Sam Buchanan

https://www.amazon.com/1946-1954-Plymouth-Repair-Manual-Reprint/dp/B00435KT6S/ref=sr_1_4?crid=TD78W50NHFY4&keywords=1949+plymouth+service+manual&qid=1670617185&sprefix=1949+plymouth+service+manual%2Caps%2C94&sr=8-4

For whatever it is worth.....direct quote from the service manual: "If the pressure plate is scored or warped, it should be replaced." That is a very ugly pressure plate......

I need to check my policy but quite sure it doesn't include 200 miles of towing like my AAA membership.

A fuse for the headlight switch and a spare taillight/brake bulb in case the local auto parts store can't find a 6v bulb. Oh...the most important item......a AAA card with towing options., that's your "get out of jail free" card! Enjoy your trip!

Yes. I didn't realize the high tension wire was a part of this discussion, I thought it was a given that it went from the coil to the distributor. Also, "to ground the points" is a misnomer since the points are grounded via the mechanical attachment of the distributor to the engine block. When the points close, they connect the coil to ground. When they open an impulse is released from the coil through the high tension cable to the distributor cap and to the plugs via the rotor. Yes, a gross simplification, but maybe this is helpful.....

There should only be one wire connecting the distributor to the coil. The distributor is grounded via the engine block, just connect battery + to engine ground and you are good to go. Battery neg to coil neg, battery + to engine ground, coil + to distributor. That's it.

Connect the positive terminal of the battery to engine ground.

Sawzall (or similar reciprocating saw) with a metal-cutting blade? If you can get the blade on the dowels they will be history in a few seconds.

If I was young enough I probably would be messing with some sort of Japanese abomination instead of an old Mopar....... ?

I would have used the "clutch pedal" technique but don't have a helper and couldn't figure out a way to configure my limbs to where two hands were working the tranny while a foot was mashing the pedal......maybe I'm not creative (or flexible) enough! ?

I couldn’t find the alignment tool anywhere locally, seems to be a legacy spline. I left the pressure plate bolts loose enough to use the eyecrometer to get the disc aligned as close as I could. With the disc “floating” in the slack pressure plate I slid the tranny into place on the guide pins. Some wigglin’ and jigglin’ and it eventually slid home. The pressure plate bolts were then torqued.

I run AdBlock on my PC and don't see any ads in the forum. This is an extension in the Chrome browser. You can also install Ghostery which kills many of the trackers that advertisers use to target ads.

Here are two threads on the mounts you might find interesting, the first one is a thread I started. https://p15-d24.com/topic/50844-engine-mounts-p15-caution/ And the second one: This is a case where aftermarket parts may not be exact replacements.....I suspect you have some experience with this.....

Check the front motor mount to see if it looks correct, if not the tranny may be tilted up. That is quite the project!

Then I have to wonder if the gear selector shaft is installed correctly in the gearshift housing, I just can't see how the linkage would work with the arm oriented the way it is in your photo. From what I can see in your photo the trans mounts look correct if they are resting on the frame crossmember. The photo I attached previously shows the mounts I installed if you look closely. I don't envy you assembling this car that was taken apart by someone else.....I have a hard enough time putting mine back together after I have slept a night or two! ?

Once you determine the rear end ratio you can calculate rpm with a calculator like this one: https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator

Here is the proper orientation of the shift arms on my '48 when in neutral (wish mine was as clean as yours!): You must get a manual! https://www.amazon.com/1946-1954-Plymouth-Repair-Manual-Reprint/dp/B00435KT6S/ref=sr_1_4?crid=MA5FQLPNKZ4Q&keywords=manual+1948+plymouth&qid=1669730697&sprefix=manual+1948+plymoth%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-4

When I removed the flywheel for refacing, the oil pan and rear crank journal cap had to be removed so the studs could be pushed forward and removed so the flywheel could be dropped from the bellhousing. There was no other way to accomplish this on my 218. Yes, installing the flywheel is a bit of grunt work but I found the trick was to position a stud at the bottom of the crank flange so the flywheel could be hung on it until slipped fully into place on the crank flange. The nut was then started on the stud to prevent the flywheel from falling. Then it was just a simple matter of rotating the crank (remove the spark plugs!) until each remaining stud could be inserted at the "bottom" of the flange. As mentioned above, be absolutely positive the flat on the head of the stud inserts properly on the flange.

I found it interesting how a running valve that is properly set will "suck" the feeler gauge into the gap.

This is not as demanding a task as you fear....you won't even have to sit inside the fender to do this......almost cheating. Gloves are ok, but regular mechanic's gloves will do, welder's gloves would really be awkward. I used the set of gauges that have been in my toolbox forever, nothing special needed.

Maybe a bypass port that indicates a defective diaphragm? Might be discharging fuel instead of dumping it in the crankcase.

Rich, most likely it wasn't a problem on your end. What often happens in these cases is somebody who has a computer with your address in their address book was stricken by a virus and it is sending spam to the addresses on that computer. The attachment in the emails might install the same virus on anyone's computer who opens the email....so don't open it!

Mine does.

With a new tank it should be a long time before you need to change a filter. When that time comes draining the tank would be a bonus so any particulate could be washed out.

Your new tank most likely has 1/4" NPT threads, that is why your filter will thread into it. You can either use the filter to connect the fuel line to the tank as you suggested or get a 1/4" NPT fitting with a barb, cut the flare fitting off the fuel line and connect the two with a short length of fuel hose. My car uses 5/16" fuel line, verify the OD of the fuel line on your car prior to buying the fitting and hose.