Sniper

I was visiting my GF's grandparent and they had a Model A, it had a cowl mounted fuel tank that gravity fed the carb, stock. That was an interesting setup.

The pump will only pump a maximum amount per stroke. As long as the feed line doesn't restrict it. At idle, the engine uses the least amount of fuel, if you wanted to try a WOT 5 mile long test, then yeah, you should probably use the same size, otherwise I wouldn't worry about it.

I have a couple, more as addendums to my website than full blown how to's. This is about the most complete how to video I have.

Not hardy, lol. I'm just a car guy that has an inquisitive mind and not a fan of formal schooling. So I read, a lot. Then I try to do monkey see, monkey do and then I figure out that half of what the car magazines print just shows they are journalism majors, not mechanics. So I read real engineering papers on the stuff, with a dictionary at hand. Lol, it's a hobby. If we added up the time and labor any of us puts into whatever we are doing on these old cars and assigned a cost to it we'd all just buy something new. It'd be cheaper that way. Oh I will, when/if I ever get it up and running. Right now I am mentally locked because I have a 230 to rebuild to replace my 218 and I figure it'll be easier to just do it all to the 230, but there is so much I could do to the 230 to "improve it" and then there is the OD trans swap I want to do and the rear drums, add AC, etc, etc. I need to just cut it up into chunks and do it one bit at a time instead of seeing everything and freezing up due to the scope. Yeah, I know, I'm mental, lol.

Throttle body injection is EFI. EFI means electronic fuel injection. There are many types of EFI, TBI, MPFI (batch fire and sequential), Direct injection, etc. All of them a form of EFI. TBI could be regarded as essentially an electronic replacement for a carb, one that uses pressurized fuel thru a metered solenoid controlled by a computer to replace the vacuum operated fuel delivery system of a carb. This injection delivers a predetermined amount of fuel to the intake, based on programming and sensor feedback, without regard as to when the intake valve opens. Batch fire multi port fuel injection is very similar to TBI with the major difference being that there is an injector at each intake port rather than upstream of the intake. Other than new holes in the intake, and associated plumbing, there is not much to adding this to any intake. All the sensors and such are the same as TBI. This system delivers an identical, or as identical as humanly possible, shot of fuel to each cylinder. This injection delivers a predetermined amount of fuel to the intake PORT, based on programming and sensor feedback, without regard as to when the intake valve opens. Sequential Multi Port Fuel Injection (which is what I think you are calling EFI here) is almost the same as batchfire with the exception of being able to time when the injection happens, usually just before and as the intake valve opens. Still delivers the same amount of fuel for each cylinder and still uses the same sensors and such as TBI would, with the exception of the timing of the injection which requires more resolution in regards to crank and cam position and a more sophisticated computer to do those calculations. Theoretically, not sure if any production system did this, you could tailor the fuel delivered to each cylinder based on need. This would essentially require the computer to be able to monitor each cylinder's needs. Doable, but right now very complicated, essentially a wide band O2 sensor for each cylinder though there has been some research into using the spark plugs as a sensor., they are fragile and expensive so I am not holding my breath. Direction injection is similar to sequential MPFI, but delivers the fuel directly into the cylinder, after the intake valve is closed. My 2015 BMW has this, makes 300 hp and make 36 mpg at 80 mph. However, that is beyond the scope of a DIY type, the head has to have provisions for the injectors, I guess someone could cast or mod a flathead head easier than an OHV/OHC head. Again, there has been research into making a combination spark plug and direct injector for retrofitting, though I am not holding my breath there, lol. The only real difference in cost would be the added injectors and intake mods needed to fit them if you wanted batch or sequential fire MPFI. Though in our specific applications it would be more difficult to run this as there are 6 cylinders being fed by 3 intake ports. Which means you'd need an injector twice the size as you'd normally need (remember you are feeding 2 cylinders per injector). When injectors get too large they tend to lose fine control for less than WOT applications. Not sure how or even if that would apply here but I suspect fuel distribution would be horrible with the first intake valve to open after the injection even to be too rich and the second intake valve to open being too lean. This might be ameliorated by injecting twice per cycle rather than once, but some fine attention to detail and maybe even tying the injection timing more closely to the engine timing being needed, much like sequential does it. Not sure though if the ECU I am using is capable of double firing the injectors in sequential mode or not. You really need to clarify what you mean by EFI, but other that intake mods, no need for a new intake as any reasonably competent machine shop can add injector bungs and fab a fuel rail for just about any intake manifold. Not to mention there is no multiport intake available for our engines. All the rest is going to cost the same regardless of what version of the 4 EFI types you want to run. To be honest, my EFI setup is a hybrid TBI and batch fire setup. Most TBI systems use a lower fuel pressure and physically larger injectors than the other setups, but my setup is using MPFI pressures and injectors with the injectors being in the throttle body upstream of the intake rather than being in the intake at the other end. Simply to deal more easily with the odd ball three intake ports but six cylinders arraignment we have. I could, if I chose to, have my intake modded to fit three injectors, one for each intake port and go to batch fire MPFI, some added wiring and computer tuning needed as well, but that would be it. But, see my above concerns about fuel delivery in our siamesed intake setup. Yes you could replace the entire stock fuel delivery system with new parts, tank, lines, fuel pump and carb for much less that I am spending and no I will never make the difference up in fuel "savings". So why am I doing it? When was the last time you saw a fuel injected MoPar flat head? Basically, it's the same answer given by the man who was asked why he wanted to climb the mountain. Because it is there, lol.

I don't know that i would agree that EFI was a real improvement in economy so much as it was a real improvement in meeting emissions standards. As for costs, well I have been putting together a dual throttle body injection setup for my 51. I have a spreadsheet with the costs, Just about a thousand dollars all in. Edit, I added in the ignition parts. EFI parts.xlsx

Here you go

If you are going to do that then use anti-freeze. I used to put petcocks with nipples in the block drains as well as one in the radiator so I can drain out the cooling system without making a mess. But finding one that didn't leak when draining was impossible, so I went with this instead https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q2NGJV7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Well there you go, lol. Ever run over a wheel chock ?

Near as I can figure it out, the Pertronix from before the company was sold were good, after the sell not so much. Corporate cheapening for more profits I suspect but that is common in all areas of auto parts these days.

Yes and I do not know of any jurisdiction, in the US anyway, that allows them to be used as a parking brake. My BMW uses an electric parking brake that applies and holds the caliper, no juice needed to hold. That might be a solution, doesn't have to be in the back.

the question was about how to replace the tail shaft mounted mechanical PARKING brake with something else That has ZERO to do with the hydraulics of the SERVICE brake system. You can have no hydraulics at all and the parking brake will be unaffected.

Not really. All a cheap volt meter can tell you is that it is neither open, nor shorted. It cannot tell you the value of the condenser and that does matter. Too much capacitance, or too little will cause the points to erode and which one of the contacts that is eroding tells you which direction you condenser is off. https://austin7club.org/Ignition Condensors.htm If you really want to get into the weeds with this, lol.

Oil viscosity too When you exceed the minimum size needed to carry the expected load, anything past that is gravy on the biscuit when all you need is the biscuit. Though there is a substantial difference between short term peak loads and long term carrying capacity. IOW, the size starter cable Keith mentions is undersized IF the expected current load was continuous, being that it's a momentary load you can get away with the size used. Or course, wire design plays a part in it too. Soild core, coarse strand and fine strand copper wires conduct good, better and best in that order. You starter cables had best be fine strand and copper. Also remember that most info on the web about starter current draw is talking about a 12v or higher system, 6v requires twice the amperage of a 12v system to do the same job.

Halfway thru the four days of no electricity snowmageddon brought me I remembered I had a generator, yeah I know, lol. I pulled it out of storage and went to fill the tank. the tank was rusty. Mid you I had only ever fired it up once, about three years earlier, right after I bought it, drained the tank and put it in storage. So I fabbed up a temp tank, used a two gallon plastic tank I had, drilled a hole in a bottom corner to screw in a barbed hose fitting and plumbed it to the carb. Bungee corded it to the top of the original tank and filled it up, put the cap on and ran it. No issues, I think the cap self vented, or at least allowed air into the can in a vacuum situation, in any case it needed the cap on otherwise it would splash gas out the opening. Ran just fine. Not sure I'd use something like that on the road, for a static test run, yes.

You fill the reservoir with the jack down, otherwise there is nowhere for the fluid to drain out of the cylinder when it is extended.

Simple, the top holds the float retainer in place, evidently there is an issue with that retainer. Bet if you pressed it down so that the retainer was even with the bowl top you'd see an issue. Looking at that retainer in the OP's pic, it is in sad shape. A new one https://www.carburetor-parts.com/retainer-85-801 I would also recheck and double check the drop and closed settings of the float, with the retainer in the proper place. Carefully note how Carter has you check the float for level side to side as well as distance from the bowl top. Here's a link to the Carter manual on servicing these carbs.

15 inches at idle is pretty low< i get 21 which is pretty good. https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/mastering-the-basics-reading-a-vacuum-gauge/

I wouldn't mind having one of these, not this one and not at this price either, lol.

All I know is that there is a screw that holds my ignition switch in the dash of my 51, it's behind the dash. I dunno about your Chrysler though

Cashew dust is not cashew oil. Nor does adding anything to brake FLUID reduce lining wear, unless that additive cause the fluid to leak, get on the linings and lessen the friction or lessen the hydraulic pressure involved. Really poor write ups from these sources. Not to mention the number of typos in the Academia "paper" makes one suspect who the heck wrote it? An idiot?

The condenser might have a date code on it, don't know if the points would.

This is what I did for my 51. http://www.yourolddad.com/plug-wires

A dual master cylinder will do nothing extra in this regard. There is a reason stock parking brake setups do not use the hydraulics to accomplish this. That would be because they are not designed for continuous pressure application and a leak anywhere in the system will fail the brakes. You have three choices here. Fab up some sort of pinion mounted parking brake. Swap in a newer style rear axle with brakes that have a parking feature built in, I saw a claim that someone swapped in later brakes on the existing axle. If that is true that would be an option. No parking brake, park it in gear and chock the wheels.

The link I posted tells you how