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Sam Buchanan

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Everything posted by Sam Buchanan

  1. Sounds good. I too have a resurfaced flywheel, new pressure plate and disc.....but clutch chatter. ?
  2. A simple trouble light connected to the distributor is all that is needed to set initial timing. On the old VW's we would just listen for the points to arc as the crank was rotated by hand. In regards to the "computerised nightmares" the computer sets the timing....just plug everything in and start the engine.
  3. Looks like defective springs. All tempering/steel is not the same.
  4. Something you must have if you own an old Mopar: https://www.amazon.com/Plymouth-Service-Manual-1946-1951-Models/dp/B002JY9KVK/ref=sr_1_1?crid=UKROJD7QZURC&keywords=1948+plymouth+manual&qid=1671419689&sprefix=1948+plymouth+manual%2Caps%2C102&sr=8-1
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  6. You might find this thread interesting: https://p15-d24.com/topic/51306-new-dash-light-bulbs-bright/ Here is how my P15 gauges look with the microscope bulbs:
  7. I used windshield adhesive from the local auto parts store.
  8. Oh yeah…….your local 24 year-old body shop tech will be very familiar with a 1948 Desoto……… ? I replaced the glass in the driver door of my P15, this is not a job to fear.
  9. https://www.amazon.com/1946-1954-Plymouth-Repair-Manual-Reprint/dp/B00435KT6S/ref=sr_1_4?crid=TD78W50NHFY4&keywords=1949+plymouth+service+manual&qid=1670617185&sprefix=1949+plymouth+service+manual%2Caps%2C94&sr=8-4
  10. For whatever it is worth.....direct quote from the service manual: "If the pressure plate is scored or warped, it should be replaced." That is a very ugly pressure plate......
  11. I need to check my policy but quite sure it doesn't include 200 miles of towing like my AAA membership.
  12. A fuse for the headlight switch and a spare taillight/brake bulb in case the local auto parts store can't find a 6v bulb. Oh...the most important item......a AAA card with towing options., that's your "get out of jail free" card! Enjoy your trip!
  13. Yes. I didn't realize the high tension wire was a part of this discussion, I thought it was a given that it went from the coil to the distributor. Also, "to ground the points" is a misnomer since the points are grounded via the mechanical attachment of the distributor to the engine block. When the points close, they connect the coil to ground. When they open an impulse is released from the coil through the high tension cable to the distributor cap and to the plugs via the rotor. Yes, a gross simplification, but maybe this is helpful.....
  14. There should only be one wire connecting the distributor to the coil. The distributor is grounded via the engine block, just connect battery + to engine ground and you are good to go. Battery neg to coil neg, battery + to engine ground, coil + to distributor. That's it.
  15. Connect the positive terminal of the battery to engine ground.
  16. Sawzall (or similar reciprocating saw) with a metal-cutting blade? If you can get the blade on the dowels they will be history in a few seconds.
  17. If I was young enough I probably would be messing with some sort of Japanese abomination instead of an old Mopar....... ?
  18. I would have used the "clutch pedal" technique but don't have a helper and couldn't figure out a way to configure my limbs to where two hands were working the tranny while a foot was mashing the pedal......maybe I'm not creative (or flexible) enough! ?
  19. I couldn’t find the alignment tool anywhere locally, seems to be a legacy spline. I left the pressure plate bolts loose enough to use the eyecrometer to get the disc aligned as close as I could. With the disc “floating” in the slack pressure plate I slid the tranny into place on the guide pins. Some wigglin’ and jigglin’ and it eventually slid home. The pressure plate bolts were then torqued.
  20. I run AdBlock on my PC and don't see any ads in the forum. This is an extension in the Chrome browser. You can also install Ghostery which kills many of the trackers that advertisers use to target ads.
  21. Here are two threads on the mounts you might find interesting, the first one is a thread I started. https://p15-d24.com/topic/50844-engine-mounts-p15-caution/ And the second one: This is a case where aftermarket parts may not be exact replacements.....I suspect you have some experience with this.....
  22. Check the front motor mount to see if it looks correct, if not the tranny may be tilted up. That is quite the project!
  23. Then I have to wonder if the gear selector shaft is installed correctly in the gearshift housing, I just can't see how the linkage would work with the arm oriented the way it is in your photo. From what I can see in your photo the trans mounts look correct if they are resting on the frame crossmember. The photo I attached previously shows the mounts I installed if you look closely. I don't envy you assembling this car that was taken apart by someone else.....I have a hard enough time putting mine back together after I have slept a night or two! ?
  24. Once you determine the rear end ratio you can calculate rpm with a calculator like this one: https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator
  25. Here is the proper orientation of the shift arms on my '48 when in neutral (wish mine was as clean as yours!): You must get a manual! https://www.amazon.com/1946-1954-Plymouth-Repair-Manual-Reprint/dp/B00435KT6S/ref=sr_1_4?crid=MA5FQLPNKZ4Q&keywords=manual+1948+plymouth&qid=1669730697&sprefix=manual+1948+plymoth%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-4
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