Sam Buchanan

Good practice is to filter the gas before it goes into the pump. IN on the filter connects to the fuel line from the tank, OUT (1/8" NPT) goes to IN on the pump (1/8" NPT), that's where you need the 1/8" NPT nipple.

You just need a 1/8" NPT male nipple. Use it to connect the filter to the upstream (fuel tank) side of the pump, and put the fitting you have for the upstream side of the pump on the filter so you can connect the fuel line coming from the tank. The pump and filter become one unit. Done. Or am I missing something here..... Or this if you want a little space between filter and pump....whatever works best for your installation. Don't overthink this....we're talkin' plumbing 101..... ? But I like the shorter nipple better so the mass of the filter isn't hanging on the end of a long nipple.

Plymouthy's favorite solution is to remove all the hubcaps and paint the wheels red. ??

Final update: Bled the brakes again, adjusted the rear brakes, and all is well. Good pedal on first pump and the discs work nicely. Not as powerful as a modern car due to no boost.....but good. The Wilwood 1" dual-chamber master cylinder is a good upgrade and very compatible with our brakes. Highly recommended.....love the remote reservoirs!

The threads on the fuel pumps are most likely 1/8" NPT. This is not the OD of the threads so don't be confused by this. If not 1/8", they will be 1/4". You need a good old-school auto parts house that has bins of brass fittings they can pick through....the computer elves at the chain stores won't have a clue what you want. This what you want: https://www.amazon.com/Inline-Tube-Degree-Thread-Inverted/dp/B06ZYHZBDP/ref=sr_1_2?crid=QPDAC46G7I8B&keywords=1%2F8"+npt+to+brake+line+elbow&qid=1655603468&sprefix=1%2F8+npt+to+brake+line+elbow%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-2

The fuel pump is probably NPT threads. You need an elbow with male NPT threads and female threads and inverse flair for the brake line.

List of serial numbers from the Resources section of our Forum: https://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/reference/p15_reference.html/ 1947 Special Deluxe built in Los Angeles.

I haven't for a while but I have that on my list for this week along with a valve adjustment. The difference in the first and second pump is very slight, still have a good pedal on first pump. I'll do another bleed in a few weeks after everything has settled in. Not concerned about rotor runout, the hub bearing adjustment is good.

To close the loop on this installation.....bled the brakes again and think it's probably as good as it'll get. The brakes work well but a second pump of the pedal brings it up a little higher than the first pump. This leads me to wonder if the master cylinder is a little under size or maybe a stronger residual valve might help. The Wilwood is available with a larger bore, if doing this again I would consider upsizing a bit. But without side-by-side comparison I can't make a definitive judgment. Overall, well pleased with the conversion....think I've done about all I can do to upgrade the P15 brakes.

Been driving the P15 around town to bed in the pads even though it still needs a final bleed. I haven't seen the need to remove the residual valve in the Wilwood dual-chamber master cylinder, the calipers release just fine. Haven't had any wheel/tire interference issues, the Scarebird installation seems to be trouble-free. I don't know if the front track changed any, didn't take any measurements pre-installation. Happy camper. ?

Mark told me their vendor was having trouble get raw stock for the spindles but I wasn't expecting them to discontinue them. Guess I snuck in under the wire on this one. The Wilwood cylinder has 10lb residual valves installed but so far I haven't seen the need to remove the one for the Scarebird front discs, it releases the rotor just fine.

That’s the tank I have in my P15, fits nicely.

Sorry, no drawing, it was designed on the fly with the TLAR engineering protocol (That Looks About Right). ? But Scarebird has a bracket you should be able to adapt: https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=96&product_id=123

The Caddie brake hoses arrived this morning so one side is finished. I used 15" hoses, the only mod needed was to slightly enlarge the hole in the frame bracket so the hose fitting would insert fully into the bracket. Then the big moment........would there be any interference between the caliper and wheel?? NONE! When I installed the Wilwood dual-chamber master cylinder I mounted the remote reservoirs high on the firewall. I was able to open the caliper bleeder and the caliper basically bled itself as gravity did its thing. After the bubbles disappeared, I had a decent pedal. All four corners will get another bleed after everything is finished. One more side to finish then the test drive....more to come.

I like that, may pick up a couple of those kits. However, so far I'm ok with the preload setting with the stock nut, but the Dorman kit definitely offers more adjustability. Thanks for the tip!

The bearings and seals were installed in the hubs and the assembly secured to the spindle with the stock washer and nut. I had to grind a few thousandths off the back of the nut to get clearance for the cotter pin which was included in the kit. I've read reports of the kit dust cap not staying in place but the stock cap is too small....we'll see what happens. The rotor is a precise fit on the hub and I temporarily secured it with a couple of 1/2"-20 lug nuts from a local parts store. The threads on both hubs are right-hand. The calipers I purchased came with bolts and seals and everything lined up perfectly on the adapter plates. I'm waiting on hoses to arrive over-night so I can complete the installation. Parts List: Rotors; 1991-92 Lincoln Mark VII rear Calipers; 1990 Chevy Celebrity Pads; 1990 Chevy Celebrity Hoses; 1979 Cadillac Seville front *Rotors, calipers and pads purchased from Rock Auto. More to come....interested to see if everything plays nice with the stock 15" wheels.

Use Google for your searches, works much better: site:p15-d24.com color change speedometer This search returned several threads.

One of the items at the top of my punch list when the P15 was purchased was the conversion to a dual-chamber master cylinder and front disc brakes. For various reasons I elected to rebuild the stock brakes when I returned the car to service, but the time has come to make the jump to discs. Traffic is getting increasingly hectic in our rapidly growing area and I think the $$$$'s will be well-spent for peace of mind and added safety. Based on positive reviews on this forum I elected to go with the Scarebird conversion. This thread will offer details of the upgrade so future readers will have a resource for consideration. My kit includes aluminum hubs but I see this option is no longer listed on the Scarebird website. In its place is a more bare-bones conversion that requires modification of the stock spindles. But here is what was included in my kit--documentation is included and the components appear to be of high quality. The first step is to remove the stock drums and backing plates with all the original components. The photo below shows why the front brakes have not had optimum stopping power because half of each shoe is barely touching the drum. This is most likely due to improper major shoe adjustment. But one reason I want to move away from the drum brakes is because of the finicky adjustment process which sometimes requires chants and the sprinkling of chicken blood around the shop...... No longer needed: Here is the spindle with all the stock brake components removed along with decades of caked on grease and road debris. This will be a great opportunity to make sure all the grease zerks are functional. Here is the kit caliper bracket bolted to the stock spindle, the fit is perfect. More to come.

Have it boiled and pressure tested, if it passes, have them apply a fresh coat of paint........and then install it.

Based on my experience with aircraft pressure cowls it appears the baffle seal is for promoting air flow through the radiator instead of over it. You could get some rubber sheet material from McMaster-Carr if you want to replace the seal. I removed the plate and mounts from my P15 radiator and it cools just fine.

It’s still available, Google shows several sources. Even though this solvent has wicked fumes the health hazards aren’t much different from many other solvents. Used properly it’s ok……abuse can damage the nervous system.

I get about 25 smiles per gallon....... ?

And make sure it fits!

Just saw this post and it reminded me of an article that was circulating in the experimental aircraft community a few years ago. Combination of a torch and brake cleaner can be catastrophic! https://www.brewracingframes.com/safety-alert-brake-cleaner--phosgene-gas.html

Yep, that is the ultimate solution for irritating reg and Gen problems.