Bryan

https://www.kanter.com/ecatalog/00048.html

I would determine what your goals/funds are and then do in stages. If you are not going to compete in shows or not worried about resale value and want more power then a swap might be better/cheaper. Go look at the price of overhaul kits for the present engine vs a 60-70s engine. If you keep the present engine, would overhaul first, drive around and get the feel of it, if you get bored after a while then add dual headers and multi carbs, high energy ignition. If you get bored with that and have the funds then add a turbo, but don't expect the overhaul to last very long. Lower end crankshaft/mains strength and old piston designs probably aren't suited for a turbo. Do things in stages to have something to compare against.

Quick question - did you or anyone else notice how far piston heads in these engines come up to the top of the bore? Are they flush?

1.58 mm equals 1/16" . They must have got to thinking too much and figured 1.5 mm. I was wondering about the mm/inches mix. Do piston rings come like that?

So I reckon nobody would do anything like this either. Had a fleeting fancy about a pre-oiler that one could flip on before starting the engine. When one gets bored after doing everything else and has money oozing out his ears... look about 3/4 down the site. https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm

Current condition is not running because of a knocking low end bearing. That's why I kept it parked for the last few years while I was out of country. Never raced it and not planning to. Just thought instead of making wild mods I would increase the oil pressure slightly when I get it overhauled. Dave Pollock -> "It is also prudent to install a new rotor type pump. Putting a 1/4" spacer behind the relief valve spring gives an additional boost in oil pressure. With these modifications, the oil pressure gauge will show about 40 lb at idle and between 60 and 70 lb at 30 mph. If your block has a full-flow filter as later Chrysler and DeSoto blocks (to 1954) do, great! If it has the bypass type, make sure it is correctly hooked up. The drain goes from the bottom of the canister through the pressure relief valve (hole faces straight up). Be satisfied that it is not reducing pressure."

I've read so many posts on oiling I'm about blind. Decided I'm not going to a full flow system, or closing squirt holes, or enlarging the channel in the lower bearings. Thinking of placing a 1/4" shim or thinner washer behind the bypass relief spring to increase the oil pressure, and maybe having the crank cross drilled. After a future overhaul planning to use 10-30W normal oil for break in and then switching to synthetic oil with 5K change intervals. Comments?

I didn't realize that these dual headers would interfere with the original fuel pump.

Did you have an original piece like the dash that you're comparing it against? Looks like it will work well. Think I heard in the video you're putting a clear coat on it later?

Watch out for dirt and debris in the fuel line if you have not cleaned the tank or replaced rusty lines. Also on 1948 Dodges there is a heat shield between fuel pump and exhaust manifold. 48's will stall sometime if they get hot. See how close the fuel line is to the exhaust.

What's a good source of premixed P-acid? Also I have the car in a cement floor garage about 18" off the ground. Guess I'll need my chainsaw face shield.

What would the phosphoric acid do to the remaining paint underneath? Or do you mean to just use it on the pure rust areas? BJ

Going to replace brake & fuel lines. Already bought a new gas tank.

Was wondering what are some methods people have used for rust underneath their rides? The front end parts (engine compartment side panels, radiator shrouds, mud deflectors) I'm taking off and having sand blasted when I go to remove the engine for overhauling. But I have partial starting rust "specks" underneath on the floor, main frame sections with partial rust, and a few frame members and suspension parts that are fully rusted. The fully rusted parts I was thinking about Rustoleum's Rust Converter after removing loose rust. I just want something that will hold and not have rust coming back in 2 years. Any experience suggestions from members?

About how much is the overhaul expected to cost? Wanting to do mine within a year.

Hate to ask dumb questions but why not replace the valve guides instead of reaming and lining? About to have my engine overhauled by a shop, and I'm trying to learn what to look for.

I'll try pulling a plug and measuring the stroke...thanks! It has Fluid Drive.

Finally got my 48 Dodge home after sitting in my father's barn for 10 years. Has original upholstery in great shape, light surface rust and some rust underneath. Working on rust areas to keep it from getting worse. Questions I have, block has P18 star 206805 star on side. Head # is 1311810-5 with a large "P" above it. Read in "Reference" tab that they used Plymouth blocks to replace cracked or damaged blocks. So is my engine a 218 or a 230? Think they just switched blocks? Original registration card had motor # 610286. Also can't find a paint number on the car.

Doctor - where did you get the quarts-halogen 6V lights? Did they fir in the same plug? BJ