Sniper

The 8 3/4 didn't come out till the late 50;s. You might have a similar looking ale, but give us the casting numbers so we can help sort out what you have. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/mopar-8-3-4-inch-rear-ends Info regarding earlier rear ales is slim on the internet, lol.

Looking at a 47 Chrysler schematic, the ammeter has three connections on the battery side, One is to the battery, one is to the ignition switch and the last is to the head light switch. The feed from the ammeter to the ignition switch feeds the starter push button (key in run), which then feeds the starter solenoid and engages the starter when the button is pressed. I do not see how the head lamp switch is int he circuit at all, miswire I suspect, assuming the 48 wiring is the same, I don't have a 48 schematic.

The stock pickup in the tank has an oilite insert that is the filter.

Seems more information was given.

Thew factory service manual would show you how to find it. There are innumerable threads here showing how to do it, some as recently as last week. Three of them on page two.

Next snow we get I am taking the 51 out to do donuts in a parking lot. Then maybe I'll find a raised bed railroad track and catch some air. For my finale, I will swing by the donut shop, flip off the cops and see if they can catch me. But first, I got to get my green fedora, mask and overcoat setup.

As mentioned above, RPM is the key. My 51 has 28" tall rear tires and a 3.91 gear ratio. At 65 that works out to 3042 rpm at 65. With an OD trans, ratio 0.7, 65 becomes 2130 rpm. 75 is 2457 rpm, highway speeds are 75 around here. Now, the issue becomes braking, as mentioned, and high speed stability. When I first got my 51 is was squirrely at 65. A front end redo and a good alignment took care of that.

Cars were made to be driven, not hidden away.

Why not?

Since you do not tell us what those are, then no we cannot assume to rule them out. I'm leaning towards needed a good carb cleaning and rebuild, but that assumes you did indeed set the above correctly. Your compression readings tell me you don't have valve issues, either sealing or adjustment. Not sure why you felt the need to pull the head off, hopefully you put it back together right, including the proper torquing and retorqueing of the head bolts.

A man's got to know his limitations

What did you use for a board?

What makes a plug hot or cold is the path from the center electrode to the metal shell, that is inside the plug. Eternal lengths are not really part of it.

Kind of pricey for no engine, no transmission and no mention of a title

Depends on your fab skills.

I used to own a 64 300, not a letter car though. 413 and a stick car too.

It's MoparPro and he is persona non grata around here for a reason.

I think you are missing that I have very carefully stated "fully charged battery". If your fully charged battery, less any surface charge effect is below 12.8v, on a 12v battery, then it is weak and failing, get much below 12.4 and it is not long for life. Load testing will confirm this, but without a baseline load test you really can't do much interpreting. IOW, tested when new to establish what new performance is, only then can you make more specific opinions about it's health in use. Frankly, the best load tester you can get you already have, your starter. A starter draws hundreds of amps, a hand held load tester maybe 100? It can take up to 14 hours to fully charge a lead acid battery. So odds are the battery in your car isn't fully charged in regards to this discussion. Anyway, if you really want to go down the battery rabbit hole this place has a lot of info. https://batteryuniversity.com/articles

What are you measuring during a load test? Voltage But what do I know, I've only tested thousands of batteries for the last 10 year.

Do not drill anything, not need to release the cylinder.

I test batteries for a living, last week I tested almost 650 identical 12v batteries. Had 5 bad ones and as soon as I hooked up the tester and saw the fully charged voltage I knew they were bad. The tester just confirmed it. A good battery's voltage will drop down with a steady load on it then start to climb back up. A bad battery will not come back up with a load on it, some will drop to a very low level quickly. Turning on head lights can simulate enough of a load most times. Typically, the fully charged voltage of a 12v battery is in excess of 13v. If it's about 12.6 or less it will fail a load test. I would expect to see a 6v battery somewhere near v, but I don't test those for a living. You can tell just by measuring the voltage of a fully charged battery, of course it helps if you have 650 of the same exact battery to used as a data sample, lol.

Wait, is it CW or CCW? I misremember anymore, lol

Not really, that'll use a later model key than your 47 used so it won't be able to match the door locks any more. Bernbaums might have what you need, but ask specifically about the key. In the picture of your link there is a brass button sticking out the side, that is what engages the housing and keeps the cylinder in place. To remove it you have to rotate the cylinder to the right (CW, I know) and then there should be a hole in the side of the housing that will allow you to push that button in and pull the cylinder out of the housing, BTW, that same cylinder,, STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS US12L is under $8 at Rockauto. You can even get it for less (thank moparpro) at NAPA, lol. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE98900021 Standard doesn't show that it fits a 47, but the factory parts book shows 35-54 all use the same, so it should fit. I had to have keys cut for my 51 a couple years ago, didn't have door, glove box or trunk keys. So I took them to my local locksmith and he took care of me but did mention it was a good thing I didn't need anything rekeyed as he didn't have the correct pins and they were hard to get/unavailable. At sometime int he past someone repalced my ignition lock with that US12L one so that's how I know the key won't work with the door.

Oh yeah, I got more stories of customer's not knowing what they need or have. I even have stories about customer's stuff I know more about than they did lol. If that company had paid commission on sales I would have never left and I wouldn't have to do anything other than just what I did, help customer's get what they needed. Though to be honest, the commission on that throttle cable I mentioned wouldn't have made up for the effort in involved in doing what needed to be done to get him what he needed, but then again, I am not a custom car shop either. If he had brought in the old cable I could have looked in the back of the catalog and maybe been able to set him up,

I would suggest before you put the carpet back on and after you're done prepping your floor pans you consider some sort of sound editing material as well. I prefer the roll-on elastomeric coating they use on roofs.