Sam Buchanan

It’s still available, Google shows several sources. Even though this solvent has wicked fumes the health hazards aren’t much different from many other solvents. Used properly it’s ok……abuse can damage the nervous system.

I get about 25 smiles per gallon....... ?

And make sure it fits!

Just saw this post and it reminded me of an article that was circulating in the experimental aircraft community a few years ago. Combination of a torch and brake cleaner can be catastrophic! https://www.brewracingframes.com/safety-alert-brake-cleaner--phosgene-gas.html

Yep, that is the ultimate solution for irritating reg and Gen problems.

OK, last change is usually the culprit. Make sure there are no minute leaks in the fuel line (crack, loose/faulty fitting, etc) where air could be sucked into the fuel. Check again for any obstructions in the line. If still unresolved remove the electric pump in case it is introducing air. Simplify, simplify, simplify. ?

My Scarebird order is in, hope to have it in 2-3 weeks.

That solenoid is known in aviation as a master contactor. It feeds the entire electrical system of the aircraft so everything can be disconnected from voltage source in case of an electrical fire. It uses a connection to ground to activate it. I suspect the CFM of the 6v Speedway fan is kinda weak considering it only pulls 10a @ 6vdc. Thank you for editing the title of the thread, future owners need to be able to find this thread.

Excellent how-to. However……..maybe change the title of the thread to one that might be easier to find if someone is searching for info on cooling system upgrades? ?

Good to see. I emailed him a few days ago, currently hubs for my car are available but on 2-4 week backorder.

Would appreciate your thoughts about the Scarebird kit, am really considering it for my '48 P15.

Only had my P15 for three years, it's my first really old car. I'm still discovering things that should be obvious.....but that's what makes this endeavor interesting.

There’s always eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/321153882772

My thread from earlier this month about the Wilwood dual-chamber cylinder in my '48 Plymouth: https://p15-d24.com/topic/57966-wilwood-dual-chamber-brake-master-cylinder/ I don't know if this is applicable to the Dodge setup.

Seems there was some confusion about my post...it was an attempt at being clever about stating the obvious that a three prong flasher is exactly what is needed to run a single indicator lamp.

That would never work.......waaay too practical........ ?

Maybe pop rivet your repros to the existing sill and paint the heads of the rivets black?

A very serviceable, almost original and inexpensive solution for you is to cover your original plates with rubber running board material. This is available from various eBay vendors. I didn't have good original plates, fabbed my own, but you can see the new rubber on the front door compared to an original on the rear. The new rubber was attached with contact cement. I bought 18" wide rubber and split it. Here is one vendor, there are others: https://www.ebay.com/itm/220811540033?hash=item336964b641:g:xqYAAOxyaTxRQV2t

Slap it on there and fire it up! It may work perfectly.....if not, rebuild it. Too much thinkin' going on here........paralysis by analysis......... ?

Wishing you the best of luck. ?

The original cylinder is the mount for the clutch and brake pedals which greatly complicates swapping in a new cylinder. If the cylinder was eliminated you would need a new pedal mount sorta like this: https://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/chrysler_master_assemblies.html Scarebird has a bracket that can be used as the basis for a new mount: https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=96&product_id=123 Much more complicated and $$$$$'s than using an old cylinder even though you still have to build a simple mount for the new cylinder. The old cylinder is gutted and a new pushrod fabricated using both ends of the original pushrod. It all comes together quite nicely if you have the means to do some cutting, welding, and a bit of imagination. ?

Even though the brakes on my '48 P15 are probably as effective as they were back in the day, the single-chamber master cylinder is a relic of bygone times. If pressure is lost due to a line or cylinder failure, the car effectively is left without brakes...probably at a very bad time. The remedy was mandated by the guvmint in the late '60's when they required all new cars to have a dual-chamber master cylinder. If pressure is lost on either a front or rear brake, the split master cylinder would maintain some degree of pressure for the brakes on the other end of the car. Not an ideal situation, but much better than being totally brakeless. Two years ago I fabricated a mount so the body of an original master cylinder could be retained for the pedal mounts and a modern cylinder could be mounted aft and actuated with a long pushrod extending through the old cylinder. My mount worked very nicely but the "Corvette" cylinder I used didn't work, probably due to a combination of insufficient bore and/or stroke. So I've been driving and enjoying the car with an original-style master cylinder even though the desire to upgrade remained. In the process of researching a disc brake upgrade, I found a reference on the Scarebird site to a Wilwood dual chamber cylinder. Wilwood is a highly-regarded manufacturer of brake components for the racing and custom communities. I used their components on a kit car several years ago. The cylinder is 1" bore, model #260-7563 and comes with remote reservoirs. It's available from Jeg's, Summit, etc but I found the best price on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G37IBS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details My old bracket and pushrod were dusted off and the Wilwood cylinder mounted and plumbed. This unit has residual valves built-in for drum brakes but they can be easily removed for a disc installation, no need for inline residuals. I still need to clean up the installation a bit but you get the idea from the photos. The hole in the floor above the cylinder was cut when I originally tried the Corvette cylinder so the reservoir could be accessed. But it isn't necessary for the Wilwood cylinder because the remotes are now mounted on the firewall for very easy access. Nope....doesn't look period correct, but neither does the alternator, spin-on oil filter and inertia switch for the electric fuel pump. But I like 'em. ? The Wilwood has bleeders on the cylinder itself so "bench bleeding" is easily accomplished after it is installed and connected to the car's brake lines. I had a decent pedal immediately after bleeding the cylinder and it should be even better after I get around to bleeding the entire system again. Pedal/brake response seems better than the original cylinder, all-in-all an excellent upgrade. A thread from a few years ago detailed using this cylinder with the Scarebird system so I'm probably looking at discs in the near future. I really enjoy the 1940's ambience of this car but some additional brake margin is a good thing to have in reserve in our cell phone-addicted traffic.

Beautiful car, just like the one I learned to drive in only ours was two-tone green without the extra trim. Had the V8 with over-drive, 143K on the odometer when we sold it. Great memories!

https://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/dodge_plymouth_discbrake_conversions.html

Correct. Take a brake line with you and get a ferrule that fits the flare on the line.