Sam Buchanan

My thread with photos about how to convert the P15 filter to paper: https://p15-d24.com/topic/56200-converting-air-filter-from-oil-to-paper/

I'm using a Group 1 battery so there is excess battery tray next to the alternator. A notch was cut out of the tray, a 1" shorter belt was installed and the tray bracket was left intact. I fabricated my bracket, it doesn't raise the alternator as much as yours. I also fabbed an extension for the original adjuster and bolted it to the existing adjuster. Be sure you get the pulleys aligned and don't forget the bolt that attaches the bracket to the water pump penetrates the water jacket and must be sealed! This is one of those deals where you just do whatever you need to do to make it work.

An angle grinder with a cut-off wheel is your friend.

It is helpful to just address one issue at a time. When you get the tank replace EVERYTHING in the fuel system up to the carb. That eliminates one problem and may clear up other problems. It is impossible to troubleshoot drivability problems if the engine isn't getting proper fuel flow.

This is also just a guess (the infrared thermometer could settle this) but I suspect the radiator neck would be cooler because the engine block has adsorbed a lot of heat and shed it to the atmosphere. But I might be wrong.

I inserted a 60a fuse between the alternator and ammeter (where the regulator used to be) so the fat wire going to the alternator, and the alternator itself would be protected from a dead short to ground. I removed the old regulator and instead of running an alternator wire directly to the ammeter the output side of the fuse is connected to the wire going to the ammeter where it enters the harness. The fuse may be overkill but if the alternator shorts out the fuse will prevent the big alternator wire from glowing red hot or melting the wire under the dash at the ammeter! I didn't run the numbers but I think the fuse would blow with a dead short even though it is oversized for the harness wiring. You will really, really like your alternator.....install and forget.

The fuel pump has check valves (that's how it pumps fuel), not sure fuel could flow backwards through the pump unless the pump is defective, and sounds like it may be.

What is the purpose of the check valve?

Just to make it more “conventional”. ?

Once you get fed up messing with the generator and regulator and start shopping for an alternator please be advised that the ones from the link I posted include shipping in the posted price. This makes these alternators very competitive with other vendors.

I don't know if the photo is of the one you have or just a stock photo, but the linkage shown could be refurbished to where it looked like a new one.

It was a joke................

I tried to nickel and dime my P15 fuel system until I just ripped it all out and started fresh. I could force enough air back through the pickup to make bubbles but it was too constricted for the mechanical pump to maintain prime. A 74 year old fuel tank is going to be a problem. ? In regard to your inquiry about quality of new pumps, the new replacement I got from Rock Auto leaked, never could get it to stop. I returned it and then decided I could do better than that. That's when the entire old system bow to stern came out, full-time electric pump now.

Put the original one back in, it's working fine.

Leak is fixed...so far. Still have a small drip out or off the flywheel belly pan, but the flywheel was clean when I removed it and the rear seal looked dry. The little rubber seals on the bearing cap may be passing some oil.

I finally solved my fuel issues with a new tank, new sender, all new lines, filter and electric fuel pump. The system is now as reliable as a new car. I don't think there is any way to access the fuel pickup/filter in the old tank. Chunk it. My old tank had some sort of alien life form living in it......... ?

I've already returned the bearing to Amazon but that looks like what I received and it is considerably larger (and the wrong shape) than the one that fits the sleeve on my transmission. Maybe it's the right one for fluid drive or something.

What's interesting is the box is marked 1505 which is what I ordered, but it wasn't close to being the correct fit. Maybe what I got was mispackaged?

Good idea. In case this is useful to anyone, here is how this release bearing is marked: Green USA CB-1054

It's totally smooth and quiet when rotating by hand. Hoping I'm a little smarter today as well....... ?

Grrrrrrrrrrrrr......been waiting on new release bearing so the transmission can be installed. Rock Auto listed National 1505 for my car and I was able to find the same item on Amazon with no shipping fee. It arrived today and not only is it the wrong bearing it is seized due to a manufacturing defect. This is a Federal Mogul product, thought I was buying good stuff. Grrrrrrrrrrr............ Thinking I'll put the original bearing back in since it was working well, just had a slight murmur. It is a branded bearing, probably good quality.

Mr. Google says Duracell lead acid batteries are manufactuered by East Penn Manufacturing. https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/east-penn-releases-new-duracell-automotive-batteries/#:~:text=For more information contact East,for more than 40 years Company info: https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/ Berks county, PA https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/about/facilities/

https://www.ebay.com/str/howardent

I hope the leak has been resolved, if so this will be the least expensive part I've installed on the P15. ? Turns out a brand new Lincoln penny is a great fit in the countershaft recess. I buttered the recess with JB Weld, inserted the penny and sealed the outside. We'll know after the new release bearing arrives and the trans in installed if this solves the leak but I think it will. If the countershaft ever needs to be removed a hole can be drilled in the penny so a drift can be inserted to drive out the shaft.

A tire calculator that includes gear ratios (listed in the service manual) can be used to derive shift speeds at a particular rpm. Here is one I like: https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator