DonaldSmith

I used aluminum dryer vent to allow running the car inside. (I would still keep the garage door open; Carbon monoxide gas settles to the bottom, after it cools.) (Photos to follow: outside louver; reducing the diameter of the pipe at the exhaust pipe. Stay tuned.)

I got a billet pully and re-drilled it, for the power steering for my 47 DeSoto. I actually filed the center hole larger to fit. I have a big treatise on adding the power steering . I think it's in the site resources.

Mine is 6-volt.

OK, what's the general rule for radial tires? My radials are about 15 years old. If not cracked, are they OK? Or is there some hidden damaage?

The photo is upside down. Are you in Oz?

Regarding the construction of the pyramids, I saw something on TV, so it has to be true. But this had to do with more common-sense solutions to the problems. How to get the granite slab ceiling over the chamber? The stairwell with its sloping ledges on each side served as a counterweight track for hauling the slabs up a temporary exterior ramp. Oops, one of the slabs is cracked - what to do? Replace it? Get someone in above the slab, plaster over the crack, and keep checking. If the plaster doesn't crack, good to go. Ancient strain gauge. How to get the stones all the way up to the top of the pyramid? Huge levers, at each level of stone? A temporary ramp starting half way across the desert? A sonar study of the pyramid showed strange voids in the seemingly solid structure. And, as a frost coating can show the heat leaks in your roof, a photo of the pyramid hinted at internal ramps behind the stone face. How to get the stones up into place? On a built-in system of internal ramps, with corners left open for turning the stones that are dragged up the ramp. These seem like solutions some modern genius would come up with. It seems that some modern theorists discount the native ingenuity of our ancient ancestors. They were no dummies.

Doctor: Do you suffer from tinnitus? Patient: No, I rather enjoy it. (This joke also works with flatulence.) I don't mind the background noise, the crickets. But I get the snap, crackle and pop, usually in bed when the ductwork heats up, but the sound is not directional; it's in my head. An ENT doctor said that it is either tinnitus or the onset of dementia. I still haven't decided which it is. I hate hearing aids, at least the over-the-ear kind, where the mikes react to wind, hair too long, or accidental touching. The hearing loss is mild, but more pronounced at the frequencies of the consonants. So I have trouble understanding speech, especially whenthewordsareruntogether. But I'm not complaining. All in all, life is sweet.

As shown in the photo of my floor panel, my seat was in at the time. I've removed and reinstalled the floor panel with the seat in, but after its initial stubborn removal. If you are trying to get the whole panel out, it is easier if you remove the seat. If you decide to replace the master cylinder without removing the floor panel, at least you can see that there is an access panel for the master cylinder.

You'll want an access cover, for checking and filling the reservoir, and checking to see that that little hole isn't blocked. My car and its access cover were long separated, so I used an electrical box cover. I clipped the opposite corners off the cover, so it would be closer to the shape of the access hole. If you are re-doing that area of the floor, you can make the hole and cover any shape. (The PO re-did the brakes with DOT-5, so the cover reminds me of that.)

I remember when I refurbished my grommet (with tool handle coating) that the grommet didn't want to come off. See the bracket welded to the column to support the shift rod? How id they install the grommet a the factory? With the steering wheel and shift lever off? When I modified the steering column for the power steering, the grommet stayed with the column. h

The spring hooked to the rusty bracket goes to the clutch fork. It is indeed the clutch return spring.

Here's a photo f my 47DeSoto, which I titled "spring bracket". It's looking up. The oil pan is to the left, then the bell housing (the bracket from the engine shows two bolts removed.) The starter (black) is at the top. Note the rusty trapezoidal spring bracket. I hope this helps.

Nice try at colorization, but it doesn't answer what colors the accessories were. The wood dash board in the first picture is brownish, but in the second picture it is grayish. And the reddish accessories are a rather dull purple. i know, I'm picky, picky.

12 volts might get you electric power steering and HEI ignition. Otherwise, I'm fine with 6 volts. I have a 6-to-12 volt inverter for running the GPS and charging the cell phones, in case I ever need to do so.

Here's a shot of the bottom linkage, from when I adapted the steering column for power steering. The steering column jacket has a pivot shaft attached, for the bottom shift mechanism. Pulling the shift arm pushes the shaft forward, which moves the pivot and pushes the link to the transmission. Raising and lowering the shift lever moves the big arm with its adjustable pin for the other link to the transmission.

When you pull the gearshift lever back to go into reverse, the end of the gearshift shaft will pull back. This pulls back the gizmo that is the center of this discussion. Yes, it's supposed to ride in that groove. The gizmo is on an arm connected to a short shaft below the steering column. Another arm on that shaft pulls a shift rod connected to the transmission. On a manual transmission, this lets the transmission be put into first or reverse by the other rod as the shift lever is lowered or raised. On the semi-automatic transmission, the shift lever only moves up, and only into reverse. i

I'm thinking what may be obvious, or a Duhh! moment. The life span of those rubber steering isolators directly depends on how much grease is leaking out of the steering gear box. I see the photos of my hack from years ago, and there is grease all over. To keep the gear from leaking, the current hack is to fill it with corn head oil ? Nowadays I've got a power steering gearbox, so it better not leak at all.

Happy man, happy car.

They say air bath is better, and I believe it, as long as it doesn't leak or have other problems. Mine leaked, so paper filter seemed the way to go.

Years ago, I sent away for replacement steering arm bushings and installed them. They soon turned into virtual mush, like the previous ones. I went for a hard solution, and cobbled together pipe, washers, etc., to take the place of the rubber bushings. I don't notice any feel at the wheel, and the fix has lasted. The weird casting has two studs that go into the steering arm (pitman arm), and each tie rod end goes into one of the remaining holes. As I remember, the sleeves for the tie rod ends consist of plastic pipefitting in brass sleeve. Not much give, but no rot. And then I had to clip some large washers to complete the assembly.

A sure way to find something is to replace it.

We have found, that when we find something, it's in the last place we look, and it's right where we left it. Go figure.

So, the cable size is one of the things where we can "agree to disagree". (I hate that phrase; don't try to shut off the discussion. Sometimes I don't want to agree.) Has anyone made a Preferences Form for P15D24 members? O gauge vs 1 gauge. Ethanol-free gas vs whatever comes out of the pump. Points vs electronic ignition 30 wt vs multi-grade Etc.

Thanks for the info.

Ain't got no voltage drop. I've got star washers at the solenoid, and I keep the nuts tight. It's sort of like the old Sears Good, Better and Best. (Anyone else ready to admit that they have 1 gauge cables? I don't want to be hanging out here alone.)