Sam Buchanan

They've come a lot farther than that, the 2.7L V6 in my F150 is rated at 335hp and 400 ft/lbs of torque. It returned 26 mpg on a recent trip to the mountains. But I sure do enjoy driving the 218 in my P15 (all 95 angry hp!).

I was fortunate to find a P15 that received engine overhaul, paint and interior in the '80's. Saved me thousands of $$$$'s, and good argument for buying a nice car up front and getting the benefit of other people having spent their dollars. Took me a good part of a year to achieve a reliable driver but at least I started out with good bones.

Not aware of a tutorial, just ask questions here. Here is the wiring diagram for the Signal Stat switch. You will need adapters so you can put double filament bulbs in the tail and parking lights for signals/brake and tail/parking light functions. https://www.ebay.com/itm/204115645209?hash=item2f863d9319:g:vk4AAOSwQWxivy4-&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsHiAA1J4r%2BfzQx8i%2FRxIewXHvSsV7YEtHQNqug2hFvZ7K%2BI4Y%2FjfWdUccSLgslQod1mumsrDQ5zx8goJwOats7aZCrv422%2Fnm6Nyg484Jhvcox%2FjV9zY7X%2BhHGKoYe4ChdqTjVQwBTnuJP3seoCBSwlWPmFGVw28YcQqHMJXQxn5uChRPuV8CY%2FCj7L3iUM8vX77Qtb3Rb2teEns6iuBrNT%2B5M5TDKoEY7%2FbZtHkJtXL|tkp%3ABk9SR4ril-6FYQ

The Signal Stat is a good option if you don't need self-cancelling. At the very least it would get you through inspection. Here is how I connected mine to the car's harness. I think it looks right at home on the column even though it isn't stock.

Make sure there isn't a vacuum leak to the distributor advance and/or the advance unit hasn't failed. Could also be something going on with the centrifugal advance in the distributor.

I suspect you are going to be shortening or notching the cylinder pins as necessary.

https://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/

Wiring diagram shows four connections, two to the sender, one to the ignition switch plus a brown wire.

This from the 'Whatever It's Worth' department... I think some of the confusion about aftermarket fuel tank fittings is due to the similarity between a flare brake line fitting and a 1/4" NPT fitting. Here they are side-by-side: The NPT fitting on the right is about 0.020" larger and the thread pitch is *slightly* different from the flare fitting. The NPT fitting won't fit in a female flare bung but the male flare fitting will thread some distance into a 1/4" NPT female fitting before the threads develop an interference fit. The NPT fitting tapered so it tightens properly but the flare fitting is not tapered. I suspect....but can't say definitely.....that there are aftermarket tanks out there where someone has screwed a flare fitting in a female NPT bung on the tank. Yes, it will get tight if you are lucky but it is due to the threads of the fitting not matching the threads of the bung. My advise for anyone who purchases a MoparPro tank to try a 1/4" NPT fitting first. If it screws in and tightens after a few turns, then back it out, dope it, and put it back in until it is tight. The NPT fitting does not need the little ferrule that was in the original tank.

Wonder if a couple more test drives would be in order before you start taking stuff apart. Oops....Los Control just beat me to it.

Since you stated you've done research on the forum you have probably already seen the Wilwood conversion in my P15. No servicing through the floor and easy access to reservoirs on the firewall. I don't know if your Chrysler master cylinder setup is similar to the Plymouth.

If the threads have been compromised sealant would probably be the best option. Teflon tape is just a lubricant that allows good threads to be fully torqued.

Make sure it is a NPT tap! If you use the wrong tap it will destroy the taper of the threads. I would try installing the fitting before you resort to a tap. It could be that once you get the fitting started it will thread in and tighten nicely. Some sealant on the threads is a good idea.

Use a 1/4" NPT fitting with a barb in the tank, then a short length of 5/16" rubber hose, then a filter, then another length of hose to connect to your new fuel line. The NPT fitting does not need the little ferrule that was in the original tank.

Are you sure it was coolant and not fuel? It is common for fuel to accumulate in the intake manifold when it boils out of the carb after shutting down a hot engine. This is why hot starts can be tricky.

Your tank has a 1/4" NPT thread. I hope you didn't ruin the threads when you forced the original fitting into the tank.........

There is also a truck specific side of this forum, you might get more hits there.

Just as a data point, the Facet electric pump on my airplane will push fuel through the mechanical pump which is the same type of pump as used on our flatheads. There are check valves in the mechanical pump but apparently the electric pump supplies enough pressure to force fuel past the check valves. There is a fuel pressure port between the mechanical pump and carb and I've never seen an instance where the electric pump didn't boost pressure prior to engine start. But this is a moot point on my P15, I removed the mechanical pump and run an electric pump fulltime.......just like nearly every vehicle on the road today.

I don't think I want water in the plug wells on my car.........

I've been running the same Facet pump as a boost in the airplane for 23 years. They are also used on many British cars....well, maybe that isn't a very good endorsement...... ? I use a 6v Carter on my P15, it has been reliable.

That tank was never going to work, you made a good decision!

Yes...and it comes with an alternator! ?

It's good practice to incorporate both ears of the original bracket. This reduces twisting load on both the alternator and bracket. The belt is trying to twist the alternator and could eventually fail either one if not properly supported. A single length of steel tubing between the rear alternator ear and the bracket could be used as a spacer on a long bolt instead of the collection of nuts. But this looks like a good solution.

Yes, something similar has been my plan next time I need to make an adjustment. Thinking I'll put a bushing on the bolt, drill out the arm for the bushing, then seal and tighten the bolt and let the arm 'float' on the bushing. The bottom bracket is what keeps the alternator aligned properly.

Update: I noticed in the photo of my alternator installation I wrote the belt info I used on the alternator......maybe that will be useful.