Sam Buchanan

Here is the tool I made and posted in the forum 3+ years ago: And the $95 version that was "invented" a year or so later: I should have painted mine and made it purty........just sayin'. ? But I really like Dansk's jack-knife version the best!

Am I safe to assume the new clutch set I received from AB is compatible with the old set from my P15? Both discs are the same diameter. Also, what is the best way to remove the old pilot bearing and install the new one without the factory tool? P.S. Parts arrived in Large Flat Rate box, $19.95 commercial rate. I was charged $54 for shipping.........grrrrrrrrrr...........

The engine was rebuilt in 1987 and when I removed the pan a couple of years ago it appeared detergent oil had been used since overhaul, the inside of the engine is sparkling clean. I wiped out a thin film of residue in the very bottom of the pan. Clean living I guess. ? Where the tranny has been leaking is another matter.....

About an hour later the pan and rear cap is pulled and the flywheel is at the machine shop.....glad I decided to do it right. With the cap removed, driving out the bolts and lowering the flywheel was a non-event. The rear seal is dry, I don't think I want to risk messing with it. Has anyone used Permatex Ultra Black for the oil pan instead of a gasket?

I sure do like the fuel pump on my P15.

Thank you for the comments, I found them to be very applicable to my P15 218. In spite of driving the flywheel bolts as far forward as they would go until they hit the rear seal retainer, the flywheel would not come out. It was THIS close, just needed another 1/16" or so. If the Mopar engineers had given us another 1/8" in the bellhousing it would work. I considered cutting an opening into the top of the bellhousing for some relief but since this is what keeps the engine from falling onto the road I decided not to get out the grinder. It looks like the oil pan and rear crank cap would need to be removed so the flywheel bolts could be sequentially driven all the way out, the service manual states this is necessary for some models. I haven't yet decided if I want to add to the work order or just freshen up the flywheel with some hand sanding. The flywheel isn't scored, but you can tell the clutch disc has worn into it a few thou. I suspect this is the original clutch (48K miles). Thank you for the info on the bolt grommets. After thinking about it for awhile----Aw shoot...I'm this far into it might as well pull the pan and rear cap.......sure would hate myself if I installed a new clutch and it shuttered a little.

The transmission sealing I applied a couple years ago has failed so the tranny has been pulled for another go at it. I decided to replace the clutch while everything was apart--it was a good decision because the disc was almost worn down to the rivets. The flywheel needs to be refaced to complete the clutch job. I've removed the flywheel nuts but it jams against the bell housing when I attempt to extract it. The shop manual says the oil pan must be removed in order to remove the flywheel. My question: Can the flywheel be extracted with the bell housing in place? Do the flywheel studs need to be driven back toward the crank flange in order for the flywheel to come free? I don't mind pulling the oil pan if needed, I have gaskets on the way and I can take a look at the rear seal which appears to be pretty dry. Thanks in advance for advice from those who have done this job. Oh...one more question....is there a source for the rubber grommets for the bearing retainer cover bolts on the tranny? Thanks!

Update: Aluminum hubs are still available for the budget kit as an upgrade: https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=64&product_id=282 $319.58

Update: Hubs are still available as an add-on for the economy kit: https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=64&product_id=282 $319.58

I must have gotten one of if not the last of the full kits for my P15: https://p15-d24.com/topic/58096-scarebird-disc-brake-conversion-p15/#comment-625750 Yes, it is nice to be able to keep the original parts intact even though I have no intention of reverting back to the drums. If a machine shop is hired to drill and install the studs and machine the diameter of the hubs, and new bearings and seals are purchased the economy kit may end up costing more than the 'full' kit.

Yes, these are press-in studs.

As a wise man once said, “It’s not the arrow, son, it’s the Indian.” Good equipment won’t overcome mediocre technique, and good technique will work well with a wide range of equipment. ?

Oil diluted by gasoline? If the engine has been run on that combination.........

Excellent point that I neglected to make. Any impact or stress on the PVC (tripping over a hose connected to a PVC elbow) can precipitate total failure with extremely unfortunate results. Here is my present setup--three connections at tank pressure and one regulated connection for paint gun, rivet gun, etc. A 25' hose will reach any part of my shop. https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools-compressors/air-compressor-accessories/fittings-valves-couplers/couplers.html

Marc, the concerns with using PVC for air is the failure mode.....hundreds of razor-sharp pieces of PVC being projected at horrendous speed. Also due to this being compressed air, it is a relatively long-term event as the pressure slowly bleeds down and can literally unzip the compromised pipe. I had PVC air lines in my shop for awhile but after thinking about it I took them out. I now have a multi-outlet manifold at the compressor and run conventional air hoses to where ever they are needed. Safest hard line material is copper or iron.

Hit the Easy Button.....try 3/8", if that doesn't work, only then upgrade to 1/2". 3/8" is the only size I've ever used.

Well....if it's on YouTube it must be fact! ? What does the manufacturer of your gun recommend?

Russ, you might get more responses on the truck side of this site: https://p15-d24.com/forum/6-mopar-flathead-truck-forum/

Clever solution, looks good.

That would work but might require more work in regard to hoses. Ready-made air hoses are pretty easy to hook up. Yes...make sure you attach to the exhaust on your shop-vac! ??

I used my 10 gal compressor (Home Depot) for the hood, a pancake compressor would work fine, not much volume needed. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-gallon-13-hp-110-psi-oil-free-pancake-air-compressor-57567.html $69

10-4, carry on. ?

Sniper, you just won today's prize for the most irrelevant post.....congratulations! Sorry you missed the humor in my post.

That stem sticking out the end of the caliper ruler is a depth gauge...flip the calipers over, rest the end of the ruler on the block and use the stem to take a depth measurement.