Sniper
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Everything posted by Sniper
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It's still about a half inch shorter than what your original setup was at. If they can find a 6 bolt flywheel that will work a spacer could be made.
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You can wire it that way.
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There can be a snubber diode inside the relay box, that would make it polarity sensitive. Since the picture relay doesn't specify any polarity sensitive connections I wouldn't worry about how it got wired. Generally, if it has a diode it shows it like on this pic between 85 and 86
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Making a replacement drag link (1953 B4-B)
Sniper replied to 41/53dodges's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Ouch, not sure where you are spending $46 each for tie rod ends. I think a quality LHT tap of the proper size is more than $160 all on it's own. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/taps/thread-size~11-16-18/ -
Not seeing the compatibility here, lol. Be cheaper to drop in a more modern v8 and trans, keeping the original frame. In the download section is an article about swapping a 318 into one of these era cars.
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You could use a shop vac to suction out the debris as you were drilling.
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Rather MacGyver it
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He'll ugly it up. If there was ever a case of a car being on meth, Bad Chad was involved.
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Making a replacement drag link (1953 B4-B)
Sniper replied to 41/53dodges's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Rockauto lists new tie rod ends for reasonable money. As for the link dimensions, can't help, but you already have the info you need to figure it out, you can measure the steering arm locations to figure it out, just remember you will want to take the tie rods end thread engagement into account when determining the drag link length. Don't forget to aign the front wheels to the proper location before measuring. -
If I was going to swap in a different engine I would go with a 318. Because I have one and not a 360 on the stand, lol. There is actually an article I uploaded to the tech section that details that swap. But be warned, some of the parts suppliers are out of business.
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straight 6's sound like tractors, lol.
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None of that matters, the flywheel is now physically closer to the block than it was originally, which means the bell housing is too deep and the clutch assembly won't work. Your machine shop screwed you. https://poly318.com/poly-318-crankshafts-transmissions/
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That is exactly the issue I had.
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I bet that was a hoot.
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And cavort with women of loose morals. Hmm, substitute gunfights for fist fights and you could be talking about sailors, lol.
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I used short lengths of fuel hose over my valve stems to do what those chrome covers do, might be what you are seeing? Someone lost a cover so substituted some hose.
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I could be wrong and Lord knows it wouldn't be the first time but I don't think you're generators capable of a 60 amp output
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That is not where the battery ground goes. Usually goes in the forward most passenger side head bolt, at least on my 51. I would put it under the water housing bolt before I put it where you got it.
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I think what Loren is telling us is that you can swap the side gears over if you need to. My suggestion would be if you go that route to consider replacing the bearings.
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I just wanted to clarify in case anybody was confused in regards to the term gas when used with the yellow Teflon tape. I remember years ago when I bought my first high volume fuel pump for a big block. The instructions were very clear not to use anything on the threads you could potentially crack the housing. Of course that is back when you can still buy American-made stuff that you know had quality built into it
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Natural gas and propane aren't gasoline. I haven't had any issues using plain old white teflon tape on gasoline fittings, or nat gas and propane for that matter., lol. https://www.oatey.com/products/oatey-yellow-gas-line-ptfe-thread-seal-tape--1863212606 In any case, the biggest complaint about teflon tape, of any color, is that it can get onto the fuel system and clog things up. But that is more of a issue on how the tape was applied. You don't wrap the tape over the end of the fitting.
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I believe racer X's problem was a poorly made adapter and not the OEM parts he used. I think you're dwelling too much on the weight. I don't think it's an issue but I can't prove it
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No idea when it came out I'm guessing 20 minutes after you put the hammer to it, lol. But to cross reference that part number https://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/convert/BIG-A/92080
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You are slacking Andy. I see a finned oil filter, finned coil cover, finned radiator cap BUT No finned air cleaner, no finned oil cap and no finned head. Tsk, tsk I guess you are only half finnish lol
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I would suggest going to an industrial fitting supplier or maybe even a ag supplier with your old fittings and seeing if they can help, those guys usually know what stuff is
