greg g

Don't know if you can see much here, the rear carb stuff is hidden by the work light. I used the taped head bolts to hold the the rod for and after, the levers are clamped in place by a lock nut on either side. This makes the levers tunable for synching the carbs. This was mentioned to be temporary and hasn't failed in 16 years since installed. During that time , I have adjusted adjusted the syncing once. But I guess if it's a truck it's different.

Made mine from threaded rod, locking collars and go cart him joints. Homely but it works. I used the original bell crank and then doubled up the pulls. Will look for some pictures.

Our 46 coupe came out of Central PA, Lamonte was the registration address. Believe it was purchased new from thr dealer in Bellefonte, PA. We made several trips in it back to our home town in Central NY. Got in 1970 was working my first job out of college at PSU. Now that you have the first road tripI under your belt add 250 miles and join us on next year's P15 Picnic in Southern New Hampshire.

Projected 2022 picnic dates are third weekend in Sept.beginning Thursday 15th through 18th.

Hope that works for you at M Ville. We has some some folks from .London and Brampton who have been on our list for the last three years, perhaps one more from the Toronto area. So there could be a group travel deal for next year. We are just outside Syracuse where there are 4 of us that will travel east together you could join up with. Keep the third weekend of Sept 2022 open. Get on the e mail list by contacting mark@rdusaclassics.com

Ah yes, another use for the universal jumper wire that should be part of everyones trouble shooting kit. You can even get fancy and buy one of those mechanics friends to momentarily provide alternat power to suspect electrical items. https://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-remote-starter-switch-35448.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12144811130&campaignid=12144811130&utm_content=117789254638&adsetid=117789254638&product=35448&store=517&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI87CprqXo8gIV1RitBh3_GAQXEAQYAiABEgKDOvD_BwE

Which part of Ontario are you in? Asking cuz we put on the p15 picnic tour in September and are hoping our North of the border cousins will be able to join in when we gather in New Hampshire Next Year. This year we are in the new york Fingerlakes but the borders still aren't open,

Yep see them know. Nice job. It's almost too pretty to use as a truck...

This should lead to the question of how's my compression. Lack of compression can indicate worn or broken rings. This allows air being compressed by the pistons to pass the rings and bleed into the crankcase. Much of this is normal wear from use. But it can also be an indicator that your vehicle is wanting a rebuild. It was common to rebuild these engines somewhere in the neighborhood of 60 to 70k miles. This due to a lot of factors that we don't face any more. Think dirt roads and less than efficient air and oil filters. So you might want to break out the compression tester, and the vacuum gauge. Knowing and interpreting the results will give you a more informed knowledge of what's going on inside your engine. Stock compression when new was in the 120 psi per cylinder region. In a worn engine peak compression isn't as important than large variation between cylinders. Any thing in the high 80s to low 90s would be judged normal and good. Below 70 indicates wear that should be addressed. Idle vacuum should be 21 inches with a steady needle at 500 rpm idle. There are lots of websites detailing the why's and wherefore of doing these tests. Check out the info under the downloads and resources drop downs on this forums home page.

Cycle the floor switch a dozen or so times, and the headlamp switch too. This might knock off corrosion on the contacts enough to pass current. If that doesn't work you will need to get busy with circuit tester or meter and start checking were you have power and where you dont. The second place to check for power is at the distribution block on the radiator support or inner fender. This being where the lines from the dimmer come out and split to the lamps. Also double check the grounds are going to rust free body sheet metal. When you switch the lights on do you get any movement of the Amp meter with ING off?

Good for you. Now enjoy. Can't get your pictures to open, hope others can.

Was the All-State a rebranded Vespa? I do remember seeing them 8n the catalogs as a kid. Think Montgomery Was rds sold one too, probably branded as a Riverside. My aunt drove a school bus, she rode a Cushman to and from the bus garage regardless of the weather. In winter she fashioned tire chains from furnace damper controll chain. Can't see how that lasted but she only rode about 2 miles either way, but as always uphill into the wind both ways.

Could also be the step up or power valve is not fully closed, this will make an over rich mixture at all times. The step up is a intake vacuum controlled jet inside the float bowl that takes over from the accelerator pumps initial shot when accelerating passing or pulling grades. It is spring operated so it's default is open unless it gets its vacuum signal which overcomes the spring closing it till needed. There has been several threads regarding this circuit. Use key word step up to search. Also from the main page of this site go to the downloads button and click on it. There are two how to documents on rebuilding the various carter carbs. The step up will b e mentioned as well as illustrated. The top of the carb needs to come off to check it is moving freely. The vacuum signal is provided for by a slot cut in the carb to manifold gasket which aligns with a hole in the carb base casting. Most gaskets these days have 4 slots so the can't be misaligned but earlier ones had one slot that could be 3 positions wrong. You might want to swap in the spare carb, but it's probably the spare for a reason. These carter's are pretty simple to rebuild, you can determine whether you want to attempt it by looking at the documents on the procedure.

Cowl vent opening all the way? Shutoff closing all the way? You can take off the feed hose and make a wood plug and clamp it or hook the feed line to the return line with a piece of copper tube clamped in place and bypass the heater. My car has a sheet metal heat shield between the passenger side foot well and the exhaust pipe, is yours present and in place?

Pull the spark plugs, do a compression test. Could be the head gasket.

Your other option is to be to cot out the dented section, replace it with new metal and weld or braze ( do people still braze stuff any more) it in.

You working on Volvos now? Had a 122s we used to compete on road rallys. Had an auto matic, swapped in a four speed. Used it for a bit of ice racing also. We called it Olaf the Slow. Sold it to a College kid, for 2x what I paid for it, bought a. 69 142s. We have a guy in the area who has one like the above, he bought new when in Italy in the Army. Had it shipped home when he was transferred back to the states. Then he was sent to Germany, so Had it shipped there, then back here when tour ended. It has 340000 miles on it, engine has never been out. Head has been done a couple times and it on its third cam, the last one a lumpy one from IPD, but botton has never been touched. He is also working on a p 1800 that has 275k on it.

Relays are basically an electromagnetically operated switch. Each one has two sides, the switched side , low Amp draw, and the power side, high Amp draw. The power side is an open circuit at rest. When energized a magnet draws a plunger closed to connect the load to power. When the switched side is released the magnet shuts off allowing a spring to return the plunger ( some may have spring loaded points) to rest in the open position. This allows a 15 Amp circuit to be controlled by a 5 Amp draw through the control point. Many relays are self grounded, some like the hornrekay connect by a user activated ground connection for the switched side ie. The horn button. The self grounded style needs a switched power run to energize the magnet. The load side it typically connected directly from the battery or a power distribution buss to the solenoid power side through the load which is grounded to the body. This allows for a short run of stout wire which has minimal resistance through to the load. The other advantage is these wire are an open circuit with no flow till the switched side is grounded. So Switch side is power in, through magnet coil, line out through user controlled ground. Power side is batt in, line out to self grounded load.

Other makes didn't have them because they didn't hire highly qualified engineers like Walter P Chrysler did. They are common these days on 4wd drive setups which have extension tubes on the to keep water out when fording streams.

Go here. Read at least twice before reaching for tools. https://p15-d24.com/files/file/26-carter-carb-bb-service-procedure/

I believe Dodges used the Stromberg due to the demands of the gyromaticsemi automatic trans mission. The wiring and electrical components on the air filter highly suggest that your car is equipped with that transmission. It also probably has an anti stall dashpot component which effects idle speed when stopped in gear with the clutch engaged.

If your car doesn't have a body to ground cable wire or strap, install one. Can be as simple as a couple strands of 10 gauge wire twisted together and attached to a handy bolt on the firewall and attached to the frame, engine or bell housing. The other thing to look at is the size of the wiring going to the lamp. Alot of these aftermarket switches were installed by previous owners with skinny wire suitable for 12v applications. Even though the switch is voltage neutral, the bulbs require 2x the amps 9f 12v apps.. Typically the wires coming out of the switch are fine for six volt, but to continue the circuit out to the lamp, installers used 16 gauge and it is undersized. You will be better off replacing those runs with 12 gauge wire. Both runs are pretty close to the longest ones in the car and each bulb is fwanting 7 amps. With resistance due to length of run and several connections, might be as high as 12 amps per fixture. Not the job for 16 gauge wire.

This is from Wikipedia. I don't know what carb the Chryslers used but the principle remains. The valve is held closed by a vacuum passage that connects though the carb to the intake manifold. If the passage gets blocked the jets remain open causing an over rich mix all the time. It also can lead to poor fuel economy. If you are getting 10 mpg or lesss, this maybe the culprit. Do you get Grey or black smoke out the tail pipe 9n start up or when reving up? Hold up a piece of cardboard to your exhaust after the car is warmed up and have some one rev the engine a couple times. What does the cardboard look like? . Power valveEdit For open throttle operation, a richer fuel/air mixture will produce more power, prevent pre-ignition detonation, and keep the engine running cooler. This is usually addressed with a spring-loaded "power valve", which is held shut by engine vacuum. As the throttle valve opens up, the manifold vacuum decreases and the spring opens the valve to let more fuel into the main circuit. On two-stroke engines, the operation of the power valve is the reverse of normal — it is normally "on" and at a set rpm it is turned "off". It is activated at high rpm to extend the engine's rev range, capitalizing on a two-stroke's tendency to rev higher momentarily when the mixture is lean. Alternately to employing a power valve, the carburetor may utilize a metering rod or step-up rod system to enrich the fuel mixture under high-demand conditions. Such systems were originated by Carter Carburetor[citation needed] in the 1950s for the primary two venturis of their four-barrel carburetors, and step-up rods were widely used on most 1-, 2-, and 4-barrel Carter carburetors through the end of production in the 1980s. The step-up rods are tapered at the bottom end, which extends into the main metering jets. The tops of the rods are connected to a vacuum piston or a mechanical linkage which lifts the rods out of the main jets when the throttle is opened (mechanical linkage) or when manifold vacuum drops (vacuum piston). When the step-up rod is lowered into the main jet, it restricts the fuel flow. When the step-up rod is raised out of the jet, more fuel can flow through it. In this manner, the amount of fuel delivered is tailored to the transient demands of the engine. Some 4-barrel carburetors use metering rods only on the primary two venturis, but some use them on both primary and secondary circuits, as in the Rochester Quadrajet.

Question is what the source of the soot is? You can treat the symptoms with hotter plugs, but should still look into the source. Couple initial items is the choke butterfly opening fully at operating temp, is the step up jet getting its vacuum signal to keep it closed until needed, and are you using an eccessive amount of oil. 95 psi cold and dry is indicative of an old engine 8n pretty good condition.

The thermostat determines when the bypass opens allowing coolant to circulation to the radiator. It's secondary purpose is to provide a restriction to the rate of flow of coolant through the radiator, if it passes througn it returns to the engine tooh too quickly it doesn't cool as much as it should. Then the warmer coolant absorb the amount of heat that it should be carrying out. The degree temp rating doesn't really have a lot to do with the normal operating temperature of the engine. A 180 stat doesn't mean your engine runs at 180. Most folks get nervous when the needle sits at 190 because they are thinking of water boiling ar 212, forgetting that 50 50 mix is good to 230 before it begins to boil. Most engines more efficiently around 190 or even more in newer cars. Also, think of air-cooled engines, they run a lot hotter they are made of the same stuff and they don't melt as long as there is oil in them. They usually run at 250 plus and 3 to 4 hundred under load. The first question when you get hot under the collar should be how hot is hot? Then how hot is too hot?