Sniper

the question was about how to replace the tail shaft mounted mechanical PARKING brake with something else That has ZERO to do with the hydraulics of the SERVICE brake system. You can have no hydraulics at all and the parking brake will be unaffected.

Not really. All a cheap volt meter can tell you is that it is neither open, nor shorted. It cannot tell you the value of the condenser and that does matter. Too much capacitance, or too little will cause the points to erode and which one of the contacts that is eroding tells you which direction you condenser is off. https://austin7club.org/Ignition Condensors.htm If you really want to get into the weeds with this, lol.

Oil viscosity too When you exceed the minimum size needed to carry the expected load, anything past that is gravy on the biscuit when all you need is the biscuit. Though there is a substantial difference between short term peak loads and long term carrying capacity. IOW, the size starter cable Keith mentions is undersized IF the expected current load was continuous, being that it's a momentary load you can get away with the size used. Or course, wire design plays a part in it too. Soild core, coarse strand and fine strand copper wires conduct good, better and best in that order. You starter cables had best be fine strand and copper. Also remember that most info on the web about starter current draw is talking about a 12v or higher system, 6v requires twice the amperage of a 12v system to do the same job.

Halfway thru the four days of no electricity snowmageddon brought me I remembered I had a generator, yeah I know, lol. I pulled it out of storage and went to fill the tank. the tank was rusty. Mid you I had only ever fired it up once, about three years earlier, right after I bought it, drained the tank and put it in storage. So I fabbed up a temp tank, used a two gallon plastic tank I had, drilled a hole in a bottom corner to screw in a barbed hose fitting and plumbed it to the carb. Bungee corded it to the top of the original tank and filled it up, put the cap on and ran it. No issues, I think the cap self vented, or at least allowed air into the can in a vacuum situation, in any case it needed the cap on otherwise it would splash gas out the opening. Ran just fine. Not sure I'd use something like that on the road, for a static test run, yes.

You fill the reservoir with the jack down, otherwise there is nowhere for the fluid to drain out of the cylinder when it is extended.

Simple, the top holds the float retainer in place, evidently there is an issue with that retainer. Bet if you pressed it down so that the retainer was even with the bowl top you'd see an issue. Looking at that retainer in the OP's pic, it is in sad shape. A new one https://www.carburetor-parts.com/retainer-85-801 I would also recheck and double check the drop and closed settings of the float, with the retainer in the proper place. Carefully note how Carter has you check the float for level side to side as well as distance from the bowl top. Here's a link to the Carter manual on servicing these carbs.

15 inches at idle is pretty low< i get 21 which is pretty good. https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/mastering-the-basics-reading-a-vacuum-gauge/

I wouldn't mind having one of these, not this one and not at this price either, lol.

All I know is that there is a screw that holds my ignition switch in the dash of my 51, it's behind the dash. I dunno about your Chrysler though

Cashew dust is not cashew oil. Nor does adding anything to brake FLUID reduce lining wear, unless that additive cause the fluid to leak, get on the linings and lessen the friction or lessen the hydraulic pressure involved. Really poor write ups from these sources. Not to mention the number of typos in the Academia "paper" makes one suspect who the heck wrote it? An idiot?

The condenser might have a date code on it, don't know if the points would.

This is what I did for my 51. http://www.yourolddad.com/plug-wires

A dual master cylinder will do nothing extra in this regard. There is a reason stock parking brake setups do not use the hydraulics to accomplish this. That would be because they are not designed for continuous pressure application and a leak anywhere in the system will fail the brakes. You have three choices here. Fab up some sort of pinion mounted parking brake. Swap in a newer style rear axle with brakes that have a parking feature built in, I saw a claim that someone swapped in later brakes on the existing axle. If that is true that would be an option. No parking brake, park it in gear and chock the wheels.

The link I posted tells you how

Phasing is built into the driveshaft, nothing you can do about it short of cutting an end off and redoing it. Unless you have a two piece setup with a built in slip joint, which isn't the B&T driveshaft. You used to be able to get NOS housings and all the parts to rebuild as a kit for the B&T setup, not sure if you still can. But at this point you are approaching the cost of a conversion driveshaft. I know just the housing is $105 on ebay, I think Bernbaum's has the whole kit for $200.

Good luck using the stock trans mounted parking brake to stop your car in any manner where the word emergency comes to play. Eventually? yes, emergency? no, unless emergency room is what you mean.

Actually, it is. https://www.demandaam.com/technical-support/aam-technical-tips/driveshaft-balancing Once you pull the driveshaft off to get it balanced and factory setup is moot. But since it can only go one one of two ways try the other position and see if it makes a difference..

The bowl vent is the well the accelerator pump link occupies.

Don't forget to put the housing and boot on before you put the pin in, BTDT.

Search function, its been covered here

I really hate this thinking. It's his car to do with as he see fit. If that bothers someone then they can try to make an offer the owner can't refuse to save it or they can shut up. It is a binary choice. Of course when your mindset is "how much can I get for it" rather than how much can I enjoy tinker with it and driving it, well you are probably in the wrong place.

All of that is addressable and Scotty's conversion goes into that detail.

Well, having a tester helps limit the potential, but condensers dry out over time and at some point even the NOS stuff will be DOA. I would shop Mouser or something for a capacitor of the proper value and wire that in. Or, as in my case, go electronic ignition using OEM parts. I understand that this is not an option for judged cars, so there is that to consider.

I think I would disagree on the unnecessary part and they can be hidden if need be, A simple voltage drop test will tell you the state of the circuit feeding the headlights.

Over kill on amperage is ok when talking about relays. I run 30A ones even though I have LED headlights, GE Nighthawks. Not sure what headlights you are running, but current draw specs should be available whatever they are, just remember to double that number because you have two headlights. The stock head lamps for a 48 Plymouth draw 8.6A on high, that is 17.2A for the pair. If you have converted to 12V then it is 5A per bulb, 10A total. Do not forget to to protect the circuit with a fuse or fusible link, maybe a self resetting circuit breaker.