Sam Buchanan

Good reason to have a fuel shut-off valve on our small engines.......

McMaster Carr likely has the brass nuts but the dished stud washers and nuts are specialty items. The only place I've seen them is as part of a $$kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/323375220141?hash=item4b4aaa45ad%3Ag%3A0dQAAOSwpbVbYGzG&fits=Submodel%3ABase|Year%3A1948|Trim%3ABase|Model%3AP15+Special+Deluxe|Make%3APlymouth|Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A--|Trim%3ABase|Engine%3A-- Some of mine were missing so am running conventional nuts and washers in their place, hope there aren't long-term problems.

Oh boy....that hurt a bunch of us! Brrrrrrrrrrrr.......

The nuts are brass so they won't corrode and seize on the studs.

Maybe the alternator is having to work hard because the battery has lost a lot of its capacity?? I've never noticed any noise from the alternator on my P15, the battery stays fully charged all the time.

I have juggled Rock Auto orders so all the parts ship from the same warehouse. I even had one order where it was cheaper to split my parts into two orders so multiple warehouses wouldn't be used for the same order. Shipping has gone up a tremendous amount the past three years, it's the world we live in now.....guess we need to get used to it....the olden days ain't coming back.

Wow....that would take some serious engineering and be much more complex than using a dual-chamber Wilwood or similar. I do have experience with two Wilwood masters in combination, that is what I installed on my Stalker kit car. They required a walking beam balance bar to achieve proper front/rear bias. But I have no interest in trying something like that under the P15 floor with the combination cylinder/pedal mounts!

That appears to be a fuse on the relay below the regulator. Is that a starter relay? I'm not familiar with the P6 wiring.

Yes.....working in the dark will be a great way for me to get the timing light into the fan........... ? I tried using my old light on 6v but the flash was too dim to be useful so out came the old 12v charger, it works fine with the light.

That's what I did last time I used my timing light on the 6v P15--my old 12v shop battery finally died.

I think it would be safe to assume the lubrication suggestions in the manual are totally obsolete, so much has changed in the past 70 years that we now should use modern oils and service intervals. From a practical standpoint it probably doesn't matter which modern oils we use, any of them will be far superior to what was available in 1948 for these extremely simple engines.

I would break it in with the same oil intended for use long term. Driving habits during break in (no over-heating, etc) are more important than which oil is used. The manual was written when oils were inferior to what we have today.

?

This note was down in the description: PLEASE NOTE:: Fits Mustang II IFS Converted Front Ends ONLY***

I certainly hope I didn't offend anyone with my post, as mentioned I thought long and hard about saying anything. But hopefully I offered one more option on how to solve a problem.......stop and THINK! Most of the issues we face with these old cars have simple solutions because the cars are simple. I suspect that back in the day (decades before the internet!) they were often repaired in the back of gas stations by guys with sub-high school educations who were able to look at a problem, study it, try something, maybe study it some more, then analytically reach a solution....with no keyboard in sight! ? This forum is a fantastic resource, it has helped me innumerable times as I brought the P15 back to road service. Thank you again for all the assistance rendered!

Excellent post, Keith. I've struggled with biting my tongue during this DeSoto saga because I've always been one who deep-dives into research on whatever project I'm undertaking. Much time during my projects has been spent in the "thinking chair" as various options are considered for solving or answering the situation at hand. I consider this far more productive use of time than running to the computer every time some question arises and creating a multi-page thread only to find out I could have solved the question on my own with some productive pondering. But.....maybe the social connections are part of the journey for some folks....and maybe that's ok. But some of us self-starters get frustrated watching that process. ? The thinking chair in action as a one-off fuel tank mount for a prototype installation is thunk thru.

There has to be a work-around for this fitting. Dies are available in 3/8-27 and a machinist could probably replicate this part. https://www.amazon.com/8-27-Set，-British-Right-Taper/dp/B072N2K7KT What I can't tell from the drawing is if there is a separate sleeve and if the tube has a swage on the end of it. I assume this is some sort of compression fitting. If I was faced with this I might consider a 3/8-27 bolt (they are available) with an AN fitting brazed or tapped into it. A sealing washer could be put under the head. This would allow a flex hose with AN fitting to be run to the engine block which would also have an AN fitting in the 1/8" NPT hole. I used a 48" AN-3 braided brake hose to plumb an oil pressure gauge in one of my aircraft because I didn't trust the little plastic tubing that commonly comes with a gauge.

I don't know how the kick panels were originally attached but the carpet panels in my P15 that were installed in the '80's are secured with drywall screws tapped into the substructure. I've had the panels off a few times and the screws work just fine. The heads of the screws bury into the carpet and aren't readily visible.

The Facet brand pumps (as opposed to cheap knockoffs) are designed for years of continuous use. They are the only pump for some British cars (ok....maybe that isn't a ringing endorsement ? ) But my experience with them has been good. They are a little noisy but some vibration isolation helps. The Carter pump in the Plymouth is the only pump, the mechanical pump is now in the extra parts box. The filter is between the tank and pump to prevent trash from fouling the pump. The pump is wired through an inertia switch on the firewall. This is a Ford part that is readily available. https://www.amazon.com/Ford-5L2Z-9341-5L2z9341a-Inertia-Safety/dp/B000NTI03C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=26DA9E3ADD5HJ&keywords=inertia+switch&qid=1674534925&sprefix=inertia+switch%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-3

The ECI disc kit for your truck: EC-757CK - Complete Kit $ 825.00 I don't know what kind of pedals your truck has but here are some Chrysler master cylinder conversion kits: https://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/chrysler-master-cylinder-assemblies

True. What I intended to state is that the AB kit appears to consist of components sourced from ECI.

Maybe use the German method of torqueing? "Guttintigtt" ?

I had a 12v Carter rotary pump on the kit car and presently run the 6v version of this pump on the P15. Both pumps have been flawless for the carbed engines with no regulator needed. My RV-6 airplane has a Facet diaphragm boost pump that has been in service for 23 years. I also had the same pump on a Chevy S-10 pickup after an engine swap. I think the Carter or Facet would work fine for you. Below is the Carter in the Plymouth mounted just forward of the fuel tank.

If the ignition is in good enough condition to run the engine smoothly I doubt it would contribute to hard starting. I suspect you may not have yet found the sweet spot for choke and throttle to start the engine easily.

I use the existing taillights as turn signals. They are obvious enough for anyone who is paying attention. Nothing will get the attention of a distracted driver.....