Sam Buchanan

Dittos on Plymouthy's comments. Acrylic enamel may not have all the components of the modern finishes but I don't know why you would want to use this obsolete process when the modern cross-linked finishes are far superior (but much more $$$$'s). Most likely the enamel doesn't meet CA's strict VOC standards and that's why it's hard to source. Paint is what people use to judge the quality of your restoration......be diligent in selecting who and with what it will be finished.

Running 50/50 antifreeze raises the boiling point to 226*F @ atmospheric pressure (open vent).

Lots of templates available for download. Just print and glue to a stiff piece of cardboard or thin plywood. http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/printable-degree-wheel.974/

Be prepared to pay!! ?

I was responding to the request for info about charging a cell phone at 5.5vdc.

Something like this would work great if you want to build a charger: $17 on Amazon, many different versions available but this one has input range of 5.5v-30 vdc, output selectable from 0.5-30 vdc. Will supply up to 4a.

The above photo IS NOT of the original poster's car. That photo is my P15 and it works perfectly.

The pushrod I use doesn’t flex. The potential flex I mentioned was in regard to the mount but that can be eliminated with good design.

Excellent!

I welded a nut on one end of a piece of 4130 (chrome-moly) steel tubing, a bolt on the other end, and then threaded on the original rod ends. This keeps the original ends intact in case they are ever needed again in a stock application and allows both ends to be adjusted as needed. Edit; Just thought of something else----I had to turn down the master cylinder end of the stock fitting a little on the belt sander to get it to fit properly in the Wilwood piston. There are other ways this mule could be skinned. Instead of the bolt I used, a longer, shanked bolt could be welded on a slightly longer tube than I used and the threads cut off. This loses adjustability on one end but would work fine with some careful measuring.

Ok, #2 sounds much better.

Is that a typo or are your ground cables actually 12 gauge?

Your mount design looks good, lack of welding won't be a problem, it'll just make it easier for others to adapt the Wilwood cylinder. Be sure to post your drawing once you have everything finalized. The remote reservoirs are great! The Wilwood also makes it much easier to bleed due to bleeders on the cylinder itself and having each end of the car isolated.

Probably 1/8" but just screw a 1/8" fitting into it to confirm.

Be sure your finished mount doesn't have any flex, that could lead to metal fatigue and also reduces the throw of the pushrod. You can see the strap I added to my mount to eliminate the possibility of flex.

The new radiator and the starter must not be compatible........

Uh oh......looks like it's time for some wiring replacement. Yank out all the flakey stuff and start over.

You guys are getting the polarity crossed up! There is no way to do any welding when a jumper battery is hooked up right. Forget the positive ground deal. Just hook the negative post of the 6v jumper battery to the negative post of your car's battery, and positive to positive. No fireworks will occur.

Are you jumping a 12v battery to a 6v? Or have the + and - reversed? Just connecting jumper cables shouldn't create fireworks.

I'm trying to visualize exactly what you are describing. Jump leads from what to what??

Over share. ?

Excellent info......thanks!

My '48 P15 is losing tranny fluid in the area of the gearshift housing. It appears any loss would be through the o-rings on the selector shafts and past the housing gasket. At one time I found a source for the gasket and o-rings but can't find that anymore. Anyone have info about resealing the housing and shafts and where these o-rings and gasket can be found? They may be generic--in that case I should be able to source them and can make a housing gasket if necessary (Permatex Ultra-Black?). I use Redline MTF in the tranny and it being synthetic may be aggravating the leakage, but I LOVE how the transmission shifts with that lubricant.

Where is the battery ground cable attached to the engine? Is it on the head? If so you could verify the ground connection hasn't been compromised in the process of reinstalling the head.

Good practice is to filter the gas before it goes into the pump. IN on the filter connects to the fuel line from the tank, OUT (1/8" NPT) goes to IN on the pump (1/8" NPT), that's where you need the 1/8" NPT nipple.