desoto1939

Refer to c-1055 for fluid drive clutch bearing assembly taken from my Federal catalog. The old catalogs come in handy again. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Here is some info on Throwout Bearing from Federeal Bearing.

our old member Don always recommended this rebuilder and from what I have read they do a great job. Might also consider looking on ebay to see if a rebuild PP and clutch disc are available. The cost of shipping to the guy in Tennasee might be just about the same. Here isa copy of the presure plate and clutch disc info and number frommy Borg warner catalog. Also on ebay there are units to fit your ar based on these numbers. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com 484-431-8157 cell

If you can get a tube of lubriplate that is an old product that will give good results. Clean out al of the old grease and work in the new grease. I have done this on numerous breaker plate assemblies. Get a second BP and have as a spare in your tool box in the old car or truck as a spare. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

The old PB1/2 oil can filter which was a throwawy filter was good for 8K milage. So you can change out the drop in oil filter every other year.. I use a NAPA Gold 1010 filter and after removing the filter I use a turkey baster fromt he $1 store to remove the remaining oil in the canister then wipe it clean. This not a messayjob just take your time. I have owner my 39 Desoto for 35 years. Rich Hartung desoto199@aol.com

I have not really looked at any Hemmings Motor New in at least 10-15 Years. Last May when upto their office in Bennington to go thrught their museum and the webpage did not tellyou that the office and museum was closed. This was ok with me. We were just on a vacation and were inthe area. Hemmings really needs to be an online magazine and get out of the paper world or they will also slowly go out of business. Need to change with the times. Easier to look on Ebay and also internet searches are faster. With Ebay at least you get to see the item prior to buying it, but you can not haggle like you can at a flea market, you pay the asking price or just let it go to someone else. Also much easier for the sellers since they do not have to slep to a swap meet listen to people trying to lower the price. The items are listed worldwide rain, snow, sleet and or sunny weather and no travel time and or hotel and swap meet expenses. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

I have owned my 1939 Desoto with the stock brake light switch that screws into the brass line connector that is mounted to the frame in the engine compartment. I have only chnaged this unit ounce in 35 years f owning the car. The switch just works off og the hydraulic brake fluid to make the contact send the electrical current to the brake lights. I can puchase the units fairly cheaply so why spend this extra money for such a simple switch that has been used for so many years. Just reinventing the same switch again with this new unit. Rich Hartung

on my 39 desoto the brake switch connector which you show is mounted on the frame approx six inches from wher the brake line comes out of my MC. My MC

You shoudld have a service manual for your 46 Plymouth. I know in my service manual for my 39 Desoto it shows you the adjustments and tells you the amount of space that should be between the brake band material and the drum. My setup is different than your so suggest that you get the service manual for your car. You will be surprised with how much other info you will discover about your car. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Here is the gasket number for the oil pump cover and base gasket taken from my McCord gasket catalog 1937-54 The numbers on the left are the MoPar part number the numbers on the right is the McCord Gasket number So the 46-54 number was the same gasket body gasket Hope this get you in the right direction. Again this is why i have collected the older cross reference catalogs. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

in your description you state that it does not idle smoothly. That would be my first point o check out as to why it is not idling smoothly. Have you made any adjustments to the carb, the idle speed or air mixture screw. Have you done a tuneup on the car. Might also be the condensor, rotor, cap, wires and or plugs. Run the car in your garage at night time with all the lights out and have the hood open look to see if you see blue streaks comingoff the sparkplug wires. If this is happening then you need to replace the wires they are leaking. Then look at the cap at the contat points at the top of the cap are they worn r carboned, any grooves inthe contact area. how is the carbon contact that come down from the top of the cap to the rotor, is the roto bad. Check that all of the sparkplug wires are pushed firmly into the cap and onto each plug look for corrosion on the cap where the plug wire connect to the cap and also on each spark plug. Check the condition of each plug, pull each one look for carbon, clean them and reset the gap. These are just suggections to help you get the car to idle smoothly. Let us know what you find. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

Here is a picture of a typical Trico Vacuum wiper moto with the on/off knob. This might help with what you are looking for taken from my 1928-39 Trico catalog. go ob ebay there are many plastic wiper knobs for the 46-49 Plymouth both plastic and chrome. these knobs are mounted on the center of the dash near the middle of the front window. If you have a parts manual and a service manual for your plymouth it would also show you the knob and part number and location on the dah. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

question on the buckboard. You show a picture of the engine with a flywheel. Is this similar to the type of flywheel that ws used on the Carter cars inwhich as you wanted to go faster the large flywheel then moved to the center of the flat disck to get more speed for the car? rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

that is a reproduction. Parts manuals and original publications wehter NOS, original or reproductions does not affect the points AACA jusging of a car. These repro are used by the owner to verify that if there isa questionable parts on your car you can verify that they are correct for your car or truck. These catalogs do not get judged and evenif in the truck and are being shown bare no points or additional points be awarded or deducted from your car. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Here is the break down of the correct parts for your dizzy look at 1949 year and then go across . Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Merry Xmas to all. We all need to take the time to be Thankful for what we all have in life. It is not about the amount of money that were spent for xmas presents or how many items each of us received under the tree. The most important item is the loe that we have for our family and friends. We all need to be aware of the people that were affected in Tennesse with the tornedo's and the lose of loved ones. Their lives have been torn abpart but with the grace of God they will al get back on their feet. Since I live near valley forge Pa I am always reminded of the time that our first troops were encamped at valley forge trying to defend and fight for our Freedom and our rights. We all must remember these times becsue this is what has given us the rights to enjoy this Xmas Holiday. Pease and Good WILL TO EVERYONE. Rich HArtung

OK the saga continues with Agreed valued and stated value. First you must know what the insurance company is offering in coverage. Agreed value, have mine 39 desoto with Grundy Agreed value 23K cost me $180 a year. This in clude collision and comprehensie on the car and covers it for full 12 months. If the car is totalled then i get 23K for the car not questions asked, not even the MSRP value of the car becasue that does not represent todays buying power and cost to buy a car. Also can not use as a daily driver and must be garage enclosed stored when not in use. Stated value is just like the coverage on your regular car/truck. The car had an MSRP value when you purchsed the car. Yu took basically a term insurance policy every year. If the car is totaled then they come out an appraise the car versus the current age, condition milage, rust out and any way they can depreciate the car. Then they give you a buyout. So the MSRP was 20K you owned the car for 10 years has 50k in milage some ding and dents some rot out. The insurance company will not give you 20K for the car but a deeply cut payout based onthe condition,milage and other factors. So you might only get 5K. So if an antique car is in storage then get an agreed value for the car and if the car is totaled then you know what you get. Many antique car owners think they are getting good deal from their regular car insurance carier but in all reality they are getting screwed if the car is totalled. This is a major topic at the AACA annual meeting every Feb in Philadelphia. The specialty Insurance carriers are the best policy and I have been owning my 39 desoto for 35 years. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Here is some info from my thermostat catalog: Hope this helps you with the correct part. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Why do they require this information. Are you insuring your car with an antique car insurance company for an agreed valued policy or using your regular everyday car insurance company. Regular car ins used stated value and they depreciate the cars value as it get older, with agreed value the car is insurded for the entire amount that you took the policy out agains t the car. so lets say with agreed valued you took a 20K value then if the car is totalled you get 20K. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

are all the screws and bolts tight on the carb. Sounds as if you might have an air leak or vaccum leak. How old is the rubber hose that feeds the fuel pump? If it is an older hose and not ethanol fuel usgae it might be getting clogged. but has enough of an opening to let the car idle but when under a load it is colapsing internally. Just a suggestion. Could go to NAPA and get modern hose clamps and the correct size opening and cut a temporary fuel line to see if that solves the issue then get the correct hose. Rich

did you take or rebuild the carb recently? Check the step up piston. did you soak the leather in light oil to soften the leather. Is there any crap in the sediment bowls on the fuel pump and extra gas filter? Is anything sticking on the automatic choke or other linkage. Do you have the correct base gasket the one with the four slots? Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

The below data was taken from my Borg warner Trans and Gears catalog hope this answeres your question. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I would suggest to replace with new glass. By the time you try to take out the old 50+ year glass it might break and the seal will eventually leak and then the glass will turn white plus the shipping to get the glass. Since most is flat glass just spend the money on new glass. Go back to the same glass company as you get more funds so they can use the same supplier. Maybe do two windows at a time then save some more funds and then two more. It will alget done and in the process you will see improvement inthe car. I prefer to hand the installation to professional because they do it all the time. Also instead of setting tape they will use the new urethane seal on certain windows which is easier to use and permits some final movement to positionthe glass properly, fine adjustment. If this is a drier car go this route Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

OK I need some school on how to test the ohms on a new replacement modern gas tank sending unit. MoPar in 1939 for Dodge, desoto, Ply and Chrysler used a two wire, yes two wire system. on the back of the gas guage thee isa number 1 and number 2 o the sending unit there isa corresponding 1 and 2. I have a digital meter but can not get any steady read out to check that the unit is really working. So how would I check the ohms across the tank unit. My everstart digital meter has the following setting for Ohms 2m 200k 20k 2k 200 so what do I set the pointer at is the first question. Then the car is a positive grnd car 6v. I have the sending unit out of the car and on my bench. Where would i touch the black and the red contact probes can not get any readings. Do i need to supply power to the sending unit via the two wire contacts so positive to one screw and the negative to the other screw and then have a grnd clip to ground the unit and then test the ohms reading for full and then empty. I am not very good at electrical testing so need so help from the guru's If needed I can post pictures of the meter and the sending unit if needed. Thanks for any help. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com