Sniper

I have several digital inclinometers that work for that. Heck you can get an old school magnetic protractor for this. https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Level-Tool-700-Magnetic/dp/B00004T807/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=magnetic+protractor&qid=1692298571&sr=8-5

It would confuse the electricians, lol This FAQ explains why https://www.wiringdepot.com/jt-t-tech-articles/Fusible-Link-Wire-FAQs

Politics is generally a bad thing to bring up in places where politics isn't the object of the forum. So let us refrain and keep this place nice. Thanks.

This is week 7 of my new work truck, I put right at 12k miles on it, I was on vacation for a week and a half of those 7 weeks so no mileage accrued then. In fact I was supposed to be in Amarillo yesterday and today, but the customer wanted to reschedule.

Wire is rated by gauge size not ampacity, though there is a minimum gauge size needed to carry a certain amperage. Had to replace the wire for my stove, 50A circuit. 6 gauge wire is rated at 55A max capacity and that will drop off depending on how long the run is. Wire construction and composition also plays a part in it's ability to carry current. Lot's of things go into rating a wire's current carrying capacity and gauge is just one factor.

Not a new issue not isolated to Coker tires, the BFG Radial T/A crowd has the same issues. Odds are good your new tires will do the same. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/263180-new-tires-whitewalls-turns-brown-what-to-do/

https://p15-d24.com/topic/40206-carter-bb-sizes-cfm-ratings/

When I rewired my 51 all the supply wires had a fusible link at the battery end of the wire. My 2 speed electric fan has a fusible link for each power line to the relay.

How do you correct camber on a solid front axle like a 37 has? I can't look up the specifics on a 37 Plymouth, but generally you bend the axle to correct camber. In this case, I'd look for an alignment shop that does HD trucks, they are setup to do this kind of work. Whereas you and I, and most car alignment shops, are not. I did the alignment on my 51 but it has an adjustment for camber. I would very closely inspect the king pins for wear though.

Good call, the T bolts will work with a carb or EFI, I'd be hesitant to use the spring clamps on an EFI setup, probably not an issue with most of the vehicles this site covers, but some of us are going EFI on them and it's a thing to remember on your DD's, just in case.

Those hose clamps are not what I would use, they tend to chew up the hose. I would use either a T bolt (EFI) hose clamp Or a constant tension (spring) clamp

I used a walker kit, 15021B. Not sure if that is correct for your carb though. Might want to run the carb number past the folks here to verify what you have. If you want the needle and seat assembly, like I show, then the Walker pn's is 31-509. This is included in the kit I listed. https://www.carburetor-parts.com/carter-ball-needle-seat

At idle it should not be doing anything. The fuel is being "injected" into the carb because the inlet is not being controlled. As Greg mentioned, it's either the float or the needle/seat assembly. My 51's carb did the same thing when I bought it, a good rebuild fixed it, the cause was a bad needle tip. Attached is the rebuild instructions I used. BandB carb.pdf

I am running an alternator with a 12v negative ground conversion, so no idea how the generator and regulator setup should be for your application. I would take advantage of this opportunity to clean up and tighten the ammeter connections, odds are they have never had that done and this is the #1 issue with ammeters. In a 6v positive ground system none of the solenoid terminals is wired to ground. The solenoid is grounded thru the mounting bracket. There are three terminals on the stock solenoid. Two big ones that connect to the battery negative post and the starter and a smaller one that is connects to the start button in that drawing, this is the one that energizes the solenoid.

Wrong sending unit, there is no gauge and ground label on the factory sender, it is labelled 1 and 2 and connects to the same terminal labels on the gauge.

Not with the thermal gauge setup. From my 46-54 FSM, 40 truck should be similar.

I still have it, It's in my phone now.

Dang it, I was driving thru your neck of the woods today and was thinking about a visit. Then I realized I was in C city and not Sweetwater. Getting old sucks.

You are correct, if you want the ammeter to read properly, otherwise it reads backwards. No idea on the wiring question though. I usually use a generic hot rod style wiring harness and custom wire the vehicle.

I looked thru my FSM, no info on the fuse. Looked thru my parts manuals, no info on fuses. However, I found this https://youtu.be/rjHNHzlHFjE 14A fuse

Are they welded or riveted on? If riveted, a nut and bolt can work, if you aren't a welder like I am not.

I got to thinking about my suggestion for that connection I have a voltmeter in my aftermarket gauge cluster so I can get away with using the solenoid as a pickup point. But, if you are going to use the stock ammeter, then you need to use the generator side of the ammeter as the connection point. There are no 12v sockets for the lights, I am still using the stock sockets in my 51, just put 12 bulbs in them. Generally, 1157 for the taillights and 1156 for the front turn signals. I don't remember any of the other bulb numbers though, a good parts store can get a 12v version of any 6v bulb. I did put new contacts in when I ran new wires. Also, 12v circuits use half the current a 6v one would. So you do not need to upsize the wiring and 6v wiring is overkill for 12v, if you are going that way,

Be better off spending that money on the FSM. You can get the FSM, parts manual and other literature on CD from Rock Auto for a few dollars more.

Pretty sure a good valve adjustment will get some of it back.

You'd think. When I got my 51 it's compression number were all around 50 psi per hole. Two years later, they are still there. Not an issue to me, it runs fine and I am building a 230 for it anyway.