Sniper

This is what I did for my 51. http://www.yourolddad.com/plug-wires

A dual master cylinder will do nothing extra in this regard. There is a reason stock parking brake setups do not use the hydraulics to accomplish this. That would be because they are not designed for continuous pressure application and a leak anywhere in the system will fail the brakes. You have three choices here. Fab up some sort of pinion mounted parking brake. Swap in a newer style rear axle with brakes that have a parking feature built in, I saw a claim that someone swapped in later brakes on the existing axle. If that is true that would be an option. No parking brake, park it in gear and chock the wheels.

The link I posted tells you how

Phasing is built into the driveshaft, nothing you can do about it short of cutting an end off and redoing it. Unless you have a two piece setup with a built in slip joint, which isn't the B&T driveshaft. You used to be able to get NOS housings and all the parts to rebuild as a kit for the B&T setup, not sure if you still can. But at this point you are approaching the cost of a conversion driveshaft. I know just the housing is $105 on ebay, I think Bernbaum's has the whole kit for $200.

Good luck using the stock trans mounted parking brake to stop your car in any manner where the word emergency comes to play. Eventually? yes, emergency? no, unless emergency room is what you mean.

Actually, it is. https://www.demandaam.com/technical-support/aam-technical-tips/driveshaft-balancing Once you pull the driveshaft off to get it balanced and factory setup is moot. But since it can only go one one of two ways try the other position and see if it makes a difference..

The bowl vent is the well the accelerator pump link occupies.

Don't forget to put the housing and boot on before you put the pin in, BTDT.

Search function, its been covered here

I really hate this thinking. It's his car to do with as he see fit. If that bothers someone then they can try to make an offer the owner can't refuse to save it or they can shut up. It is a binary choice. Of course when your mindset is "how much can I get for it" rather than how much can I enjoy tinker with it and driving it, well you are probably in the wrong place.

All of that is addressable and Scotty's conversion goes into that detail.

Well, having a tester helps limit the potential, but condensers dry out over time and at some point even the NOS stuff will be DOA. I would shop Mouser or something for a capacitor of the proper value and wire that in. Or, as in my case, go electronic ignition using OEM parts. I understand that this is not an option for judged cars, so there is that to consider.

I think I would disagree on the unnecessary part and they can be hidden if need be, A simple voltage drop test will tell you the state of the circuit feeding the headlights.

Over kill on amperage is ok when talking about relays. I run 30A ones even though I have LED headlights, GE Nighthawks. Not sure what headlights you are running, but current draw specs should be available whatever they are, just remember to double that number because you have two headlights. The stock head lamps for a 48 Plymouth draw 8.6A on high, that is 17.2A for the pair. If you have converted to 12V then it is 5A per bulb, 10A total. Do not forget to to protect the circuit with a fuse or fusible link, maybe a self resetting circuit breaker.

If you remove the aligning pin from the hubs, any mopar steelie with the 4.5" bolt pattern will fit up.

I think the point I was trying to make to you was that posting outdated part numbers that don't cross is less than no help. I was trying to get you to find that part and show me up, lol. I did try to find that part number, btw, all that came up is 1054, which is just the bearing itself. While I agree that people ought to take more of hand in finding their own parts before they ask here we must remember the flip side of that coin, if someone in the future is looking for that part and the info is posted here they could, theoretically, find it with out asking, assuming they look, lol. Damned if you do damned if you don't. The Mopar PN for the assembly is 862859, which I find in a few places. https://www.ebay.com/itm/273604294434

Not seeing either 2P-1054 or 671 915 listed in that Ebay link. But according to that Ebay ad it's the same release bearing as the on on my A833, Not sure about that. So I did a search on pn 614036, which is what the Ebay as says the PN is. Advanced Auto, Autozone and O'Reilly's list it, but all say does not fit a 54 Savoy

Black and satin is too rich. Black and glossy is oil burning. Dude, that was three and a half years ago. Past Sniper is kicking Now Sniper's butt. Future Sniper is in trouble, lol.

That damn Sniper, he's like Savoir Faire, he's every where. lol, I do not remember that part.

Rubber is too flexible, it'll warp.

Unfortunately, Autolite points and especially condensors, are no longer new and haven't been for decades. You may be setting yourself up for disaster.

.Got a useful source?

Mopar part number 671 915, 38-54 (at least, my book stops in 54) all Plymouth. https://www.ebay.com/itm/292959952456 I'd replace both

That would be because they used water and a no pressure cooling system, be like boiling a pot of water on the stove, at 212 (altitude depending) it starts to turn to steam. More modern engines, with a pressure cap, raise that temperature.

I cut a bit of fuel hose to slide over the stems and prevent the hubcap from cutting my stem. You can still get the right stems, look for a tractor place or an old school tire shop. MIlton Industries makes them, NAPA NTH 90282