Sam Buchanan

Ok. I'm sure he'll get it running smoothly.

Some clearcoat and you are good to go! ?

Ok..........we have recently chewed on engine vibration problems, below are a couple of threads you will want to read: http://p15-d24.com/topic/50844-engine-mounts-p15-caution/?tab=comments#comment-539481 http://p15-d24.com/topic/50729-48-p15-clutchengine-mount-questions/?tab=comments#comment-538165 You may need a balancer but you need to know about the known engine mount issues before spending a lot of time and effort on a balancer.

He stated the engine would die only when he tried to accelerate...it idled fine otherwise. The engine isn't shutting off.

If your Dad is of a certain age he is flashing back to the horribly gruesome photos we were shown in high school of drivers literally being impaled by the steering column......he probably isn't that old but I bet he heard about that from your Granddad...... Try for a compromise.....keep the stock column but install a high-quality 3-point safety harness. Your car is looking great!

Beautiful car! Your stated the problem started after the engine warmed up. Check the idle mixture (not idle speed), it is adjusted with a screw on the side of the carb. You seem to be describing a lean mixture that appears after the engine gets hot. Try slowly turning the mixture screw each direction for smoothest idle (this is a rough adjustment) and see if the stalling problem is diminished. You do have a Service Manuel....right?

Take a close look at the timing chain cover at the front of the engine. If the seal is leaking oil will blow back and collect on the rear of the engine. The other likely source is the rear crank seal. No need to ask why my P15 and I know about these leaks......

If the spindle is the same size as the axles on my P15 the nuts is a 3/4" -16. There is a photo of the spindle and nut on my thread about building a brake adjustment tool. I bought a couple of these nuts at the local John Deere dealer and also got some from an Amazon vendor. http://p15-d24.com/topic/50182-brake-adjustment-tool-updated/?tab=comments#comment-532931

Hope you can get the LEDs to work well, they are great technology due to high output with negligible current draw.

Pete, the fact your LED bulbs have a more diverse beam pattern means something changed in the combination of light source and reflector. Light source and reflector alignment is VERY critical, a tiny change can have a major impact on reflector performance. If the LEDs are located precisely where the old bulb filaments used to be the beam pattern should be similar. Another factor can be light scatter which occurs if the light source is tossing a lot of light forward instead of back into the reflector. This might be a contributor due to the LEDs being so much brighter than the old bulbs. This is why many headlights have shields in front of the elements. There is a lot of engineering in headlight design.....change one component and that engineering can be altered radically. Fortunately, we have choices.

Wow...if you had that scanned at a document shop and made the file available via download or email a bunch of us would love to have it! (Or just shoot it with a high-quality digital camera....)

Is anyone aware of a source for sealed beam 6v LED headlights? The loss of focus with headlights that have been retrofitted with LED bulbs is due to the reflector being designed for the point-source of light from an incandescent bulb vs the large-area source of the LED cluster. Having the reflector and element working very closely in concert is key to having a properly focused headlight. A sealed beam unit where the "bulb" and reflector are designed as a system would most likely result in light dispersal more like what we are accustomed to seeing with traditional headlights. A bright light source isn't of much value (except for blinding other motorists...) if the reflector can't project a useful beam down the road.

All very nice rides, James......but they will burn a bit more fuel than our flatheads......

Somebody will probably suggest a source but if you need to adapt generic material you might start with McMaster Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/rubber Follow that link to Bumpers and Grommets. Another source: http://www.midatlanticrubber.com/industrial-products/rubber-bushings

James, if I was building a premium-quality harness I would use Tefzel (ethylene-tetrafluoroehtylene, ETFE) Mil-spec M22759 wire with tin-coated copper conductor. This is what we use in our aircraft and I've gotten spoiled to its quality and ease of use. It customarily is sold with white insulation but other colors are also available. It is used in aero-space due to the lack of noxious fumes when exposed to temps high enough to melt the insulation (>300C).

As a general rule LEDs will draw about 1/10th the current of incandescent with similar lumen output.

Make sure you are checking clearance with the tire on the ground and fully loaded. I was concerned when I first got my P15 as the front tire was scrubbing as shown in your photo when turned full lock when I had it on the jack and checking out everything. But when it was off the jack the clearances were fine.

I think everyone on this thread agrees that good grounds are very important.

I vacillated on tire choices for a couple weeks when putting my P15 back on the road. I finally settled on bias-ply Coker H78-15 Classic 3" wide whites. This is about as wide as I would want to force between the rear drum and fender. I really considered radials but was concerned about difficulty steering at parking speed. If doing it over I might go radials for a little softer ride but the speedo is accurate with the H-78s and I run about 25 psi for acceptable ride comfort. I doubt I'll wear out these tires.

I wonder if the additional grounds in modern cars may be due to the dependence on digital CAN buses multiplexing throughout the entire vehicle.

How 'bout just battery ground to engine and battery ground to body? Won't that cover it? (I hope it does.....that is all my car has as far as I know and everything works perfectly....)

87 octane, ethanol contaminated, straight out of the pump, never had a problem. Back when our cars came off the assembly line 70 octane was common at the country store.

Glad you guys are hashing this out........

So you are saying the moderators need to activate the Dad Filter?? ? ? Man...I can't imagine how cool it would be to be able to share my shop with my dad......

Just some thoughts: Worn throttle shaft allowing air to be pulled past the shaft creating lean condition? Leaking gaskets at base of carb and/or intake manifold? Problem with centrifugal advance springs or sticking weights? Something still plugged in the carb? Stay with it, I suspect you are very close to getting this sorted out.