Sniper

That seems off, I would expect the resistance of 6 same part number plugs to be a lot closer in value than the highest being 3x the lowest reading, In fact I would expect the resistance to be a heck of a lot closer to zero than the lowest plug is reading. Well, come to find out the Autolite 386 is a resistor plug and it's resistance is supposed to be 5k, lol. I can't find a listing for a 29 DeSoto, but for 1930 they list an Autolite 388, which is a bit hotter than the 386. But that is still a resistor plug. The '30 non resistor plugs are Champion 516 or AC C88L.

Neither, the heat range refers to how hot the plug itself runs. You want them hot enough to keep from fouling but not so hot as to cause preignition. I assume it's damp from gas? Does it smell like gas. Tuning the carb is the best way to fix the rich running, changing plugs won't do that. But it sounds more like a distribution issue. I suppose it could be a weak ignition system. Originally, your plug wires were solid core. Those work fine for your application since you have no electronics to interfere with. Non Resistor plugs were standard for you too, again, they work fine for you application for the same reasons. No idea on NAPA wires though, I prefer cut to length, spiral core wires myself. Here's how I did my 51 http://www.yourolddad.com/plug-wires

No muffler headers tells me all I need to know about that owner.

Why? Powell could have saved himself lots of time and money had he put his effort into designing a truck that fit a more current frame rather than a prewar design the was more than a decade out of production when he started.

Took the Cambridge into the shop for it's annual inspection. I had to teach the inspector the three on the tree shift pattern, lol. It passed. However, he did comment that I drive it a lot. Had 750 miles on the odometer last inspection, 851 this time. I need to get into it more often. Put more miles rolling around on the concrete under her that in the seat driving her, lol.

Or just pull the ends of the link, the insulation will stretch if the link is gone. Of course a meter will tell the tale too, lot's of options.

Unlike a regular fuse, a fusible link doesn't pop immediately. It can handle momentary high current spikes. Think of it as a really slo blo fuse. If you want to know more you are going to have to join SAE and read up on the white papers.

Same here, every weekend I washed the car, used an SOS pad to clean the whitewalls. Got waxed once a month.

lol, there is a reason they won't tell you, liability. But seriously you already have the answer for what size to use. The hard part is sorting out what sized wire you need, not what size fusible link. When I converted to 12v I used an alternator rated at 78A max output. To handle that safely I need a 6 AWG wire, which should be protected by an 10 AWG fusible link. So what you need is a chart showing the carrying capacity of wire.

Since Powell started making their truck about 13 years after the 41 MY I don't see how Chrysler had any decision making to do regarding Powell's choice of chassis. Powell could have chosen a newer chassis instead.

I have several digital inclinometers that work for that. Heck you can get an old school magnetic protractor for this. https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Level-Tool-700-Magnetic/dp/B00004T807/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=magnetic+protractor&qid=1692298571&sr=8-5

It would confuse the electricians, lol This FAQ explains why https://www.wiringdepot.com/jt-t-tech-articles/Fusible-Link-Wire-FAQs

Politics is generally a bad thing to bring up in places where politics isn't the object of the forum. So let us refrain and keep this place nice. Thanks.

This is week 7 of my new work truck, I put right at 12k miles on it, I was on vacation for a week and a half of those 7 weeks so no mileage accrued then. In fact I was supposed to be in Amarillo yesterday and today, but the customer wanted to reschedule.

Wire is rated by gauge size not ampacity, though there is a minimum gauge size needed to carry a certain amperage. Had to replace the wire for my stove, 50A circuit. 6 gauge wire is rated at 55A max capacity and that will drop off depending on how long the run is. Wire construction and composition also plays a part in it's ability to carry current. Lot's of things go into rating a wire's current carrying capacity and gauge is just one factor.

Not a new issue not isolated to Coker tires, the BFG Radial T/A crowd has the same issues. Odds are good your new tires will do the same. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/263180-new-tires-whitewalls-turns-brown-what-to-do/

https://p15-d24.com/topic/40206-carter-bb-sizes-cfm-ratings/

When I rewired my 51 all the supply wires had a fusible link at the battery end of the wire. My 2 speed electric fan has a fusible link for each power line to the relay.

How do you correct camber on a solid front axle like a 37 has? I can't look up the specifics on a 37 Plymouth, but generally you bend the axle to correct camber. In this case, I'd look for an alignment shop that does HD trucks, they are setup to do this kind of work. Whereas you and I, and most car alignment shops, are not. I did the alignment on my 51 but it has an adjustment for camber. I would very closely inspect the king pins for wear though.

Good call, the T bolts will work with a carb or EFI, I'd be hesitant to use the spring clamps on an EFI setup, probably not an issue with most of the vehicles this site covers, but some of us are going EFI on them and it's a thing to remember on your DD's, just in case.

Those hose clamps are not what I would use, they tend to chew up the hose. I would use either a T bolt (EFI) hose clamp Or a constant tension (spring) clamp

I used a walker kit, 15021B. Not sure if that is correct for your carb though. Might want to run the carb number past the folks here to verify what you have. If you want the needle and seat assembly, like I show, then the Walker pn's is 31-509. This is included in the kit I listed. https://www.carburetor-parts.com/carter-ball-needle-seat

At idle it should not be doing anything. The fuel is being "injected" into the carb because the inlet is not being controlled. As Greg mentioned, it's either the float or the needle/seat assembly. My 51's carb did the same thing when I bought it, a good rebuild fixed it, the cause was a bad needle tip. Attached is the rebuild instructions I used. BandB carb.pdf

I am running an alternator with a 12v negative ground conversion, so no idea how the generator and regulator setup should be for your application. I would take advantage of this opportunity to clean up and tighten the ammeter connections, odds are they have never had that done and this is the #1 issue with ammeters. In a 6v positive ground system none of the solenoid terminals is wired to ground. The solenoid is grounded thru the mounting bracket. There are three terminals on the stock solenoid. Two big ones that connect to the battery negative post and the starter and a smaller one that is connects to the start button in that drawing, this is the one that energizes the solenoid.

Wrong sending unit, there is no gauge and ground label on the factory sender, it is labelled 1 and 2 and connects to the same terminal labels on the gauge.