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My fuel pump went out. I have a nice gear driven electric pump from fifth avenue garage. What is the advantage and disadvantages of electric fuel pump to a mechanical one.

I have a 1940 Plymouth PT105. Same period motor (from a 52', P23 code 218ci ) and has the floor starter, 6V Positive Ground, BB1 Carb, etc... Lately, the truck is not running due to a host of fuel related issues and my slowness on working on it between work, family, and the Texas heat. I have replaced the fuel tank (which I had sealed about 7 years ago, but has come undone) due to corrosion with a "Tanks Inc 39DP-T" from Summit Racing. The new tank fits great, and I am now in the process of running all new fuel lines from the tank to the mechanical pump (which I replaced, but I don't have faith in it, could not prime, or was pushing too much pressure when primed, etc..). I am looking at switching to an electric fuel pump as part of adding in the new fuel lines. Using 5/16" Copper Nickel hard lines with double flair fittings for the fuel line. I'll also do another carb rebuild to make sure it is clean and put this filter pre-pump. Had a paper/plastic one between the mechanical pump and carb prior. I think the electric pump gives me better assurance that the fuel system is working up to the carb. This would completely remove the mechanical pump and I would put a block off plate on the motor. Parts: Carter P4259 Fuel Pump 20 Amp slow burn fuse & holder 6V Relay OS75 Oil Switch K&N 81-0300 Fuel Filter 5/16" Hardline and various fittings Inertia Switch Thoughts? Does this wiring look correct?

I will be mounting a electric fuel pump as part of my 12V conversion, mostly because after I added Fenton-type cast iron headers they are extremely close to the mechanical pump and fuel lines. Anyone out there have any experience with electric fuel pumps on one of our trucks? I'm looking at one from Car Quest that pumps at 4-7 lbs. I'll be running a Stromberg two barrel on a factory manifold, 230 bored 60 over with a mild cam. Should be OK, right?

I took my woodie to a car show in early June and came home and put it in the garage, as usual. I tried to start it about three weeks later and the battery was deaded than a door nail. It wouldn't even budge the dash indicator, no lights, no dome light, no horn. Really dead. The battery is a 6v Optima I bought in August 2010. Has been great with tons on cranking power. I checked the headlights, which were off, and looked for anything else I might have forgotten that could have drained the battery, but nothing seemed to be on. With the ignition off, there really isn't much else on my car that can remain on. Very perplexing. The battery store confirmed the battery was absolutely dead, so the assumption is something is on that drained it. They revived it by putting a good Optima in-line with mine and put a charger on it (how the manufacturer recommends reviving a dead Optima). Seems fine now, but I am leary. The variable that concerns me is that I had a generator issue and swapped out parts from a spare and replaced the brushes at the same time. Then, the car show maybe two or three weeks later. I show no drain on the battery when hooked up now, and dash gauge goes way to charge for the first few minutes of driving, then settles a little right of the middle, but this still concerns me. I have a couple questions: The brushes are new and showed no signs of cracked or flaking insulation. Is there something I might have done to the generator to cause an intermitant short? If that were the case, would I not see that the battery was being drawn by looking at the dash guage with the car off? Could the armiture be shorting only at a certain position and is there a way I can test this? I have avoltage meter, but except for the vary obvious stuff, I am not adept at using it. Kind of like my wife with a screw driver. Is there a reliable way to tell if I have a constant drain with the car off? I have seen many threads on chasing down electrical issues on the forum. And electrical is not my strong suite (if i have one). But this car has been very reliable eletrically, so I am looking for the obvious stuff first. I have also seen a few comments on the web that the newer Optimas occassionally do have some kind of sudden death issues that nobody seems to understand, so it COULD be the battery, but I am not there yet.

Sittinng on a six hour flight from Boston to Los angeles, so I have some time on my hands. Reviewing a few pictures I took over the week and planning my refurb attack on Ruby. Was wondering what the frayed trim is called in the following link... http://www.flickr.com/photos/7526098@N04/5503263328/in/photostream/ Also can anyone tell me what how the wire is routed for the interior light? Does it originate under the dash? How does it enter the B pillar, from above or below? Switch is a little tough to move, but seems to function. Checked the bulb too and it seems ok. I've read there aren't many fuses in a p15, and pha net spent much time under the dash yet. Happy motoring, Mark