Bryan

Yep, seems like the walls all the way around are thin, just like the thin side of mine. All okay, just the guy telling me it was NOS and made that way back then irks me. Probably made in India and they got a bunch of them off center

Maybe these.. 1948 DeSoto Deluxe Pictures - Pics for used 1948 DeSoto Deluxe (cargurus.com) 1948 DESOTO CUSTOM CLUB COUPE 6 CYLINDER for sale: photos, technical specifications, description (classiccardb.com) https://www.oldride.com/classic_cars/852097/1948_desoto_deluxe.html#4 Seems like rear has 5 buttons on back, 2 on bottom seat. OOps - 3 window coupe...haven't had my coffee yet.

Thanks..feel a lot better about it. Thought I was getting screwed over by a lemon part.. I measured the outside of the fitting. Was 1 21/64", the same as some freeze plugs. Again, thanks..

Do you think these are NOS or made recently? Just surprised me..all of the other parts to their PCV system look newly made from modern fittings.

Bought a PCV valve adapter from Vintage Power Wagon for $$$, received it, but one part looks machined wrong (off center). Has anyone else bought one of these and do you have a picture of what it looks like? See attached.

On the subject of water distribution tubes. I just bought a stainless steel tube. Does anybody know if it's supposed to be tapered towards the rear? Anybody with an original or NOS please chime in.

Which R10 ODs actually fit a D24 1948 Dodge? When you look at Ebay there are R10 b R10k etc. Hooked up to Fords, Mercurys, etc..

So far I have a stainless water distribution tube, a water pump (Rock Auto), carb kit, PCV valve setup from Vintage power Wagons, front engine mount, lower radiator hose, freeze plugs, got a new gas tank a couple of years ago. Some things I need to check like the brake wheel cylinders. .I know my rear differential seal leaks..

Will probably pull my engine in a few weeks. It had a knock back in the 90s, I was overseas and never got to it til now. Anyway, when you pull an engine with the transmission, what parts do you suggest always replacing? I have to wait to see condition/size of pistons, rings, bearings etc.. but if it was never overhauled and has 90K on it...always replace the oil pump? Anything else in the drive line?

And I forgot to mention but maybe the pictures show it...the red wire to the headlights is dark red with white (or yellow) dashes. The red wire from the terminal strip is a light red color with dark red dashes. One thing I noticed on schematics..if it has turn signals there is an extra wire to the park lights. I might add a wire to the park lights and cap it off when I replace all the wiring.

On mine it does..just giving a suggestion. Don't know what yours looks like. On my Dodge it wasn't obvious. ?

D24 Dodge: My fenders have bolts along the inside under the chrome. The hood middle strip pulls out the back after you take bolts on each end off. You have to take the hood off first. The rocker chrome had two bolts up front from the inside of the fender. The rest of the rock chrome I had to pry gently from the bottom with a plastic knife, and pry it upwards. Look at my build pictures.

On both passenger & driver side headlights the "passenger" terminal on the headlight plugs go to the center terminal on the strip. The "Drive" terminal on the headlight plugs go to the rear terminal on the strip. Ground wire on the headlight plug goes to the headlight rim. The park light yellow wires go to the front terminal on the strip. Green horn wire goes with the others towards firewall.

So now that my 2 week wait after eye surgery and a week of having a cold is finished tried working on my D24 again. Only worked 3 hrs, still weak. At least I stripped the rubber cover off of headlight , park and horn wiring to see the original colors. This car has never been touched. What I found that might be interesting: The wire to the park and head lights is covered in rubber tubing, not electrical tape. When it cracks it does so in a spiral and looks like tape, it's not. The wires from the terminal on the front vertical pan near the driver side headlight going towards the firewall ARE covered in electrical tape. Once cut it would unwind. The black wire to the headlights has one row of dashes, but the black wire to the firewall has two rows (see pictures). Horn wiring is green with 3 rows of dashes. The front pan, cowl etc has some kind of tar paper or thin rubber separating the pieces.

Same reason I bought all the floor pans for my 1958 Dodge even though it will be a few years before I can get to it. Only one supplier and prices keep going up.

Only link I have is SMS. Would coordinate with them to find out how to approximate amount you need or ask an upholsterer. Probably a lot of wastage given seat shapes and panels. I had to use mothballs to keep mice and moths out of my car. Mothballs will give you a headache from the fumes..be careful. If you store wool for a while I would get maybe a long sealed container maybe somewhere temp controlled. Had old clothes in an outside storage shed (water tight but no temp control) that molded after a few years.

Yep, getting all tool and metal floor pan ads. Was looking on Ebay. What I hate are TV ads..don't need to see someone popping a zit.

Maybe measure cylinder compression on all six? The pistons are what produce the vacuum..

Solve it like a standard problem..first have an eye exam and eliminate that, especially if you're over 50. If no cataracts then think about a solution for the car. If you are rarely out at night, wouldn't spend a lot of money changing the car. If you need to go out more often at night with it, go with the simplest solution first.

If you have cataracts you can't hardly see at night. Before I had mine done I was bumping curbs turning at intersections at night with my newer Toyota. If during the day inside whites look dingy, and when you look at ceiling lights it appears foggy around the lights, you probably have cataracts.

Couldn't find it on Youtube but found something else (that I already had - duh) that would be helpful.

Might just be misunderstanding...I had to go back and look myself..

I've messed with a few of modules like these at my house..stepping up 12V to 19V to run a laptop off of a car battery. Amazon has 6V to 12V converters for various amps. Wonder how something like these would do for each device? Chrysler1941 - it's not 100% obvious from the title but he is talking about fans also. Amazon.com : step up circuit 6v 12v

I can't imagine if some of the little air inlets were stopped up it would run leaner...if this tube has an o-ring sealing the tube check it. Check if the main jet (or this tube) is stopped up. Idle jets and idle mixture shouldn't affect mid & upper ranges (at least on moped carbs). My dealing with moped carburetors - low float level will make them run lean.. BUT I have seen carburetors with a stopped up air filter on a moped run fine til it reached higher rpm then it would stumble - too rich. But since in the past you had to pull the choke to run good, probably being too lean is affecting it. Do the standard spray around shafts & base to check for air leaks.

Carburetor Emulsion Tube - Why it is needed - How it works - What they do? - YouTube