Bryan

And a slight pisser..the ignition key that I bought on Ebay is not the same profile as my door lock. Won't even fit the door lock without pins in it. According to ILCO lock site, 1199B and 1199G were supposed to be the same profile. Guess the ignition is something else. Edit: Found the correct profiles: 1199B & 1199G are different

Figured out what was wrong. The new lock cylinder I bought had the tab end broke off. I switched it with my old tab, ignition switch works. But I still don't know how the tab & contact interact. New tab with top broke off. Old tab

Anyone know how the inside of the ignition switch works? I see a brass tab, but don't know how it works with the new lock cylinder.

Here's the theory behind it.. https://www.kwikset.com/customer-support/how-to-center/rekey-instructions-pin-and-tumbler.aspx

More on the lost keys saga - Well, after playing with my ignition lock and taking it apart, I decided to take a door lock apart. Have viewed a few YouTube videos concerning re-keying locks. I didn't want to pay $ 190 - 240 on Ebay buying an ignition and door lock set. So I bought a $ 17 ignition lock and key, and will attempt to re-key the door locks to match the ignition. Took the driver door lock off, cleaned it up, noted position of shaft. End of the shaft looks like a Superman emblem, so I noted the top of the "emblem" lines up with the long metal rectangle on the lock. The shaft is held on by a tab on the end of the lock. You have to drive it out from the bottom with a very small punch or screwdriver. Tried to pick the lock and was unsuccessful (I picked the old ignition lock). Maybe a pin was stuck or just a bad day. I remembered about the metal rectangle cover from a video, so i took a jewelers screwdriver and banged it in the thin seam, and carefully pried the cover up. Then I removed the springs, and CAREFUL NOT TO TURN IT UPSIDE DOWN. If you do, the pins fall out and they roll forever on the floor. I put my thumb over the holes, only exposing one pin at a time, and rapped on the side until the pin fell out. Then I set each it order on the table, one at a time. The upper pins might not be so important, they look the same size, but wasn't sure. Sometimes a lower pin tries to fall out, if it does, place it in the same position on the table, across from the upper pin. From video I saw, if you're matching to a new key, the order doesn't matter, but I'm overly careful. I embedded the pins in cardboard..for the old ignition lock I bumped the table, and pins went all over the place. I was more careful with this door lock. Another day I'll have to remove the stainless steel face, to be able to pull the core out. Supposedly from videos I've watched, when I get the new ignition key & lock, I can insert the key in the door lock, and arrange (several times) the different height pins until they are flush with the body, so the key will turn.

Called the only one in town..he had never done an older car lock. Rate was $30 an hour.

Maybe if you could find a plastic food dish of correct dimensions, cut center out, and find some kind of decal for graduated marks. Just guessing. https://www.redbubble.com/people/cescia-jean/works/26177960-neon-car-speedometer?grid_pos=4&p=sticker&rbs=90553fe3-6bf2-438b-a1bc-e6487e09759b&ref=shop_grid

Open pictures with Microsoft paint and resize them to 60%, save them on computer with "original name - small"

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-Circle-Cutter-Attachment-3-4-in-to-12-in-Diameter-678-01/202713389?keyword=dremel+hole+cutter Used this before..can only cut a circle once since it uses a nail in the center of the material as a guide. Works great and is cheap.

Don't know what this is...cheap.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1930s-1940s-Dodge-Floating-Power-Speedometer-Cluster-0-100-MPH/112639351427?hash=item1a39d41a83:g:g9QAAOSw6VRZ9oDo

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1939-Plymouth-Instrument-Panel-with-Speedometer-Gauges-P7-P8-Rare-OEM-MoPaR/112623362425?fits=Year%3A1939|Make%3APlymouth&hash=item1a38e02179:g:TiAAAOSwCZ5Vfxrr This is listed as 1939 Plymouth

Maybe try repair first? If you could take it apart and scrape the old numbers off, then maybe get some stick ons from Michael's Crafts then clear coat over them. Re-attach the speedometer. Then clean and paint the framing around the gauges. If it's in that bad of shape you couldn't make it worse.

Restrictions usually increase air speed and vacuum at that point. Unless there is some kind of vacuum port coming into the manifold there, you wouldn't think it would cause a problem taking it out. Not really sure.

Brother and I got it open, had to use force. Haven't found any key code on the cylinder yet.

Trying to take the ignition lock cylinder apart on my 1948 Dodge. Noticed that Rock Auto has ignition lock cylinders with keys from 1949 up. Has anyone tried a later lock cylinder in the 1948 switch? More progress. Normally you have to pick the lock if you don't have the key. The little brass pin won't let the lock turn, and you have to turn it to press it down. We drove it forward and out. Then I had to pick the lock anyway to take it apart. It has a clip at the end near the ignition terminal, you have to pull that out. Still the cylinder won't slide out. I finally picked the lock, and it turned. Don't turn it but 90 degrees clockwise, and don't pull it out all at once. It has pins on the top AND bottom. Keep the top ones from falling out (they are different lengths). As you pull the cylinder out little by little, expose the bottom pins in the outer sleeve (pins are spring loaded). As they fall out (one at a time) put them in order on the table. Don't know what I'll do now...still no code printed on the lock parts.

Probably then go with a 318 V8. Haven't swapped any engines but people here have a lot of experience with engine, trans and rear end swaps. Maybe edit the title of the post as a question, "Best engine/trans/rear end swap for my 55 car?"

Pre-70s slant six or 318 V8 if you're going to switch. Otherwise I'd keep it original. How far? How often will you actually be driving? Gas economy an issue?

Thanks..been so long had forgotten.

Can't find the keys after 10 years...took the ignition switch off to remove cylinder. The brass pin won't come out unless I pick the lock, since I don't have keys. Sitting here at the kitchen table trying to pick the lock. Hell, I don't even know which way it turns to keep pressure on it.

I'm taking the whole front end off (in case I drop the motor while pulling it). I'll have the inner panels, radiator shroud, etc sand/media blasted and I'll prime and paint them myself. Will paint the exposed frame also. All of the parts (air cleaner, starter, etc) painted also. Might hunt down some metals tags. Will install new wiring under the hood with replica type. And paint the engine after the overhaul.

Was sitting in a barn most of the time. My father bought it, drove in parades mostly. Then he parked it and I bought it. Unfortunately I was overseas (Corps of engineers) between 1984 and 2014. I bought it probably around 2000, but still couldn't do much with it, so it sat in Pop's barn. He died 2013 and I finally retired and came back July 2014. Had the car hauled to my house last month. Needs exhaust, brakes, fuel lines replaced and the engine knocks.

Was practicing on one of the damaged dash knobs (the kid with the lighter), since I have ordered 2 knobs already. 320 & 2000 grit sandpaper and wet sanding works well. The lettering is pretty deep, but I still went a little overboard. Edit -> I showed my wife the pictures. She said an engraving place for trophies probably has a machine that engraves letters. Heck you could probably polish all the letters off, have them engrave more, fill the lettering with paint. Anyway, a less damaged knob could be polished and look nice.

I'll stick to stock pistons and a pre-oiler, do the cam bearing thing, and have the engine balanced. Didn't want to stir stuff up. I would think what people want to do with their engines would be based on available time, funds and usage. I like to overdo stuff but have to step back and really think (after hearing other opinions).

Look at the 3rd pic. Replacing the horn emblem (already bought). PO left his kid in there back in the 60s. Must have seen how to use the cigarette lighter. Would have worn his a..s out.

Was working on my door lock and decided to take pics. A few moth holes but all original. From the door post in 1st pic, does anyone know what the color is? I have seen posted color charts, but over the computer screen they come out too dark.