Sam Buchanan

Much discussion on trans mounts in this thread: http://p15-d24.com/topic/50844-engine-mounts-p15-caution/?tab=comments#comment-539481

Thank you for the reply....Bernbaums is usually my fallback, just checking to see if there are better options. Will have the rubber gloves handy...

I've read threads in the archives but many of them are several years old. The rear boot on my car has split so am needing to replace it. Has anyone purchased universal joint boots recently and have a good source and part number you are happy with? Also, any tips for installation beyond what is detailed in the Service Manual? Are the leather boots on eBay a good option? Thank you!

I can add the ol' 48 has given me ample opportunities to support these local stores! ?

I am fortunate to have two such stores in town. I can remember as a teenager when the father of the current owners of the NAPA store sold parts out of his truck to local gas stations. When I bought a couple of 6v bulbs for the P15 one of the guys told me there was no telling how many miles those bulbs had traveled in his dad's truck. They also have a rack of parts books that must be at least ten feet long. I try to support these stores as much as possible!

I would order two 158L and two 158R....and wouldn't be surprised when everything worked out fine.

MT-90 is rated as 75W90 and MTL is 75W80. I suspect the lower viscosity is why MTL is recommended for street use where transmissions are often not up to high temps. Thank you for the datapoint....sounds like the MTL is a long-term solution for my car.

Rock Auto can have you a set of four for about $35 in 3-4 days....... https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/plymouth,1948,p15+deluxe,3.6l+218cid+l6,1486874,steering,tie+rod+end,7428

After getting the transmission leaks fixed I put GL-5 oil back in it. No, that is not old-school GL-1 but the bottle said "recommended for manual transmissions". However, I've had a persistent crunchy 2nd gear shift going either up or down until the transmission got hot, then 2nd would shift smoothly. I even resurrected my long-forgotten double-clutch technique. In the course of researching alternate oil I read up on Redline MT90. It is less "slippery" which promotes good synchronizer operation but I saw where it is recommended for high performance use with a hot transmission. For street use Redline recommends their MTL (GL-4) which is supposed to work even when cold. It has very low sulfer content so it plays nicely with brass synchronizers. The "crunchies" are gone, even with a cold transmission. Second slides into gear very smoothly going up or down. The only downside to the Redline is the price, a little precious at nearly $20/qt. But I consider it a fine value to get a smooth-shifting transmission. I haven't used GL-1, it may work as well, but wanted to let folks know the MTL seems to be a good option for addressing notchy shifts.

Yes....one each for each tie rod.

No need to move this thread...just start a new one in the other forum. Thanks for sharing the photo of your truck!

My Coker bias-ply tires are working well with no tubes on the standard 1948 wheels. Are you sure your new tires aren't tubeless?

I sure would like to have a digital file of that fine poster!

Are your rims too porous to run tubeless?

That is a beautiful ride! At least you don't need to worry about paint and interior work. Might be best if you post on the Truck Forum side of this site, here it is: http://p15-d24.com/forum/6-mopar-flathead-truck-forum/ As has been suggested, you will need to clean everything thoroughly so you can get a better idea of the location of the leak. Few of us ever achieve a totally leak-free flathead, lots of ancient seal technology in these vehicles.

Well....you've got the '48 to the point now where you don't have to work on it all the time, it's ready to go for the occasional spur-of-the-moment drive while you finish up the '58. Might oughta take down that classified ad before somebody wants to look at it......you will need something to drive to the cruises while your bride is driving the '58........

Yep...for us, uhhh, mature guys our cars are built out of blood, sweat, and......pain! Congratulations on a successful delivery, now the work can begin.

Two bulbs, one on each side of the speedometer.

And....I'm sure you put the drums on the correct sides..... Looking good!

The engine instruments in my P15 have been fairly well lit but the speedo was extremely dark. The wiring diagram in the service manual shows a "speedometer light" but the only dash lights (beside key and high-beam lights) in my car are two bulbs located near the engine gauges. I checked and someone had already installed #63 bulbs which are brighter than the #51 bulbs normally installed. The following post from a thread last year got my attention: http://p15-d24.com/topic/47422-bright-dash-lights/?tab=comments#comment-503267 This poster found some specialty 6v bulbs that were designed for use in microscopes. They are 7 candle-power instead of the 63"s 3 candle-power. I decided to try them and the results are impressive. Not only is the speedo very visible but I actually found the feature where the speedo numbers change colors! Please excuse the blurry photo made while underway: Here is where I bought the bulbs: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-1946-1947-1948-extra-bright-tail-light-bulb-63-replacement-6-volt-63/161410757417?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 I really like 'em! In case someone asks....I've already hot-wired the dash light switch located at the bottom of the dash....the bulbs are getting full voltage.

Made mine from a piece of scrap steel plate (think it was 1/8"), you can see it in this photo. Use the gasket as a pattern....cut...drill...done.

You are wanting to install the chrome strips on the side of the fenders, right? I think greg g is describing a method of forming beading between fender and body. Or maybe I'm just confused....again.....

I agree. I had a bad connection at the switch for a few days and didn't catch it until after an evening drive while pulling into the shop. I now watch the ammeter to verify the brake lights are actually working. I suppose the argument could be make that if all the connections are well-maintained we shouldn't have failures.....but we are working with 70+ year-old cars.....

If it is still protected by copyright it has been violated by posting on the inter-web without permission.... But I suspect the copyright has expired.

Illustration from the service manual showing the seal in the brake backing plate: