Sniper

All loads need to be on the generator side of the ammeter, not the battery side. The only thing you really want on the battery side is the battery. The ammeter is there to show the state of charge to/from the battery. Any other load on the battery side of the ammeter will show a discharge on the meter. In your drawing your charge wire needs to move to where your fuse wire is, keep the fuse wire there. If the meter reads backwards, swap the wire on the ammeter.

Did you install the side seals too? Did you install the seal so that the open side of the lip faces in? Should look like this (not a mopar application shown, but seal direction is the same)

I go to NAPA, in person Unless it's a Sunday and I have to have it. I use Rock Auto when it's not time critical and I am shopping for best prices. I use Autozone for used oil. Lol. Actually, I tend to buy my Chemicals there,

In order to save money with effort one has to have the skill set to do that. That right there kills more projects than anything else. Someone tears into a project, then realizes they are in over their head and the project dies, sold off or stuffed into storage to "get around to it" one day.

Part number is 1646428 Googling that shows a number of possibilities.

That's a good question sam. When I first used that motive bleeder I had two empty calipers in the front and who knows how long it had been since the last time it was bled. 1 quart of brake fluid was sufficient to do all four quarters for me. And the old brake fluid actually looked really good

It would really depend on which cylinder tower the rotor in the distributor is pointing at. You can pull all the plugs if you want, but that will make the engine turn over much faster with the starter, that might make it tougher to get close. Since both #1 and #6 are at TDC simultaneously you want the one that is on the compression stroke, I like the ping pong ball idea, put one on #1 and #6's spark plug hole so you know which is on the compression stroke. That will be the cylinder that should be firing.. Once you get that one lined up to the timing marks, you may be able to tug on the fan belt to align things, having all the plugs out would help this. Look and see if the rotor is pointed at the correct plug wire. If so you should be ok there.

The 4 digit date code didn't go into effect till 2000, 7 years after the assumed manufacture date of these tires.

I have the motive setup, you do not need speedy bleeders. Hands down it beats any other DIY method I have ever used or heard of. YOu fill up the tank with your flavor of brake fluid, screw on the adapter to the M/C, hook it to the tank, pump it up and then you go to your bleeders, put on a clear tube into a drain container and open the bleeder, let it run till it's clear and bubble free, close the bleeder, go to the net one. Check the tank pressure after bleed #2, probably still good, and move to #3, then do #4, done.

If you fuse the battery supply then any failure will render all the circuits dead. If you fuse the individual relays then only the failed circuit is affected. I assume these are for the headlights? If so the high beams are usually on a self resetting circuit breaker rather than a fuse.

I was going to comment on lack of fusing. Each blue wire should have it's own fuse to protect the circuit. As it appears, you have all the battery - feeds to the relays going to the same bus and no circuit protection. Or you could replace the blue wire with fusible links.

It's still about a half inch shorter than what your original setup was at. If they can find a 6 bolt flywheel that will work a spacer could be made.

You can wire it that way.

There can be a snubber diode inside the relay box, that would make it polarity sensitive. Since the picture relay doesn't specify any polarity sensitive connections I wouldn't worry about how it got wired. Generally, if it has a diode it shows it like on this pic between 85 and 86

Ouch, not sure where you are spending $46 each for tie rod ends. I think a quality LHT tap of the proper size is more than $160 all on it's own. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/taps/thread-size~11-16-18/

Not seeing the compatibility here, lol. Be cheaper to drop in a more modern v8 and trans, keeping the original frame. In the download section is an article about swapping a 318 into one of these era cars.

You could use a shop vac to suction out the debris as you were drilling.

Rather MacGyver it

He'll ugly it up. If there was ever a case of a car being on meth, Bad Chad was involved.

Rockauto lists new tie rod ends for reasonable money. As for the link dimensions, can't help, but you already have the info you need to figure it out, you can measure the steering arm locations to figure it out, just remember you will want to take the tie rods end thread engagement into account when determining the drag link length. Don't forget to aign the front wheels to the proper location before measuring.

If I was going to swap in a different engine I would go with a 318. Because I have one and not a 360 on the stand, lol. There is actually an article I uploaded to the tech section that details that swap. But be warned, some of the parts suppliers are out of business.

straight 6's sound like tractors, lol.

None of that matters, the flywheel is now physically closer to the block than it was originally, which means the bell housing is too deep and the clutch assembly won't work. Your machine shop screwed you. https://poly318.com/poly-318-crankshafts-transmissions/

That is exactly the issue I had.

I bet that was a hoot.