desoto1939

The original poster states he has thermal issues but does not state what is really happening with the water temperature or any type of reading from the temp gage. Is the car over heating and reaching the max temp of 220 and the coolent is boiling over out of the radiator? Does he have the correct radiator cap. did he put on a pressurized cap of around 4-7 lbs. I think these cars still use a non pressure cap like an R-3 rad cap. If he is using a pressurized cap he might have to change it. Has there been a back flushing of the entire cooling system, how much crude is inthe block and radiator. what is the condition of the water distribution tube, what is the timing on the car, is it set properly. Is there any restriction in front of the radiator to restrict air flow. Whole lot of little things can cause his problem. We all need more input with specifics to help I have a 39 desoto and I have gotten to 200 inthe summer but after moving again the temp come back down. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Hickory: Are you a member of the National desoto Club? This years annual convention and car show will be held in Altoona, PA June 15 -19th. If you are not a member suggest that you join the club. Also our past President Les Pesavento has several 1929 Desoto so he is a very good contact for the 1929 car. I own a 39 desoto. The desoto club web page is www.desoto.org I live near valley forge PA contact me. I will send you a PM with more information. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

my question why are you going to try to fix thes used parts especially since it needs major repair and then are you going to be able to find parts later when you need them? I would spend the money on a petronix system because you know they work and the parts are available for your car. Just my 25 cents of input. Rich

I found the plug near the base of the carb near the sisson choke assembly. The plug is basically a slotted plug and it looks as if it has never been removed. I will have to put some BP Blaster on the threads to get the rust off the plug so that i can loosen the plug. Nervous about trying to remove a plug in the manifold that has been installed over 80 years ago. My luck it will snap off. Rich

Loren: Since I have an electric wiper motor the fuel pump is not a dual diaphragm it is a single diaphragm pump model AC 588, standard FP for alot of MoPar cars and trucks. So i will have to look for the 1/8 inch plug in the manifold. I will let you know what I find. Hopefully the plug will come out without breaking since this is the original manifold for the car. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

OK this is something new to me. My 39 Desoto does not use the vacuum line to run the wiper motor it is electric. So basically, the only vacuum line that i have is a metal line at the bottom of the carb that runs to the vacuum advance unit and this is attached to the dizzy body. So Do I disconnect the vacuum line at the base of the Carb and connect the Gage at this point to the carb or where else do i connect. Any pictures or pointers would be helpful. Want to try this method of setting the carb and adjusting the car. Have never done this want to learn. Always willing to learn something new. Also any recommendation on a Vacuum Gage Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Here are two pages of Official MoPar service car care products and also a description of what they wee used for. i know that there are can collectors of MoPar items so this might help you find those missing cans for your collection. Rich Hartung MoPar service Products.pdf

I was paging through one of my Mopar Service Manuals, Plymouth P15-p24 and came across a page that show the oil flow to and from the By-Pass oil filter system. Thought this would be of interest to anyone that has a by-pass oil filter so you would have a better understanding of how the system works. By-Pass Oil Filter Diagram.pdf Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

As stated above yes a good quality extinguisher is recommended but also having your current antique or regular car insurance upto date to cover fire, collison and theft coverage. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

A good ABC fire extinguisher is a must to have in your car. When you go to some car show they require an extingusher to be placed by one of the front tires. You do not have to mount the estingusher any specific place inthe car but should be easy to get to incase you need one. Rich Hartung

I have a B&S lock catalog that covers from 1936-39. The number that is on the box is not used or even listed between the years of 1936-1939. That is the best that I can provide for you. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Yes that was the old trick used in the repair shops. Ask someone to go get the condenser that you left on the workbench and then you would hear the big zap when they picked it up. Shocked once but never twice. In my Autol-Lite technicicans training manual it stated that Autolite had two condensors that had a range of .2 - .25 and .25 to approx .35 Rich Hartung

Just added a Coil and Condenser testing to my collection of tools. Nice to know if the supply of condensors will be good for my 39 desoto. I tried this on several of my NOS Autolite condensor and had a great reading of approx .4 MDF's Tested a newer condensor from one of the major distributor of MoPar Parts and it registered at .2 MDF's Purchased the unit for $21 plus shipping from ebay another one that looks to be NOS is selling for $150. Got a great buy. Rich Hartung

The one that was shown in the picture of the engine is a by-pass unit adnthe Wix or Napa 1010 will fit inthe canister. he other type is the full flow wich has a totaly different filter. since my 39 Desoto uses the by-pass that is how i can recommend the 1010 filter.. Yes as i stated above you will have to make your own gasket, get some gasket material measure the inside diameter of the lid and then with a compass, if you remember what a compass is from elementary school then trace the measurement on the gasket material mark the inner side diameter the size of the lip to make a good seal. then cut out the gasket and then install. Suggest make several of these and store in the box that the oil filter came in. A very simple project to do. I have done this for 35 years. everyone over thinks the issue. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

the napa1010 will work just fine inthe canister that you are showing. This filter is a bypass and the insert fits over the tube inside the canister and the oil just flows throught the filter element. Andy B's want approx $16 for a filter plus shipping of around $16. You can almost buy two NAPA 1010 filter for the cost of the filter plus shipping from Andy B;s I by mine from Napa nd save on shipping. Get two to have any extra. I use the 1010 gold in my 39 desoto for the past 35 years. When you take off the lid use a turkey baster to remove the oil in the bottom of the canister, clean it out with a clean rag. Might have to make a new lid gasket but that is easy to do. Make sure the nut on the lid is nice and tight because with the oil coming into the top of the canister is might leak out. Know that from experience. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

GL1 is used in trans GL5 is used in rears. Rich

Verify that your car could have been produced with the chrome strip fender welting. When i went through my 1929-39 Desoto Master Parts book I discovered that the Custom model and not the De Luxe model only were delivered with the chrome fender welting So look at your parts book to determine if they wee an option or were not installed on your car. i know it looks great to see the stainless chrome strip. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

check the inside the distributor I can only see one small wire running from the condenser I think the dizzy is not setup correctly do you have a used breaker plate assembly what is the specific dizzy number IGT-xxxx etc. Check the dizzy again for correct wire hookups. Rich Hartung

Cannuck: so you already have dot 5 in the system. So when you flush the system with denatured alcohol you will need a catch jar at each wheel cylinder. You flush the lines just like you are bleeding each wheel cylinder. The brake fluid will seperate. It might take a couple of gallons to flush the system. You will notice that the gar willbe clear of any brake fluid. Cleanout the cyclinders, new brake hoses, cups and outer cups. rebuild the Master cylinder also front hoses and fron wheel cylinders then start the bleeding process from the right rear then left rear right front then left front. Rich

I double what Plymouthy has stated above. The electric is a good backup pump to the mechanical and also a good pump toprime the systemand also if you get a vapor lock. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I have been using DOT 5 fluid in my brake system for 35 year of ownership of my 1939 Desoto. Yes you need to flush the entire brake system with denatured alcohol and replace the rubber components. The nice part is that the DOT 5 does not absorb water to rust out the lines and brake components. As with any brak system yes you will need to bleed the system every several year to insure good clean brake fluid. Part of my winter process is to every couple of weeks just sit inthe car and depress the brake pedal to move brake fluid this keeps the pistons and seals lubricated in each wheel cylinder and the master cylinder. You need to be proactive with these old cars becasue they sit more often then are run on the road. Spring maintenance isa must prior to taking the car out for a major run. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

The price all depend on each cylinder. If you have step wheel cylinders ones that have two different size bores then they are more expensice that a single size bore. Also when I was at Carlise last spring I notices that at the White Post site their literature stated that they do not guanatee brakes that will be filled with slicone brake fluid. There was no one to ask why but make sure you contact them prior to having them reline your wheel cylinders. Rich Hartung

Here is some info from my Thermoid Brake catalog on the brake bands Hope this is helpful. Are you sure that you have the correct emergency brake band for your car????? Rich Hartung

I just contacted Tanks Inc and they informed me that all of their filler neck are steel. i discussed the above issue with their tech support person and he informed me that all gas pump handles have a plastic (rubber) handle to prevent the issue of creating a spark when filling our cars or trucks. So they fell that this is not an issue. The real issue is of the Plastic gas container residing in the back of the pickup truck that has the plastic liner. This creates the static charge. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

If I remember correctly the filler neck on our cars is not steel it is some alloy or made with a non spark metal. So there is a mnior aspect of creating a spark. If there ever was an issue of this happening it would have happened a long time ago and someone would have chnaged the metal fuel filler tube. I have persoanally seen the issue with the plastic gas can creating a spark in the plastic bed iner on a pickup truck. It is not a pretty site and you run like a bat out of hell when you see it happen. Also i think the nossle end on the gas pump is also made of a none conductive material but with the pastic gas can and the statis electricity from the plastic bed liner this is where you have the issue becsue the fumes are what ignite. Rich Hartung