Bryan
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Everything posted by Bryan
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To me points are better. You just have to maintain the gap and keep the contacts clean, which isn't that often. We're not pulling such high RPMs that they float. About the only thing electronic is the condenser. It's what I'm trying to get away from in my experience with 92 Dakota and other vehicles. Perfectly good motors but some sensor causes the problem.
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Got to go to bed, on east coast. If you are trying to pull the whole front end off..the side panels on each side of the engine must be removed to get to the rear vertical bolts for the fenders. But I'm speaking of a 48 Dodge.
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Oops...and the chrome piece has an extra bolt in front.
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On a Dodge D24 Since I was afraid to pull the whole hood off in one piece, I took the halves loose (bolts along the center with each half raised). Then you take the 2 off in the very back and 2 in front..The middle chrome piece slides backwards and each hood half slides forward individually. Don't know if Plymouth is the same.
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After a local area famous paint shop in South Carolina was quoting me $10-15K to paint my car, decided to do most myself. I've read a BUNCH of your (and others) 2009-2010 posts about using Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer rolled or reduced/sprayed on cars, as long as you wait 2-3 weeks for it to cure. Also the 8-4-1 mixed Rustoleum gloss enamels sprayed on as a topcoat. Was wondering after 11 years how some of your painting has held up? Would you change anything?
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Same with my 48..guy was running pure water and busted the block in Winter. They put in a new 1949 Plymouth motor.
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Keep us informed and please take plenty of pics. I'm about at the same stage but motor is still in. Had to stop due to planned eye surgery.
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I wonder if D is or dashpot? Mine is a BXVD-3
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You must have one heckuva garage and tools. It sounds like changing R&P is as casual as changing socks. I did one on a 92 Dodge Dakota about a year ago. Was a pain, would NOT want to do that very often. Biggest issue was getting the crush sleeve to compact (had to use a floor jack), setting pinion load in inch/lbs and getting the depth correct.
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Does drive shaft need to be balanced after installing U-joints?
Bryan replied to MarcDeSoto's topic in P15-D24 Forum
That's a good idea. You can run into real problems with stuff that's supposed to be a 1 hr job. I had to grind the end off of one old joint to get it out. -
Does drive shaft need to be balanced after installing U-joints?
Bryan replied to MarcDeSoto's topic in P15-D24 Forum
There are great Youtube videos on how to do it right. Whether the Ujoint gets off center depends on the type. Some with the grooves can't, other types can. One thing is don't warp the holder ends while beating the joint out..check across the holders with a parallel bar. Also wrap around the joint with tape when you get the new one together to keeps the caps from falling off..the needle bearings would be a pain to get back in.
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Does drive shaft need to be balanced after installing U-joints?
Bryan replied to MarcDeSoto's topic in P15-D24 Forum
On my 92 Dakota truck they took it off to straighten and balance it. That was after I checked runout with a jack, chalk and dial gauge and thought it was too much. They spot heat and cool it to straighten it.. Didn't cost much.
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FINALLY - My 1948 B-1-D Build Thread, 33 Years Later
Bryan replied to billrigsby's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
That's for heating the dual carb intake manifold with dual exhaust headers..? Just kidding. -
Carburetor / Pump / Filter Questions
Bryan replied to billrigsby's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Reckon I have a Stromberg also? I'm learning, thought BB was Carter. But it has Stromberg on the float casing. and 1BXVD at bottom.
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These are great. Chrysler Master Tech videos from 1940s - oiling
Bryan replied to Bryan's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I did some screen shots to condense all the talking into some pictures of important details.
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No, this guy based on the measurements of the lock pins (taken out and kept in order) would make a new key .
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The guy doesn't exist on ebay anymore... try searching with words -> "keys cut to code vintage autos"
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Did some work a long time ago. Guy on Ebay.. Let me post this first and see if I can find email or link for him. Pictures are out of order. Dang.
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Ran across this site that shows different color amounts to get a specific Dodge color 1948 Dodge (autocolorlibrary.com)
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Goes into small details, more than some manuals. You might think it's hokey but wow! Chrysler Master Tech - 1948, Volume 2-3 The Engine Oiling System - YouTube
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After looking at this post still trying to figure out what carb I have. One place has BB 382884, bowl area says Stromberg, bottom has BXVD.
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Maybe this would help...towards the end. MTSC - 1951, Volume 4-7 Automobile Radio Service - YouTube
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Are you running the old radiator? At the jalopy journal site they were mentioning popping the radiators, not the pump.. Also, what's your opinion on 195F thermostat? Rock Auto has them listed for 49 Plymouth motors..
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You might be correct. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/14-16-psi-radiator-caps-on-old-radiators.300025/
