Sniper

Dang it, I was driving thru your neck of the woods today and was thinking about a visit. Then I realized I was in C city and not Sweetwater. Getting old sucks.

You are correct, if you want the ammeter to read properly, otherwise it reads backwards. No idea on the wiring question though. I usually use a generic hot rod style wiring harness and custom wire the vehicle.

I looked thru my FSM, no info on the fuse. Looked thru my parts manuals, no info on fuses. However, I found this https://youtu.be/rjHNHzlHFjE 14A fuse

Are they welded or riveted on? If riveted, a nut and bolt can work, if you aren't a welder like I am not.

I got to thinking about my suggestion for that connection I have a voltmeter in my aftermarket gauge cluster so I can get away with using the solenoid as a pickup point. But, if you are going to use the stock ammeter, then you need to use the generator side of the ammeter as the connection point. There are no 12v sockets for the lights, I am still using the stock sockets in my 51, just put 12 bulbs in them. Generally, 1157 for the taillights and 1156 for the front turn signals. I don't remember any of the other bulb numbers though, a good parts store can get a 12v version of any 6v bulb. I did put new contacts in when I ran new wires. Also, 12v circuits use half the current a 6v one would. So you do not need to upsize the wiring and 6v wiring is overkill for 12v, if you are going that way,

Be better off spending that money on the FSM. You can get the FSM, parts manual and other literature on CD from Rock Auto for a few dollars more.

Pretty sure a good valve adjustment will get some of it back.

You'd think. When I got my 51 it's compression number were all around 50 psi per hole. Two years later, they are still there. Not an issue to me, it runs fine and I am building a 230 for it anyway.

the problem with using shop air is that it contains moisture, that will freeze up inside a working AC system. Which is why AC systems have desiccant in there, to trap any residual moisture. Shop air will overwhelm that, even if your have a moisture trap on your air line. Use nitrogen of you have it.

Make sure you have a new gasket on hand for that plug. Odds are some of the valves are stuck open.

Just remember once you get the engine running it's going to smoke until it burns off that excess oil

I tried using Kroil for that, the valve laughed. Use brake fluid and a plastic faced hammer. I used a Precision Oiler to get the fluid on the valve stem from above and some From Below then tap them close with the plastic faced hammer crank the engine over to pop them up worked it a couple of times that way and 2 years later they're still free.

Modern sheet metal is a lot thinner, easier to pop things out.

First off, this belongs in the classified section, not here. Secondly, what is it and if you say a flathead six I will taunt you again.

It would depend on if the fuse panel is going to be a constant supply or a switched supply. Constant supply, at the battery side of the stater solenoid, thru a fusible link. Switched supply, at the ignition switch, thru a fusible link, where the red wire is connected to the switch.

I don't see any pressure readings. You don't know that you have a leak, all you do know is that you do not have a working AC system. Many things can cause that.

This myth needs taken out, shot, hung, quartered, drawn and run thru the wood chipper. Exhausts NEVER need back pressure. If you have back pressure you are choking your engine. https://www.motortrend.com/news/engine-masters-ep-9-busts-the-backpressure-myth-3-vs-2-5-inch-exhaust/

Rockauto crosses PA's OEM part number to the following https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=1550929 The specs give the dimensions.

the easy fix is a lift. My son and I changed the oil in the trans and rear end this past spring. It really wasn't an issue.

So what do you do if the surface is not flat? In the link I go thru a new water pump and I check the gasket surface for flatness, it wasn't so I fixed it. Same repair would apply here http://www.yourolddad.com/cooling-system

They also didn't break down like a lot of the competitors. Classic tortoise and hare. A Petty Plymouth

95 kmh? 95 mph?

Those are some pretty holy floors and the Plymouth Doctor is no longer making them.

Exactly and the noisiest part is the cooling fan. I drove from Memphis to San Diego in my 64 300, 4.10 gears and a three speed manual. It sang to me. But back then the speed limit was 55. Which I never did, lol.

New rear drums, $89 https://www.ebay.com/itm/312278878867?hash=item48b5458a93%3Ag%3AuREAAOSwqRBbR6R5&fits=Year%3A1948|Model%3AP15+Deluxe|Make%3APlymouth