Sam Buchanan

Look for a lever under the dash that operates the cowl vent. Here it is in my '48 Plymouth. With all the extra stuff that has been added to the bottom of your dash this lever may be missing or modified.

If everything is set up correctly the engine will want to run.....no prompting needed.

Those are the springs I put on my '48 P15 sedan even though they don't look like the ones I removed.

Andy Bernbaum: https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts/g_service_brakes/brake-return-springs-3/ https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts/g_service_brakes/brake-return-springs-4/

I've always the same oil that is going in the crankcase.

If you do end up needing a battery, you might consider a wet battery instead of the Optima, wet lead acid batteries are more tolerant of abuse. You can find a 6v wet battery at a store that caters to the farm community.

Disconnect the fuel line at the carb and see if the pump is forcing fuel out the line while cranking the engine.

Keep in mind the current draw for an efficient electric fan on 6v will be HUGE. That is why the 6v fans I've seen don't push much air.

Maybe it'll come with a paper gasket. ?

It's not complicated......unless you create a thread that is two pages long for a job that takes thirty minutes on a slow day. Ahhhh......the joy of killing time on the internet! ?

Waaay too much thinking going on here. The correct gasket is paper...why would you use cork?? The cork will extrude as the bolts are torqued properly and will further extrude with time. Cork is used when fasteners are used with low torque values (valve covers, oil pans, etc). Clean both surfaces Apply very light coat of sealer to one side (either) if needed to hold paper gasket in place during installation Apply sealer to bolt threads Torque Done.

That part number is still listed on the NAPA website.

Get gasket material at your local auto parts store and make gaskets.

I ordered a 1505 but it didn't fit the sleeve on my car, had to return it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UEFMSI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank you for the link. Yes, that is interesting and reinforces my hunch that I'm dealing with a wobble in the flywheel which is most likely a crank flange that isn't running true or a flywheel with a manufacturing defect. The old clutch had some chatter, that is what I wanted to eliminate with the new one, but the chatter persists. It does seem to be improving some but the new clutch in my TR6 was smooth from hour one. But.....shimming the flywheel means the tranny, oil pan and rear main cap have to come off again.....gonna have to decide if a little chatter is tolerable.....but it irks me that after spending the $$$$'s and hours on the new installation it still isn't right. Also interesting that his experience with the new release bearing was identical to mine......the thing was junk, noisy and slinging grease. I replaced the no-name new bearing with the old one which carried a USA trademark. One other possibility is the arms on the pressure plate not being adjusted for identical throw/pressure. The junk release bearing has me wondering if the aftermarket pressure plate may leave something to be desired. Replacement parts for our cars is really problematic these days.

P10 is US 1940 Plymouth but there may be something different with the Canadian cars.

Sounds good. I too have a resurfaced flywheel, new pressure plate and disc.....but clutch chatter. ?

A simple trouble light connected to the distributor is all that is needed to set initial timing. On the old VW's we would just listen for the points to arc as the crank was rotated by hand. In regards to the "computerised nightmares" the computer sets the timing....just plug everything in and start the engine.

Looks like defective springs. All tempering/steel is not the same.

Something you must have if you own an old Mopar: https://www.amazon.com/Plymouth-Service-Manual-1946-1951-Models/dp/B002JY9KVK/ref=sr_1_1?crid=UKROJD7QZURC&keywords=1948+plymouth+manual&qid=1671419689&sprefix=1948+plymouth+manual%2Caps%2C102&sr=8-1

text deleted

You might find this thread interesting: https://p15-d24.com/topic/51306-new-dash-light-bulbs-bright/ Here is how my P15 gauges look with the microscope bulbs:

I used windshield adhesive from the local auto parts store.

Oh yeah…….your local 24 year-old body shop tech will be very familiar with a 1948 Desoto……… ? I replaced the glass in the driver door of my P15, this is not a job to fear.