Sniper

Interesting, because as I understand it, the pattern on those axles is the same as many later model ones. I have an 11" drum setup from a Diplomat lying around, somewhere, lol. I might offer them up and see. This it https://p15-d24.com/topic/35125-tapered-axle-modification/https://p15-d24.com/topic/35125-tapered-axle-modification/

Way back in my sailor days I used to work on a lot of gear that had tubes. Open heater circuits are the number one failure mode of tubes. The heaters are always running because the tubes won't work without them, so even if the tube isn't being used the heater is running, so that part fails most commonly. If it ain't glowing, it's bad, lol. That is also why tube radios don;t turn on instantly, till the tubes heat up they won't conduct. Now granted there are tubes out there that you cannot see the heater filaments, but those aren't used in our stuff. You did good.

I think you need to reread what was posted and look very closely at how it was wired.

Except those are the 8 3/4 axles and I am pretty sure the backing plates do not swap, easily.

I think your pricing might be a little optimistic and I'm pretty sure none of the Piston manufacturers is going to be interested in doing anything like that unless you want to pay for them to do all the research and everything. In which case those fancy $1,000 for Pistons will end up being cheaper LOL

The freewheeling Tony Smith has Pistons like that and they cost a heck of a lot more than just a little bit. I think they have to use a custom rod too which only Jacks the price up even more.

You might try French Lake Auto Parts.

I just wish someone made moly faced rings for our engines, I am sure you could pay thru the nose for a set of custom rings. I have a 318 with factory moly rings that have well over 10k miles on it and you can still see the crosshatch in the bores. In any case, if you go chrome you will need machine work and pay close attention to the break in procedures and get your machinist's advice as well.

There really aren't any, unless by modern you mean made recently. If you mean modern design, not really. You have cast iron (bore eaters) and chrome faced (temperamental to break in) as your choices.

I am real leery of stuff painted like that one is, spray can rebuild comes to mind. I'd price it as a core if I was looking at it.

As far as I'm aware of the fat man dropped spindles but only for the independent front suspension

Click the link, discontinued part

Actually... lol, modern coil designs are a good step up from the old canister ones, but, alas, I do not believe they are setup for a 6v ignition.

Careful or MoParPro will swoop in and steal your idea. Rich, even though I am not in the market, I appreciate your efforts in this area.

Your friend has no idea how the ammeter circuit works. The only current it should be measuring is what is going to or from the battery, not the fuse panel.

Sheet metal isn't the issue, again, if I recall correctly, but rather the frame itself. Measure the clearance between the top of the spring to the frame, then subtract the height of the axle and attaching stuff, that will give you your clearances.

Your pictures aren't loading. I had a 38 Plymouth, decades ago. IIRC, the distance between the frame rail and the axle tube would be minimal after this swap.

I test batteries for a living, well I do other things too but that's one of the things I do. Do you have a meter? If so get me the following readings. With the battery not connected, what is the voltage on the battery terminals? (this is to see if the battery is fully charged) With the battery connected, but nothing turned on in the car, what is the voltage on the battery terminals? (looking for a drain in the electrical system) With the engine not running and the headlights on, what is the voltage on the battery terminals? (load test of the battery, light load) With the engine running and nothing else turned on, what is the voltage on the battery terminals? (checking the charging system) With the engine running and the headlights on, what is the voltage on the battery terminals? (checking the charging system with more load) With the engine OFF and the ignition disabled, crank the engine over, what is the voltage on the battery terminals? (maximum load test on the battery) When using a charger to charge the battery the charging voltage has to be above 6.44V, so you can hook your charger to the battery and measure that as well.

Wait you have the thermostatic fuel gauge a different animal than my 51's.

So, why could a 0.185" spacer not be used between the flywheel and the crank? Shouldn't be an issue for a competent machinist to make one up?

Not sure how well a 12v negative ground converter will work being fed by a 6v positive ground system when the sender uses the chassis ground as a path? I'm think smoke will be released.

I did assume an aftermarket 12v gauge

There are multiple states that have adopted California's nonsense. https://ww2.arb.ca.gov/our-work/programs/advanced-clean-cars-program/states-have-adopted-californias-vehicle-regulations

Not simply

That's how it starts. We're just asking questions is all.