservoir was in place but stubbed to the reservoir on the firewall.

sometimes finding county coded tags can be difficult...so far I have held out for the country code of 19 which is for my county.....tags from Atlanta are just too numerous....low population rural counties as said, can be far and few in between... Good find for a pair even if not your county.....they appear the same color as my 48 Georgia tag...silver with black letters

I am not so sure it is over.....we have to endure the rework next......?

typically the fastest and easiest method and one that will allow best fit and allow for adjustments is to do in place by cutting the rod and splicing in a piece of metal by welding, therein you have your original adjustment sleeve and jamb nut in place and on the other end the polished ball end of the rod....

likely the timing chain tensioner....old, leaking and has to be pumped up to quieting down....

which one has the hemi? gnome-mobile looks to be steam powered what with the open fire...and the one is a tribute to the Z-car looks like the gang had fun.....

the inner lip of the seal will have a round spring on it...by what I can see, yes it appears to be inserted upside down...again...what side has the spring....if pointing to the damper it is wrong...

quick check on this is the tension spring around the sealing lip....as some seals have a small protruding lip forward by design, is that this spring should be facing the inside (oil supply) of the engine.

only slightly so in the front....little arse high rake makes them look good...

Shock studs are everywhere on e-bay, Speedway, and 20 second search on Summit Racing, quick return shows no less than 5 different sets listed...could be lots more but was enough to say with a bit of proactive checking, typing of few words, these can be had quickly and affordably.

many small things could be wrong leading up to the problem you have. Fuel, ignition, exhaust (don't forget the manifold heat control vavle) Maybe not much help here but when you do not readily know what is wrong, prove what is right. By that, go over your state of tune, delivery of fuel, ability to exhaust and ensure the components are up to the task. When is the last time a compression test, valve adjust etc was made on the engine. Small things....prove them one way or another.

the springs got wider with later model spring plates....the u-bolts will have a gap between themselves and the leaf spring assembly...one can easily make a capture cradle here by welding angle iron the the donor spring/shock mount. Here is '04 Dakota axle and shock mounts of the wider variety with the welded angles in place to capture the more narrow stock leaf spring assembly, many may think overkill but Overkill is my middle name. The above narrative and picture is answering REPLACEMENT scenario of the mount plate itself, however one can just as easily remove the damaged stud and bolt in a replacement stud only in your existing mount plates....

I have already swapped the Rex motor to a servo...it tamed the beast....makes sewing on it a pleasure now. No matter how hard I tried to feather the treadle it would punch out at high speed before I could reign it in. I adjusted that clutch this way and that....no dice so when a house addition come along this got put in storage and forgot for a some time. On the Singer it still has the clutch motor but either due to age or better clutch design, it can be feathered for a start. I may eventually change it to a servo motor as control is key to sewing... You have many attachments for your Consew....I have one or two but plan to add a few devices along the way. I also am considering a larger sewing table to tuck this unit into. Next time I am near my trimmers shop will stop in and ask to photograph their sewing room....it's an awesome set up. I put a new needle bar in the Singer, that was the reason it was sold, took a bit but one showed up on e-bay and I bought it, extremely fair price for sure. The repair and adjustments are just so easy on these machines. The Rex, self lubricates with pressurized oil pump.

from online search..... In February of 1954, Plymouth introduced its 230.2-cu.in. PowerFlow straight-six with a longer piston stroke, compression boosted to 7.25:1 and 110 horsepower. so with the diamond in your engine number and if in stock bore, and good tune, you can quote these numbers with some authority. able to beat a tarantula crossing the road and could get a good picture of a roadrunner as it sped alongside. The 230 in my 54 coupled to the Powerflite 2 speed automatic is super smooth with speeds into the 80's (fast enough for this area) with plenty of pedal to go and the automatic holding the shift at WOT to about 52/53MPH lends to some decent acceleration. Made a believer out of Don Coatney....he liked the manner the car performed. I do not recommend speeding and surely recommend upgrades brakes and suspension modified a tad to de-float the boat.