Sniper

If you remove the aligning pin from the hubs, any mopar steelie with the 4.5" bolt pattern will fit up.

I think the point I was trying to make to you was that posting outdated part numbers that don't cross is less than no help. I was trying to get you to find that part and show me up, lol. I did try to find that part number, btw, all that came up is 1054, which is just the bearing itself. While I agree that people ought to take more of hand in finding their own parts before they ask here we must remember the flip side of that coin, if someone in the future is looking for that part and the info is posted here they could, theoretically, find it with out asking, assuming they look, lol. Damned if you do damned if you don't. The Mopar PN for the assembly is 862859, which I find in a few places. https://www.ebay.com/itm/273604294434

Not seeing either 2P-1054 or 671 915 listed in that Ebay link. But according to that Ebay ad it's the same release bearing as the on on my A833, Not sure about that. So I did a search on pn 614036, which is what the Ebay as says the PN is. Advanced Auto, Autozone and O'Reilly's list it, but all say does not fit a 54 Savoy

Black and satin is too rich. Black and glossy is oil burning. Dude, that was three and a half years ago. Past Sniper is kicking Now Sniper's butt. Future Sniper is in trouble, lol.

That damn Sniper, he's like Savoir Faire, he's every where. lol, I do not remember that part.

Rubber is too flexible, it'll warp.

Unfortunately, Autolite points and especially condensors, are no longer new and haven't been for decades. You may be setting yourself up for disaster.

.Got a useful source?

Mopar part number 671 915, 38-54 (at least, my book stops in 54) all Plymouth. https://www.ebay.com/itm/292959952456 I'd replace both

That would be because they used water and a no pressure cooling system, be like boiling a pot of water on the stove, at 212 (altitude depending) it starts to turn to steam. More modern engines, with a pressure cap, raise that temperature.

I cut a bit of fuel hose to slide over the stems and prevent the hubcap from cutting my stem. You can still get the right stems, look for a tractor place or an old school tire shop. MIlton Industries makes them, NAPA NTH 90282

Anytime

Not sure if a coil spring compressor will be useful here, I doubt it. Here's the FSM instructions

He's got carb issues, fix that first then see where you are.

No, but you'll have an issue with the aligning pin. I have test fitted later Mopar Steelies, Cop Car rims to be exact, on my 51, other than the pin the fit fine. Currently I am running 2005-2011 Charger/300/Magnum/Challenger steelies in the back with 255/50R17 tires, just about perfect, for the back.

That end of the tie rod assembly barely moves vertically, it is constrained by the pitman arm. Pull the coil springs and you can cycle the suspension all you need to sort it out. But I think you are ok.

On my 51 there is nothing to hook onto. The tabs are all there is. I looked in the parts manual to see what I could see, I see nothing useful, lol.

I don't think a hone will fix that. You seem to have a real crusty looking ridge at about 8 o'clock in #6. Unless you can scrape that off I think it would mess up any hone job you tried.

You can get the paper filters easily, GF124 is the part number. You can even get a bronze version of the filter. The filter housing, $30 free shipping https://tinyurl.com/29ps2b4x

Absolutely not.

A little thicker than yours https://www.mcmaster.com/4061T323/

NOS rubber tend to fail quickly

That seems off, I would expect the resistance of 6 same part number plugs to be a lot closer in value than the highest being 3x the lowest reading, In fact I would expect the resistance to be a heck of a lot closer to zero than the lowest plug is reading. Well, come to find out the Autolite 386 is a resistor plug and it's resistance is supposed to be 5k, lol. I can't find a listing for a 29 DeSoto, but for 1930 they list an Autolite 388, which is a bit hotter than the 386. But that is still a resistor plug. The '30 non resistor plugs are Champion 516 or AC C88L.

Neither, the heat range refers to how hot the plug itself runs. You want them hot enough to keep from fouling but not so hot as to cause preignition. I assume it's damp from gas? Does it smell like gas. Tuning the carb is the best way to fix the rich running, changing plugs won't do that. But it sounds more like a distribution issue. I suppose it could be a weak ignition system. Originally, your plug wires were solid core. Those work fine for your application since you have no electronics to interfere with. Non Resistor plugs were standard for you too, again, they work fine for you application for the same reasons. No idea on NAPA wires though, I prefer cut to length, spiral core wires myself. Here's how I did my 51 http://www.yourolddad.com/plug-wires