Sam Buchanan

There are very good reasons why modern cars have an alternator instead of generator and regulator.....keithb7 pointed out several of them. Here is what the alternator installation looks like in my car: There is only one wire coming from the alternator and there is no voltage regulator, the alternator is internally regulated.....very simple....and your ammeter will still work. The black box you see where the regulator used to be is a 60a fuse. It is usually necessary to fabricate a different alternator brace but that is a simple job, and you can purchase the alternator with a bracket that is adaptable to the old generator bracket. Here is what I'm using: https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/category_2/Special-Applications--6-Volt-8-Volt-and-12-Volt-Positive-Ground.htm For less than $150 I expect to have a stable, strong maintenance-free charging system that will last longer than I own the car. I also highly recommend you install a new set of battery cables if the old ones are showing any sign of degradation. Less than $50 and one of the best things you can do for improving starter performance: https://www.batterycablesusa.com/1-0-gauge-battery-cables-0-awg.html So....for $200 you have a new robust charging system that shouldn't need any future attention and will offer better performance than the old system ever could.

I second the recommendation to install a voltmeter, that is the best way to diagnose charging problems and show the true condition of your battery. I installed one under the dash while troubleshooting the erratic generator/regulator in my P15 before getting tired of chasing problems and installing an alternator as the final solution. I had to search for awhile to find an inexpensive meter with a low enough scale to easily read 6-8v but found this one on eBay. You might also find one in the antique tractor community. Even though the alternator has proven to be rock solid I still find the meter a good way to confirm battery condition so it is still in the car.

No....never done that............... ? I would really like to fix the missing exhaust-to-intake gasket, but......the steel plate I wedged in between the manifolds is looking more and more satisfactory, especially since three of the bolts in the heat exchanger are already twisted off...... Hope you are able to put this saga behind you, pleasant weather will be arriving on the coast soon!

Given your experience with this so-called machine shop I suspect if you had taken both manifolds bolted together that guy would have figured out a way to trash both of them....... This wasn't your fault, you were victimized.......

I have a Signal Stat turn signal switch which has fused power supply. Since the brake lights are powered by the signal switch I'm thinking they are protected now.

This is sad to watch.....

This is why I often read threads that don't appear to apply to my P15. I purchased an inline fuse holder this morning for the courtesy light circuit....I really hadn't considered the consequences of a shorted wire behind the headliner. ?

So could these manifolds be salvaged if bolted together and resurfaced as a set, or has too much material been removed from the exhaust manifold already?

It was useless without the add-on mirror, couldn't find any position on the door frame that would work. After nearly pulling over into another car I decided to stick on the little Habba Fright mirror I had left from another project, am very pleased how well it works. Sometimes we get lucky.

Nope, seat is in normal position and the small wide-angle mirror works great, can see down the whole side of the car and into the adjoining lane, even clears the vent when in full air-conditioning mode. This is the second time today I've been told that something I've done to my car won't work.......tough crowd on this here forum...or maybe it just has a significant population of crotchety old men...... ?

My P15 came with a set of weathered clamp-on mirrors and I also found the passenger side mirror to be worthless for seeing around the large blind spot in the sedan. The work-around I use is sorta clunky looking but gives me warning if someone sidles up on my right rear fender:

Yep, works like a charm.

I found a great way to stabilize the erratic charging current in my P15 and enhance longterm reliability at the same time. I realize this solution isn't for everyone.....but you can see it in the photo below.

That is correct, may be a belt and suspenders approach but it is a solid way to make sure the accessories are getting a ground instead of depending on the engine ground. I used #2 cable for the chassis ground since it isn't carrying the starter current, just stuff like lights. Look carefully at the photo and you can see the chassis lead going to one of the radiator mount bolts. Don't get confused by the negative ground in my car.

Get a fourth cable for grounding your battery to the chassis, your headlights will thank you.

These are the 1/0 cables I recently purchased from BatterycablesUSA via the recommendation by @Bbdakota. These cables are high quality, built to your desired length and surprisingly flexible (1045 strands of copper!). I was amazed at how reasonable the cost, all four of my cables were only $39.73......shipped. The car cranks noticible better with these cables than with the old cables.

Try McMaster-Carr for a spring: https://www.mcmaster.com/springs

The search engine is your friend. http://p15-d24.com/topic/50767-refurbishing-steering-wheel/

I ran across a different photo of those mounts back when I was shopping for mine but moved on since they were listed for Chryslers. But without knowing the density of the rubber and how much weight is supported by the mounts I don't know if this is of much value to P15 owners. I couldn't find this company in Mr. Google's search.

Here is the shop tank with free shipping: https://thealphamoto.com/collections/motorcycle-tools/products/alphamoto-motorcycle-shop-auxiliary-gas-fuel-tank-tool

1/0.

I can highly recommend BatteryCablesUSA when you are ready for new cables----Very reasonable prices, quick service and high quality! Made a noticeable difference in how the car starts, especially hot.

I suspect that pretty much sums it up.

Here's the one I have:

Per the schematic the start button isn't hot until the ignition switch is turned on. It's wired into the same circuit as the fuel gauge. This is the way my P15 is wired, starter pushbutton is dead until ignition switch is turned on.