Sniper

I've seen where someone has used an air hammer to do the trick, That someone was not me. Might try a set of DORMAN 568010 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1261394&pt=5332&jsn=11

I bought a 230 to build for my Plymouth and it had stuck valves. I tried all the combinations people have mentioned and the only thing that really worked with a darn was brake fluid. Didn't take me 10 minutes to free up valves that I had spent weeks trying to free up using other fluids.

It's an additive package to oil help with lubricating parts that have a high Shear potential. Modern oil has less than it did 10 15 20 years ago but a lot more than it had back when our engines were new.

That's pretty slick if you got a Source or a part number?

A lower rated thermostat will only delay the amount of time it takes to get to whatever maximum temperature your engine is going to run at. I am not real impressed with the impeller design on our old pumps so I look into getting a more modern setup. I looked at taken a multivan impeller off of a newer water pump and putting it onto one that fit my engine. Turns out the new water pump I bought already beat me to the punch. But you might look into that more vanes or maybe a smaller pulley to get it to spin faster. One other thing I noticed about my honeycomb radiator was that it was packed full of fine dust pull it took me about a half an hour with the hose to get it clean but I did

Well you are correct that generally adding oil into the combustion chamber is a bad idea the supposition that it wasn't used on four cycle engines is off. Lots of people did goofy stuff back in the day. We are still doing it now you'd be surprised the number of people that believe we have to use a high zinc and phosphorus oil on our engines you don't. It's not going to hurt but it isn't needed

Okay I didn't realize you measured it with the engine running. What you were seeing at the point side of the coil is an average of the off and on voltage as the points open and close. Your multimeter cannot react fast enough to show zero and 8.4 so you're getting an averaging effect. Kind of like how the instrument voltage regulator Works in later Mopars it's just a bimetallic strip that opens and closes and chops the DC voltage to about a 5 volt average. The condenser likely is what's determining that average.

Semi related to what Plymouthy said. Y'all remember when louvers were real popular? I had a set blow off the back of my Daytona at about 90 I didn't even bother to try to find them

Only if the points are open, if they are closed you should have 8.4v on the coil + and zero on the coil - (12v negative ground system). Properly setup your 12v conversion should have bypassed the ballast (ignition) resistor providing full system voltage to the coil + in start, only. Sounds like your starter solenoid is bad. You can run a temporary jumper, for testing purposes only, from the coil + to the battery + and see if it starts up properly, if so it's the solenoid or the wiring for the ignition start circuit. Make sure you are in neutral because you will not be able to turn the engine off until you pull the jumper.

After 58 years, I just figured this trick out this summer, lol.

There is a difference between being safe and being stupid. I will leave it to the readers to determine that cutoff.

Most of those guys going for that look have no idea how that look came about. Bonneville.

I put it on You Tube and post a link here. I don't think you can directly put a video here. For those of us that are You Tube challenged, I have put their video up on my You Tube channel and sent them the link.

They make/made a device to allow you to see stoplights. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Deluxe-Traffic-Light-Viewer,298578.html

It is interesting what you learn. Some months back I was doing my grocery shopping and when I was putting the bags in my car an older lady came up to me and asked me if that was a 1951 Plymouth. I was surprised she knew, turns out she used to "borrow" her Dad's 51 when she was in HS and she and her girlfriends used to go all sorts of places in it. Told me that was her favorite car, ever. It wasn't my 51, but it evoked memories for her and it was interesting nonetheless.

You could try that.

Rusty Springs aren't going to keep it from working but the valve stems might mine weren't Rusty just bound up with carbon and I tried a whole bunch of different stuff including PB Blaster finally I talked to some old timers they suggested brake fluid and boy did that work

PB Blaster will do nothing for a stuck valve. Brake fluid well get a rubber face Mallet and some brake fluid squirt it on the stem from the valve head side tap the valve closed and once you get the engine spinning over using the lift it back up one or two cycles and they'll be free as a bird.

Tim Kingsbury does a pretty good review of cams for our engines. It's on this site

Trucks use a different setup than cars it is easy to find a fitting for the truck master cylinders. Cars have an oddball thread that it's hard to find. Now the rear cap where the brake lines come out screws into the top so if you've got an extra master cylinder lying around you could use that. Motive makes an adapter for their power bleeder setup that screws right into the master cylinder but it's not particularly cheap. I did a review here on that motive bleeder and I give the part numbers it might help

All these comments need to remember what he said. Damned good job, imo.

There is a method to determine the correct value for your specific setup, basically it depends on where the points deposits end up.

I get the feeling that jack stands will end up punching a hole thru the plywood. Unless you have a set with a flat base

Electrolytic capacitors, which is what a condenser is, do dry out over time. So NOS is not necessarily a guarantee. The capacitance meters start at about $25, not too steep a price https://www.amazon.com/Honeytek-Capacitance-Capacitor-Electronic-Measuring/dp/B08LYM533X/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=capacitor+tester&qid=1688595648&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Capacitance meters are cheap and give you a specific value. Using a multimeter like in the video is just a quick and dirty check that doesn't tell you the capacitance value, so it could drift on you and still pass the MM test shown. About .25uf (microfarad) is what you want.