Sniper

Years ago when I got out of the Navy I worked at a parts store for a while. Had a customer coming needed a throttle cable for a Toyota Land Cruiser so I punched it into the computer and it only gave one engine option so I didn't ask the customer what engine he had and I looked up a throttle cable. No listing for his particular year but they showed one for a later model version. So I called our warehouse where they supposedly had the catalogs to see if they had something for his specific vehicle. And their catalog basically told them the same thing but the guy asked me on the phone what engine he had and I told him whatever the computer said that car should have. That's when the customer picked up and said oh I've got a Chevy 350 in it. So I told the guy in the warehouse never mind he's got a Chevy 350. I then asked the customer are you using the original throttle cable. He said I don't know I didn't do the swap I said well I cannot help. And he got somewhat upset that I couldn't help him and I told him look I got no book that tells me what throttle cable to use in a 1967 Toyota Land Cruiser with a Chevy 350 in it. If you were using the original cable I might be able to get one of those but since you don't know and I don't know I can't help. He's like what do I do? I said take the old one out go to the junkyard look around and see if you can find something that'll work and then if you do you can either come here and buy a new one of those or use the junkyard one whatever but right down what it is so you know next time. So yeah it isn't always the part guy or the catalog or the computer sometimes it's the customer

If you are checking a battery state of charge with a voltmeter you would expect to see 2.1 volts per cell on a fully charged battery. For a 6-volt battery you have three cells those are the caps. So 6.3 volts is about what I would expect to see for a fully charged battery that does not have a surface charge. If your charger is only putting out 6.4 volts to charge the battery with then you've got a problem with your charger. Because it should be well above that most likely above seven volts when it's charging.

I don't think that compression readings are bad enough to keep it from running. Let us know how it goes with the charged up battery

How low compression? I've had 50 psi per hole for the last 4 years and it runs fine. I think you've wetted your plugs and killed the spark either get a new set of plugs or clean your old ones really good

All you guys complaining about "the computer" fail to realize that is all most of these places have. There are no catalogs to look up and it is doubtful that will change since no one is putting out catalogs any more, at least not paper ones. When I got out of the military, back in 93, I had a job at a major chain type parts store, they were transitioning from paper to computer and we were told to toss our catalogs. We didn't. That was 30 years ago. Recently, the place I work for stopped shipping paper installation manuals with new machines, they put a QR code on them so the installer can download the PDF. Well, that doesn't work so the installation electrician installs it how they think it should be installed and then I get to have them correct all the mistakes when I show up to commission it. 17 hours doing what is normally a 2 hour job really sucks. Of course, some of those "electricians" out in the oil patch probably can't even spell electrician much less are one.

Be nice if someone too the time to put together an index for various areas with stuff like this in it.

Well, it's not difficult, but it's not cheap to get the stuff you need to do it. Which is why most just have their machine shop do the check when the block is in the shop.

magnaflux will tell you if it is a crack or not. Several ways to heck

You would think so, but I assume it doesn't?

The ignition switch provides voltage to the coil The starter button makes the starter work. Interrelated, but not sure if the ignition switch need to be in run for the starter button to work. Ok, I found a schematic. yes it appears that the ignition switch feed the starter button via the fuel gauge, so if the ignition switch isn't working odds are the starter button won't either.

So, you think you need new head bolts. Allow me to feature the world's most expensive mopar flat head bolts, $11.49 each. lol https://www.ti64.com/product-p/3722.htm

Sirius gives nothing local. While out and about for work I usually have the company truck on Sirius. At home or in the garage? FM, unless I am listening to a local sports game, then AM. Local news, local weather local events, not on Sirius.

Or, if you feel lucky, you can use a dremel or similar to remove the remainder of the lip and use a cup plug.

This is entirely possible, and if this is the case then your points are dirty enough to need a good cleaning

Dwell is adjusted by setting the gap of the points when fully open it has nothing to do with either of the external bolts on the distributor that control timing.

Voltage is important in regard to contact arcing, you want it to be above the operating voltage it is breaking.

https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/skuPage.CBF-20.html#Specifications

They make circuit breakers that pop in place of glass fuses, finding one specified for 6v though...

Run them on 12v and everyone will say "Where''s the train?".

The local Army surplus store still has old school jerry cans with old school spouts on them.

When I got my 1 Cambridge I just used the company truck, 3/4 ton and yes I was allowed to use it for personal use. Rented a U haul trailer, my advice to you is to double check the trailer. Air up the tires, grease the ball, check the lights, torque the lug nuts. All of those items needed addressed on my rental. Made the 12 hour round trip without issue.

You are not going to be able to spin the oil pump with a drill the drive gear is on the oil pump not the distributor. If you tried to spin the distributor over with a drill you'll be trying to crank the entire engine over

That depends on a few things, type of head gasket, which way you are measuring the head, type of head material, etc. Copper head gaskets are less forgiving of surface issues than a composite, both are available for the flathead. Max variance along the LENGTH of the head would be .006" and 0.003" ACROSS the head, for composite, less for copper. This is for a cast iron head, less for aluminum. As suggested, take the head to a machine shop and get it resurfaced, won't get easier than now, or cheaper.

In this picture you can see how the hard line is routed across the engine. I do not have a good picture of the distributor end of the line, sorry

In this picture you can see where the hard line for the vacuum advance hooks to the carb on my 51 Plymouth.